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anybody with cmx belt drive experience??

Only on a CMX. The sled is a torque monster!!! Belt system is simple and light, not too hard to change when one blew. Very cool but not sure it is worth $2k.
 
From what I have heard most of the weight savings is in the titanium shafts. Belts are weaker than chains so if you are a jumper consider staying with the chain.

Steve
 
Not a jumper was more curious about belt life. Have an edge bulkhead that I am building a custom sled on. I have a belt drive system but was not sure as to the durability of it when a modified 800 triple is put infront of it. The newer system that I am considering using dosnt have the titanium lower jack shaft but rather an aluminum one, but apparently the titanium flexed too much.
 
I just bought a belt drive from WSM. It should be here any day now. I would think they would hold up just fine. I am going to buy a spare belt to carry with me but, I will keep you posted on wether I have any belt probs or not.
 
Belts like that seems to do great on the top fuel dragsters, I cant see why it would be any different on a sled.

Why would a company like CMX sell a top very very expensive sled with the big power engines just to have the belt drive be the week link? I think it should be good, just damn expensive.
 
The newer belts are made of kevlar and carbon fiber and I think are rated to about 400HP. I had one on my King Cat and rode it like I stole it and the belt drive didn't fail me once. Mine had a ti jackshaft and aluminun drive shaft. Small pain changing tracks, there is only one gear ratio, it rolled very freely, and most of the weight savings was in the shafts (10.5 lbs). Is it worth $2K thats up to you. Saves weight and is more eficent.
 
What part of the chaincase is more efficient that the belt drive dint u understand?

How is a chaincase more efficient than a belt drive??? I would like you to explain that one to me. The way I see it there is no way in hell a chaincase is as efficient a belt drive but, would like to hear your explaination.
 
Some of the things that determine efficiency is the diameter of the top gear, oil viscosity and oil level. If the oil is to viscous it will sling off the chain before it penetrates the chain joints causing increased wear and poor efficiency. Redline has a line of low viscosity gearlube for racing. Nascar uses it during time trials. Most of the OEM oil is too viscous. It should is less than SAE 5 below 40 deg. The other thing is oil level, you only need it high enough to cover the pitch line of the chain. Any higher and it just wastes energy.

Steve
 
Ill let you figure it out on your own.

How is a chaincase more efficient than a belt drive??? I would like you to explain that one to me. The way I see it there is no way in hell a chaincase is as efficient a belt drive but, would like to hear your explaination.

Try this. Take your belt off and spin your track over by hand. Then waste your time installing the belt drive and try it again. Then you will see what im talking about.
 
pos

The idea is great but the cmx drive suffers from many design flaws making it unreliable. The belt would be plenty strong if the outside was braced like the wsm and had a real brake that did not woble and fade so easy. Yes i ran one for years then finaly put the chain case back in.
 
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