Anyone made a stock skid couple?
- Thread starter roni87
- Start date
IMO, trying to make the stock skid couple with a solid block is asking for a tunnel failure. It wasn't designed to operate that way and the geometry of the skid, like mentioned earlier, will mos likely have a binding issue. Also Polaris made this sled with weight savings in mind. The rear scissor arm may not support the load. My mt. Tamer had a 330 lbs rear spring and a 125 front. The load is GREATLY increased on the rear arm when you couple a skid, ie when it "pulls the skis down" really it's forcing the front of the skid up and supporting the whole sled on the rear of the skid. This in turn allows gravity to overcome the tortion of the track and the front falls down. If your going to couple a stock skid please use something like the arc system that isn't a solid block, or a mt. Tamer back arm kit. That allows for a parallel of the two arms and also some slop for free movement.
If your on a budget you can't afford a toast tunnel or broken skid. Your BEST option being budget minded and wanting handeling, IMO, is to have the stock shocks revalued and possibly a stiffer rear spring.
If your on a budget you can't afford a toast tunnel or broken skid. Your BEST option being budget minded and wanting handeling, IMO, is to have the stock shocks revalued and possibly a stiffer rear spring.
5
550iq
Well-known member
You are right on with your assessment M1FT. I went against the instructions and put the rear coupler blocks on a Holz coil-over rear skid kit (when they sold an Xtra-10 retrofit kit in 2000) and destroyed the rear scissor arm that came in the kit. It was not designed for this additional loading and I also suspect that the stock Pro scissor arm isn't either - same can be said for the stock ultra light-weight rails.
I purchased the Timbersled "fit kit" for my SB Assault and it is the cat's meow.
There is a lot more going on here folks than just limiter blocks thrown on a sled's skid.
550iq
I purchased the Timbersled "fit kit" for my SB Assault and it is the cat's meow.
There is a lot more going on here folks than just limiter blocks thrown on a sled's skid.
550iq
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Truly the most unique product that has come to the aftermarket that will be perfect for what you are trying to do.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348741
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=348741
great thread
i like the thinking outside the box but its way too much money
maybe i'm wrong wouldn't be the first time
let it snow
i like the thinking outside the box but its way too much money
maybe i'm wrong wouldn't be the first time
let it snow
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C
CDK
Well-known member
Can you elaborate on this "fit kit" for a SBA? I haven't seen or heard of this yet......does Timbersled have details anywhere?
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I agree and have one on order to try out. I spoke with the guy who designed it at length about how it works in all different ways, how they addressed issues that I saw with my experiences with the stock, mt. Tamer, k-mod, and cr skid; and potentials with attempting to mix them. One point that stood out for me as to why this is much different than just a coupling block, in relation to load on the rear of the skid and tunnel, was that at no point in the skids travel will it ever shock load the system. It couples at a variable progressive rate due to speed and shock set up. So where a traditional coupled skid at 80% coupling will allow the two arms to work independent for 20% of the travel, then it slams into the stop, sending all the load instantly through the read arm and tunnel, and fully couples the two arms for the last 80% of travel.
This system doesn't slam anything. It slows and stops the movement allowing a truly progressive coupling that WITHOUT ANY extra bracing didn't wrinkle any tunnels during testing.
When you buy a quality product that is fully tested and built in our country you aren't just paying for materials. There was a LOT of r&d time in this design.great thread
i like the thinking outside the box but its way too much money
i would think there is some serious profit in that kit
maybe i'm wrong wouldn't be the first time
let it snow
''When you buy a quality product that is fully tested and built in our country you aren't just paying for materials. There was a LOT of r&d time in this design''
agreed
point well made i edited my post because i didn't
explain my self well
i still think its expencive for the components your getting
my 2 cents
let us know how it performs
agreed
point well made i edited my post because i didn't
explain my self well
i still think its expencive for the components your getting
my 2 cents
let us know how it performs
I plan on nit-picking the $h!t out of i and doing a full write up on if it's the improvement it potentially could be.
The next step (in the backyard)
Ok, time to bring this back into the light. The 2015 polaris news has my mind in a knot, so I need to have something else spinning in there.
I have thought about how to make a coupling system/keep the nose down on the stock suspension for a LONG time. Adjustable on the fly is a key element that I would REALLY like to keep.
My idea revolves around a linkage system. One that would link the movement of the front and rear arms so that the front arm dictates how far the rear scissor is allowed to collapse, before pulling the front arm in with it.
The key here will be PULLING force, not pushing/blocking. I believe this will allow the components to be lighter and still hold.
Last, adjustability should be electric, that's right. Toggle switch for more or less wheelie action!
Stay tuned for some pics and drawings!
Ok, time to bring this back into the light. The 2015 polaris news has my mind in a knot, so I need to have something else spinning in there.
I have thought about how to make a coupling system/keep the nose down on the stock suspension for a LONG time. Adjustable on the fly is a key element that I would REALLY like to keep.
My idea revolves around a linkage system. One that would link the movement of the front and rear arms so that the front arm dictates how far the rear scissor is allowed to collapse, before pulling the front arm in with it.
The key here will be PULLING force, not pushing/blocking. I believe this will allow the components to be lighter and still hold.
Last, adjustability should be electric, that's right. Toggle switch for more or less wheelie action!
Stay tuned for some pics and drawings!
Ok, time to bring this back into the light. The 2015 polaris news has my mind in a knot, so I need to have something else spinning in there.
I have thought about how to make a coupling system/keep the nose down on the stock suspension for a LONG time. Adjustable on the fly is a key element that I would REALLY like to keep.
My idea revolves around a linkage system. One that would link the movement of the front and rear arms so that the front arm dictates how far the rear scissor is allowed to collapse, before pulling the front arm in with it.
The key here will be PULLING force, not pushing/blocking. I believe this will allow the components to be lighter and still hold.
Last, adjustability should be electric, that's right. Toggle switch for more or less wheelie action!
Stay tuned for some pics and drawings!
Look forward to see what you come up with ?
I wonder if they've seen this basic kit from KMOD.
http://www.kmodsnowmobileparts.com/polaris/polaris-conversion-package
http://www.kmodsnowmobileparts.com/polaris/polaris-conversion-package
I remember seeing a post about a "poor man's Kmod". It used an old limiter strap to control how far the rear arm could scissor down... I'll see if I can find it.
Edit: FOUND IT! http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376092 Bout halfway down the post
Edit: FOUND IT! http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376092 Bout halfway down the post
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If I remember correctly, it was Scott that posted that. Should be an easy search. It was not this thread but another where he had installed the adjustable limiter strap up front and had moved the stock one to the rear scissor.
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I think Scott's idea for a limiter strap on this thread could be a cheap alternative... http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376092
Here is the original thread on it I think... I'm not a member so I cant see the exact text http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3512952#post3512952
Can always take it out easily if you want more lift to play around with, then re install for climbing.
Here is the original thread on it I think... I'm not a member so I cant see the exact text http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3512952#post3512952
Can always take it out easily if you want more lift to play around with, then re install for climbing.
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