Anti ratchet drivers on Pro
- Thread starter t stone
- Start date
no it's not
2011
All the 2012 PRO Chassis chaincases are bonded to the bulkhead
All 2011 replacement chassis have the chaincase included and bonded on.
The track/drives are a PITA to install, especially when it is a 2.5" track or PC with 8 tooth 3" drivers. . Easier with two people.
Here is a trick part that I've found helps with the install/removal...
Polaris part # 3514654
This allows the shaft to be tilted a bit when installing making it a bit easier to slide in place. It is a heavy duty bearing that Polaris has been using since 2009 on the IQR's. It will replace the stock bearing.
There is a good chance the seal is torn already... or nicked... have a close look at that as well... those sukkas can get torn easily installing removing the shaft... better to be watchful/careful now than when you get it all back together and find a puddle of oil in your trailer.
All 2011 replacement chassis have the chaincase included and bonded on.
The track/drives are a PITA to install, especially when it is a 2.5" track or PC with 8 tooth 3" drivers. . Easier with two people.
Here is a trick part that I've found helps with the install/removal...
Polaris part # 3514654
This allows the shaft to be tilted a bit when installing making it a bit easier to slide in place. It is a heavy duty bearing that Polaris has been using since 2009 on the IQR's. It will replace the stock bearing.
There is a good chance the seal is torn already... or nicked... have a close look at that as well... those sukkas can get torn easily installing removing the shaft... better to be watchful/careful now than when you get it all back together and find a puddle of oil in your trailer.
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mine wasn't. That bearing looks like the ticket, if you don't want to replace yours I don't see anything wrong with heating the glue on your case and pulling it off to get the drive shaft in. None of the 2011s were glued and I haven't heard of any failures.
ICR... When did you receive your Replacement Tunnel/bulkhead assembly?
They only started bonding it this year.
Polaris bonded the case because it added rigidity to the chassis, not because of any failures... Yes you can de bond by gentle warming with a propane torch... Carefully... better to rebond if you remove it IMO.
They only started bonding it this year.
Polaris bonded the case because it added rigidity to the chassis, not because of any failures... Yes you can de bond by gentle warming with a propane torch... Carefully... better to rebond if you remove it IMO.
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All the 2012 PRO Chassis chaincases are bonded to the bulkhead
All 2011 replacement chassis have the chaincase included and bonded on.
The track/drives are a PITA to install, especially when it is a 2.5" track or PC with 8 tooth 3" drivers. . Easier with two people.
Here is a trick part that I've found helps with the install/removal...
Polaris part # 3514654
This allows the shaft to be tilted a bit when installing making it a bit easier to slide in place. It is a heavy duty bearing that Polaris has been using since 2009 on the IQR's. It will replace the stock bearing.
There is a good chance the seal is torn already... or nicked... have a close look at that as well... those sukkas can get torn easily installing removing the shaft... better to be watchful/careful now than when you get it all back together and find a puddle of oil in your trailer.
Mountain horse, I am staying with the 2.86 pitch (Avid ?) because I kept the challenger extreme off my IQ that has only 300 miles on it. So you think it is a must to replace that bearing or will it go in? I will also be sure to check that seal. Thanks for the help. I cant wait to see how this thing rips.
Troy
Troy,
There is no need to change that bearing on your sled... it just makes it easier... have patience, a helper and be careful. It is a bit of a pain with the 2.5" and 8 tooth drivers.
The Avid drivers for an IQ will not work on a PRO Driveshaft... they willl slide on, but do not have enough pressure to stay put on the shaft.
You want to put a 2.86" pitch center ported Challenger extreme on your Pro RMK? That will bolt on... but the 2.86" pitch, 7 tooth drivers will give you proper clearance for the track. Check out skadi's build in the Performance section under "member builds"
There is no need to change that bearing on your sled... it just makes it easier... have patience, a helper and be careful. It is a bit of a pain with the 2.5" and 8 tooth drivers.
The Avid drivers for an IQ will not work on a PRO Driveshaft... they willl slide on, but do not have enough pressure to stay put on the shaft.
You want to put a 2.86" pitch center ported Challenger extreme on your Pro RMK? That will bolt on... but the 2.86" pitch, 7 tooth drivers will give you proper clearance for the track. Check out skadi's build in the Performance section under "member builds"
I'm probably being a bit thick.. but what is it that you want to do??
I just want to know if anyone has installed 2.86 pitch 8 tooth anti ratchet drivers on the stock drive axle and if there is any problem with it going back in the sled since the chain case is glued to the structure. Thats all. Im not getting much response. Is everyone leaving the stock drivers in when changing track out. The track runs way to tight with the stock setup. Has to be loss of performance from friction. IMO
Stone
Mountainhorse. Thanks for the info. skadi has a bad *** sled. Im calling Robbie tomorrow to get some 2.86 7 tooth drivers.
Stone
P
pura vida
Well-known member
make sure to check that the track will clear the chaincase with the seven tooth drivers. and what do you mean the track is way too tight with the stock setup and is loosing performance though friction? if you are installing combo drivers for the main purpose of being able to run your track less tight with the idea of getting some of that friction loss back, please spend a little time reading up on the topic, it has been discussed quite a bit in the past, before spending the money and going through the effort to change out the drivers.
pv
(wow that's a long sentence...)
pv
(wow that's a long sentence...)
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I
IQRIDR
Well-known member
First- MH..great idea to use that bearing on the Pro. I always put them on the IQRs but for some reason I didnt think of it on my Pro and I've had the drivers out plenty of times.
I did a chassis replacement for Dan Phillips in about April of last year MH and the chaincase was not bonded. This was on a 2011 Pro RMK.
Did you have to remove the chaincase (2012 is glued) or were you able to get it out and put it back in with the new drivers by sliding to the left towards the speedo side?
Stone
I was able to run the track looser on my IQ and it did better, of coarse I changed to a better track . Not as much drag. Help me understand what you are saying. Thanks.
Stone
Those bearings are a great upgrade to any sled with twin drivers that will experience driveshaft flex under load. Cheap insurance imo. Polaris does offer the bearings (I believe they are an SKF bearing) for around $50 and also, VXB has these bearings available for much less money ($15 I think). They are a 1205 self-aligning bearing. I compared both the VXB and the 'polaris' bearing in hand, and to be honest, I felt as tho the vxb had tighter tolerances. But this is only mho and was just by how they felt in hand. For conversation sake, I have a polaris self-aligning in my IQR, and have a vxb on hand as a spare.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
the short version is a track a proper tension works the best. too loose and it sucks up a whole lot of power due to it flopping around like a wet noodle. recommended tension is actually pretty close. if i remember correctly polaris recommends 1/2 inch of sag with 10 lbs on the track, 16 inches forward of the rear drive axle. mine is set pretty close to that. when in the garage is seems really tight but on the snow, under a load the forces on the track are completely different. fwiw, i have a pro with a powder claw and 8 tooth involute drivers. no extros or combos. i ride the sled very hard and up here we get a lot of wet heavy snow. it never ratcheted once last year. many disagree but i neither like combo drivers (yes i have used them before) or feel they are necessary. although they new design MH work on with avid seems improved but i still haven't seen the need for my purposes.
pv
The track will NOT clear as PV said...using the 7 tooth drivers ... UNLESS you mod the chaincase like Timbersled Allen did for Emiliy (Skadi).
FTX is offereing this on an exchange basis for $200 ready to put back on .
Carefull warming of the chaincase with a propane torch will release the adhesive.
I recommend putting it back on with adhesive though.
With combo drivers... A little less tight than the stock needs to be is good... but not too much... or the single ply track starts to distort in use... plus with stock diameter drivers... the track will rub on the tunnel-roof at speed.
Tight tracks rob power... loose tracks don't perform as well as a properly tensioned track.
With a combo style driver... the rule of thumb... the track should be driven off the involute lugs inside the track 99% of the time with the teeth only catching the track if it starts to ratchet.
The new style "Power Claw" drivers are more efficient than the older combos and give about 1/8" more clearance in addition to smoother running (rubber on plastic rather than metal on plastic), less vibration as the drivers don't run over the clips and the driver itself seats more completely into the internal drive lug when the track does not try to ratchet and ride up slightly before the tooth catches.
IMO... the 7 tooth mod is the way to go... just have to mod the case or go with the Avid or Ice Age Chaincases to get decent clearance for even the stock track....IMO
7 tooth, smaller, drivers are not an issue like they used to be in the old days of stiff/thick double ply tracks ...same thing for stock rear idlers.
.
FTX is offereing this on an exchange basis for $200 ready to put back on .
Carefull warming of the chaincase with a propane torch will release the adhesive.
I recommend putting it back on with adhesive though.
With combo drivers... A little less tight than the stock needs to be is good... but not too much... or the single ply track starts to distort in use... plus with stock diameter drivers... the track will rub on the tunnel-roof at speed.
Tight tracks rob power... loose tracks don't perform as well as a properly tensioned track.
With a combo style driver... the rule of thumb... the track should be driven off the involute lugs inside the track 99% of the time with the teeth only catching the track if it starts to ratchet.
The new style "Power Claw" drivers are more efficient than the older combos and give about 1/8" more clearance in addition to smoother running (rubber on plastic rather than metal on plastic), less vibration as the drivers don't run over the clips and the driver itself seats more completely into the internal drive lug when the track does not try to ratchet and ride up slightly before the tooth catches.
IMO... the 7 tooth mod is the way to go... just have to mod the case or go with the Avid or Ice Age Chaincases to get decent clearance for even the stock track....IMO
7 tooth, smaller, drivers are not an issue like they used to be in the old days of stiff/thick double ply tracks ...same thing for stock rear idlers.
.
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