anti ratchet drivers

[yz400ex]

Do you have to have every window cut and clipped on the track in order to run anti ratchet drivers?

 

[ghostwhite]

Yes, you have to have every window punched out and should clip it with combo drivers.

 

[05900]

Have seen them run without all windows clipped,wonder about track longevity though.

 

[machineman]

I use a 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" hole saw with the teeth gone and sharpened for a track port tool and cut a round hole thru the closed window and stay centered in the window. Just let the extrovert tooth ride thru the round hole. This will work just fine. I have not had any problems on my T975

 

[yz400ex]

So you are saying the windows need to be cut, but the clip isnt necessary?

 

[HUNDO]

All of the windows must be opened when using the anti-ratchets but you do not have to clip them all. I am running with every third unclipped to save weight and money . It was also explained to me by a local shop owner that leaving the third clip out helps cool the hifaxes because it leaves a small void to carry snow instead of every clip wiping them clean. I think if you were running a ton of horsepower though, you would want them all clipped for strength.

 

[ghostwhite]

Clipping is more important for hifax wear and if you use hyperfax.

Edit: Adding more track clips is only necessary with hyperfax.

 

[HUNDO]

Clipping is more important for hifax wear and if you use hyperfax.

Not quite sure what you mean here

 

[mountainhorse]

The clip isnt necessary for combo drivers AT THE CORRECT FACTORY TENSION...

The teeth dont touch the windows unless the track starts to ratchet.

Also... the "wives tale" of loose perform better is just that.

Have a look at these links (many more on the forums as well)

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123561

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111417

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166523

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169975

 

[mountainhorse]

The metal of the clip has less friction than just the plain rubber of the track sliding on the hyfax.

Hiperfax is made from teflon and has a much lower coefficient of friction...the track slides more easily on the hyfax.

Pro: less friction, track turns easier, hiperfax lasts longer and is more tollerant to higer temps from low snow.

Con: Cost (About $150 per set.)

 

[yz400ex]

Ok, here is my question then.. This is on a 97 RMK 700.. Has anti ratchet driver and the skid has an extension to a 159 which a stock Polaris 159 is being run.. Since this is not factory should I just use the track tension measurement of an Edge chassis that would run this 159 setup also?? I think they are both track clip to hifax measurement of no more than 1/2". Does this sound like the right way of doing this?

 

[yz400ex]

What is best tool to use when cutting these windows out? Something from like a local hardware store maybe?? Do they have to be cut as a square or will just a round hole work?

 

[theultrarider]

What is best tool to use when cutting these windows out? Something from like a local hardware store maybe?? Do they have to be cut as a square or will just a round hole work?

Takes about 30 min to punch out the closed windows with a drill and a hole saw. I have run anti-rachets on several tracks done like this with zero issues. A turbo with 250+ hp maybe you would want square holes and all clipped. I'm only running about 180 hp though and don't have problems.

 

[yz400ex]

Takes about 30 min to punch out the closed windows with a drill and a hole saw. I have run anti-rachets on several tracks done like this with zero issues. A turbo with 250+ hp maybe you would want square holes and all clipped. I'm only running about 180 hp though and don't have problems.

So the teeth on the hole saw doesnt tear up the track at all?? This sled is an all stock motor 700.. everything else has been modded, but the motor is stock..

 

[theultrarider]

So the teeth on the hole saw doesnt tear up the track at all?? This sled is an all stock motor 700.. everything else has been modded, but the motor is stock..

I just drillled my brand new camo extreme 2.5 out a couple weeks ago will a hole saw that still had teeth on it. Ran it in normal rotation. I just pushed easy on it and let it burn a little as it went. Alot of guys swear to grind the teeth off, or to run the drill in reverse. I have done that as well. You do get a better melt that way I suppose. If you look at the factory cut windows, they are not "sealed" off either. So I went with the teeth and normal rotation and never snagged a cord or anything like that. I have other freinds that have drilled alot of tracks that told me to go ahead and do it that way. I works. Just don't push as hard as you can, let the drill spin and melt a little as you go through it. It is pretty easy to feel it as you are doing it. Just hard to drill the first one in an $800 track that has never been run

 

[yz400ex]

Thank you for the useful info... what size hole saw did you use?

 

[machineman]

Grind the teeth off the hole saw to a knife edge, use a little wd-40 to lube the cut and it will fly right thru. You can run the round hole or u can trim it square I have run both on my turbo'd sled with no problems.

 

[yz400ex]

Thanks for everyones help on this.. I took the advise of theultrarider and just used a hole saw as it was.. Worked very well and its done now.. Used a 1 1/4" hole saw.. Drivers slide right through now.. Again, Thanks to everyone for the help..