Anybody run their bars like this or similar?

[goridedoo]

I mounted a Rox 2" pivot riser to the top of my polaris flat top post, tilted it forward and mounted the pro tapers on that- basically moved the bars forward 2" at the post. I do not plan to run it like this, as I am selling this sled and getting a standard. I want to mount the pivot to the top of the standards riser and do the same thing, only have the bars moved forward at the top... instead of at the post. I saw a set up like this on a cat at Haydays. I'm thinking it would basically force you to be farther forward all the time, feels like it while standing on it... and I think this a very good thing- more control and harder to wash out. I also sometimes find myself "in the bars" on a steep sidehill when I'm all the way forward and trying to petal, hoping this will fix that. Not sure if there would be any negatives to this set up geometry wise- Any input???

 

[goridedoo]

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375648

Just found this, haven't read through all of it yet, but this I how I plan on running my bars.

 

[TRS]

I believe you will get a lot of bar movement with a bell crank affect.

 

[rick5150]

I would never
Your increasing the risk of injuring and or losing your manhood
At least put a pad on that nutbuster if you must

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

It will be like an xp or m sled with the riser strait up.
Set it down from a wheelie and get the death shake.
Reaching farther than you have to while countersteering in a sidehill.
Overall harder to ride all around if the bars are not inline with the steering post.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I would never
Your increasing the risk of injuring and or losing your manhood
At least put a pad on that nutbuster if you must

If you're knee to hip distance is less than 6" you have other problems.

 

[mountainhorse]

One of the stellar aspects of the PRO RMK's is the steering... it truly pivots instead of swings... which gives you really good control of the sled.

I agree with TRS above... and the other comments above.

Not a benefit IMO....





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[LoudHandle]

Feel free to try it but I'm with the rest here. If you need your steering further forward than it is, then it would be best to move the post forward by reversing the mounts to the other side of the over structure rather than trying to accomplish it that way.

A quick and dirty way to see if it works for you, but I would then do it correctly, by moving the post forward if you like it that way.

Way to redneck for my builds. FWIW

I'm building one of my PRO's And one of my IQR's (vertical post mod) with post forward, foot forward, body positioning to see what he AXYS chassis will be more like once mountainized.

 

[KAWGRN]

If you move the post in front of the main hoop does it still fit past the air box?

 

[freak485]

Check with kurts polaris I think they have a kit to move the steering 2 inches forward and it's with the posts you can't tell from the top

 

[goridedoo]

I'm thinking I am going to try it regardless, sounds like nobody has actually tried it? It will be super easy to pull the pivot and put the bar back to where it should go if it doesn't work well. After just standing on it in the shop I think that a more forward position on the pro will be very beneficial, just not sure this is the way to do it, that being said I think the footwell will limit how far forward you can get in relation to the bar position.

The steering still swings flat, one downfall I am thinking as that the steering effort will be greater on the trail. Not sure though,

Not even sure what a bell and crank effect is but it sounds like you are saying your thinking I will get that crazy wobble in the bars that a doo gets in certain snow conditions? Any reasoning there?

I do plan to get a bar pad set up to protect myself.

 

[mountainhorse]

Try it by pivoting your bars forward so the grips would be in the same place ... this would get you the same net effect.



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[boondocker97]

Try it by pivoting your bars forward so the grips would be in the same place ... this would get you the same net effect.



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...and same negative geometry effects.

The downside to these setups is that as the position of your hands is moved so that they are no longer twisting the handle bar on the axis of the steering post - you are now moving the handlebar AROUND the the steering post axis in an arc. AKA Doo steering. As you countersteer, the handlebar swings away from the rider at the grips. This causes you to continually fight yourself as you are trying to pull the sled into the hill, while at the same time you are pushing the handlebars away from yourself when you steer. The distance that the grips are moved off of the turning axis also acts like a lever for the steering system to work against you (bell crank effect). Hit something with a ski, or touch down goofy as said above, and the steering system has more leverage over the rider than it used to.

While you do gain more forward positioning on the sled, it comes at a cost of more muscle fatigue. Remember, there is no free lunch.

The problem gets worse the further the handlebar grips are moved from being in-line with the steering post. That is why running a 8" riser tilted 6" forward on a REV or XP makes them so hard to roll over and hold an edge. My buddy moved the whole top of his REV steering post forward and got the riser back in-line with it and I can actually ride it now. Couldn't ever pay me to ride a REV before. This is also part of the reason the newer Doos handle better. they got the post forward enough that guys don't have to roll their risers forward anymore.

Now, with all that being said, there are still guys on the Cats that do this same thing and they like it just fine. You will just have to try it and see. I suspect that in general the newer crop of mountains sleds handle so well that running a bar setup like this in a limited amount (1"-2") doesn't have AS-MUCH negative affect as it used to.

 

[mountainhorse]

Agree completely... I was just giving him an option that would not cost him anything to try.




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[boondocker97]

Gotcha. I can't remember how much pull-back the Pro bars have, but just have to watch when rolling forward that the ends of the bars don't start pointing to the sky. That gets awkward to hold onto too.

 

[Killer Time Racing]

I Have 2 13' PROs and a Assault Switchback ..

The Pro has a filler panel infront of the Post where the Assault has none. I can see no difference in the air box, so I guess it doesn't hit.

The Assault is way easier to wheelie of corse there is the whole skid mount thing to take into account. And with the wide front even being taken into account is harder to hold on edge ..

What happens besides track stab to the Sidehilling cararistics if you move the bolt to the bottom hole ???

You would think the rear mounting would be better for trail riding at 100mph but much to the contrary the Rear positioning is so much Colder for whatever reason I put it right back!!
We had many many sub zero days and I'm here to tell you these things are COOOLLLD!

 

[mountainhorse]

The Assault SB has an entirely different steering hoop and steering post angle than the RMK's... The steering angles back towards the driver and the RMK stands almost vertical.


What are you referring to when you talk about the "rear positioning" and putting it back?



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