Anyone changed out the track on '11 Assault 155"?

[rub1helland]

Hi guys! Have anyone of u out there changed the track on your Assault 155"?
The track I'm using right now looks like hell.., the original racing claw track, the original track. There is alot of lugs missing, and pieces teared off. I haven't ran over any rocks, bushes or anything "hard".
It's time du change it out.

Does anyone have any suggestion of which track to choose?
I've been looking at the Challenger Extreme 2.5. How high lugs are there room for in the tunel?

Hoping for some good answers for my questions
Best regards!

 

[Rick!]

Order a chaincase seal right now as you will probably damage it removing the driveshaft.

Just replacing a 2.4" series 5.1 track is a pain and it's hard to imagine installing a track that is .100" taller. Maybe if the chaincase is removed, you can save the seal and a lot of swearing when swapping tracks. But, the chaincase has to be rotated into position on the bottom end so maybe the footrest thingy would also need to be removed and possibly loosen the fender to allow more chaincase movement. There is also a stud plate on the top two rear flange positions that would need to be removed or pushed back. You can probably remove the plate after the suspension is out and letting the track hang on the driveshaft.

If you ride cratered and whooped out single track to the hills, you probably want to consider gluing the chaincase on during installation.

Good luck.

 

[tdblakes]

Not sure what Rick is talking about as far as pulling the chaincase and stuff... unless the 2.5 is really that tight in the tunnel, in which case why would you want to put it on...

Its not that tough to change your track, just remember there is an O-ring on the jack shaft when you take your brake rotor off. You'll need to roll that O-ring off before you can pull your chaincase cover.

Alot of people like the camo extreme 2.5". probably depends on the kind of riding you do but Camoplast Challengers have always been a good all around track I think.

 

[beamslayer]

I am also changing my track except I am going to the 5.1 poo track.I talked to Chris from Carls about the peak track and he said I would have to go to smaller drivers.
Mh mentioned poo is now glueing the inner primary to the bulk head can someone elaborate on this?What type of glue and what do you need to prep the surface.Is heat applied to remove inner primary off after glueing?
We ride with a guy with a finger track or should I say he waits for us on the trail.
Why did they make the peak a 154 instead of 155 and why go 2.5 instead of 2.4

 

[d8grandpa]

I have an 11 assualt snowchecked from last year. I put a ce 2.5 on before I even rode the sled. I have on 1500 miles and no issues. when you change out the track take off your complete chaincase, not just the cover. Its easy you can do complete change over in a couple hours. You may want to consider your drivers while you have your shaft out And if you change them get the unported track. If you need more info on change let me know.

 

[tdblakes]

I must be missing something. I know they glued the chaincase to the bulkhead for '12, but why are people having to remove the entire chaincase to swap a track? I've only done it by removing the drive shaft, swapping tracks, stuffing it in the tunnel as much as possible and reinstalling the drive shaft. never had to remove a chaincase to swap a track. It can be done in about an hour especially if you have a 2nd set of hands....

If you have to unglue and reglue the chaincase, i'd think about just letting the dealer do it... What kind of conditions does this adhesive need to properly cure again?

 

[Oregonsledder]

I must be missing something. I know they glued the chaincase to the bulkhead for '12, but why are people having to remove the entire chaincase to swap a track? I've only done it by removing the drive shaft, swapping tracks, stuffing it in the tunnel as much as possible and reinstalling the drive shaft. never had to remove a chaincase to swap a track. It can be done in about an hour especially if you have a 2nd set of hands....

If you have to unglue and reglue the chaincase, i'd think about just letting the dealer do it... What kind of conditions does this adhesive need to properly cure again?

I'm curious about this too. I have changed numerous tracks and never have had to do anything to the chaincase other than drain it and remove the cover, to get the gear off and the bearing and seal out. I would be surprised if the PRO was that much different??

 

[mountainhorse]

The Pro IS tighter and is a real "bear" to get the tracks in/out.

You will ruin the seal taking it out.. and you will need to be really careful when putting it back in.

Rick! is spot on with the chaincase procedure.. he's helped me out in the past as he's dont this plenty of times.

I'd really like to see Polaris come up with a drive shaft that has a center splined core that can be pulled out easily from an outer driveshaft that carries the drivers... that way it would make swapping tracks a breeze... Drain oil. Pull cover off chaincase... pull unbolt a flange with the the center shaft and pull that shaft out... the drivers and outer would then simply drop out of the sled. That would be worth a couple of lbs to me... Heck... I'd have a spring track and a deep snow track and it wouldnt take much time to change it out.

 

[d8grandpa]

the difference is the pro has a slot in the tunnel now where the drive shaft goes. If you take the chaincase off, which is easy only 6-8 small bolts the hole case will slid off. The upper bearing on the jackshaft is a little snug but if you wiggle it between top and bottom it slid right off just don't forget the o ring on the upper shaft. This way you don't have to remove or damage seals or bearings from the case, they slid right off with it. Once the case is off the shaft will drop right out, you don't need extra hands or fight with shaft and track together to get back in. With this new design the shaft is held in place by the chaincase, maybe that is why there is talk of it being glued now, might have been some failures in that area.
cheers and keep dancing for snow.

 

[mountainhorse]

ttt

 

[black swan]

I must be missing something. I know they glued the chaincase to the bulkhead for '12, but why are people having to remove the entire chaincase to swap a track? I've only done it by removing the drive shaft, swapping tracks, stuffing it in the tunnel as much as possible and reinstalling the drive shaft. never had to remove a chaincase to swap a track. It can be done in about an hour especially if you have a 2nd set of hands....

If you have to unglue and reglue the chaincase, i'd think about just letting the dealer do it... What kind of conditions does this adhesive need to properly cure again?

'11 assault installed the 2.5 CE alone in my garage...never pulled any chaincase....clearance is there....but not much..... No rubbing 1200miles

 

[Vinnee]

The Pro IS tighter and is a real "bear" to get the tracks in/out.

You will ruin the seal taking it out.. and you will need to be really careful when putting it back in.

Rick! is spot on with the chaincase procedure.. he's helped me out in the past as he's dont this plenty of times.

I'd really like to see Polaris come up with a drive shaft that has a center splined core that can be pulled out easily from an outer driveshaft that carries the drivers... that way it would make swapping tracks a breeze... Drain oil. Pull cover off chaincase... pull unbolt a flange with the the center shaft and pull that shaft out... the drivers and outer would then simply drop out of the sled. That would be worth a couple of lbs to me... Heck... I'd have a spring track and a deep snow track and it wouldnt take much time to change it out.

What am I missing? Not only did I install a 2.5 CE on my 163, my wife changed out her 11' Assault track with a 2.5 CE also without following Ricks reccomendations... I must be losing it???

 

[Luke45]

What am I missing? Not only did I install a 2.5 CE on my 163, my wife changed out her 11' Assault track with a 2.5 CE also without following Ricks reccomendations... I must be losing it???

Yeah, are we talking about the same sled here rick? because I've changed my track about 4 times...Used the same seals and everything. Never a problem...And its not hard at all...in fact...its to easy...lol

And as far as losing it Mr Vinnee...well...you get the point

 

[Vinnee]

And as far as losing it Mr Vinnee...well...you get the point

Luke, it must be the pain killer?! Surgery is scheduled on July 5th!

 

[GoBigParts]

I need to change my track on a 2012 ProRMK next week with a chaincase. I will be putting stock size back on. Does require me to buy a new chaincase seal? If so would it be a upper and lower seal?

I just did my wifes IQ RMK Monday with no problems at all. I was have to leave the backside of the chaincase bolted on and slide the drive shaft all the way throw the tunnel on the clutch side until the splined end dropped out of the chaincase and then pull the shaft back out of the tunnel. Couldn't believe how easy this was.

 

[780ghostrider]

Is it easier to change tracks on quick drive models?

 

[Dirty Steve]

Yes,

No lube to deal with, no seal to worry about.

 

[Reg2view]

The reference is for the chaincase driveshaft seal (lower).

I haven't had to pull the case on a change, just did one over the holidays. Didn't tear the chaincase driveshaft seal, either. But I always have a gasket for the speedo side flange handy, those are paper, delicate, and can be hard to preserve, too. Having both in your box for extras as needed isn't a bad thing. It can be tight even with the 5.1 or 2.5, but even the shop manual doesn't spec pulling the chaincase for track removal, as I recall. I grease the PTO driveshaft bearing with a needle, too, there are two holes in the bearing to inject high qual, low temp synth grease. Amsoil, Mobil1, etc. You did an IQ, you know the drill.

 

[tdblakes]

I need to change my track on a 2012 ProRMK next week with a chaincase. I will be putting stock size back on. Does require me to buy a new chaincase seal? If so would it be a upper and lower seal?

No you don't need to buy a new chaincase seals (I assume you mean the bearing seals on the inside of the tunnel). The only part I've ever had to replace when changing out my track is the o-ring on the splined part of the jackshaft... so just be careful when you remove it not to tear it. I just changed my track the other night, it goes pretty quick.

http://www.kenssportspolarisparts.c...222b84907cf/drive-train-chaincase-all-options

edit: you do not need to remove the chaincase from the chassis to pull the drive shaft to change the track.

 

[GoBigParts]

Well the 08 IQ RMK 600 could have gone any smoother. Piece of cake. So this one should be about the same except I need to remove the brake caliper and disc?

I did order the o-rings, chain case seal and paper seal for the bearing clamp just in case. Didn't even notice a paper seal on the IQ.