After 15+ years of being used as a "access" road and camping spots, is it really considered "fill" anymore? I mean, its not like we just dumped a few truck loads of dirt down and started to build on it.
Another Building Question
- Thread starter sd900climber
- Start date
It depends on your soils engineer. If it was here you would either have to remove the fill and come back up with gravels, or drill piers and have a crawl space instead of a slab. By the way I'm not trying to discourage you I hope you can get your house built and live in it for years! Just make sure you don't get surprised by "extras". We get underbid by one company who then comes up with "unforseen" circumstances that turn into big bucks.
Thanks for the heads up Sidehiller. I know there are plenty of contractors out there that will underbid to get the job then send you a huge bill at the end, as you were saying. If they were truly "unforeseen" they shouldn't cost that much, otherwise it should have been foreseen.
The one contractor I've got a bid from so far said he would sign a contract to not go over budget, so that is good. We'll see what others say.
It is just a scary thought that there are ppl more than willing to take advantage of you simply because they can. And in this case in particular, it is on the largest investment of most peoples lives. Pretty scary.
The one contractor I've got a bid from so far said he would sign a contract to not go over budget, so that is good. We'll see what others say.
It is just a scary thought that there are ppl more than willing to take advantage of you simply because they can. And in this case in particular, it is on the largest investment of most peoples lives. Pretty scary.
Lowest Bid
The highest bid is not always the best. Their is guys out their that want just to make a honest living and not rip everybody off. $60,000 seems way high for basement and we usually never finish basements here in Montana.
The highest bid is not always the best. Their is guys out their that want just to make a honest living and not rip everybody off. $60,000 seems way high for basement and we usually never finish basements here in Montana.
I hate wasting money needlessly but in this case i would get a PROCTOR TEST done on the soil at your footing grade before you shell out 150,000 bucks.
900----these guys in your area have a better idea on price than anyone outside your area. I am so glad you went stick instead of mod! Just remember you get what you pay for and ask for references.....you can even ask local builders who they use.....
sounds like you are doing very well,,,,,over here some of the prices are quit a bit higher,,,,,,,,,,,,running into $300 + pr sq ft, some of the homes have gone up to and over $400.00..............that is in the new resort in cle elum.....suncida I think the cheepest home on the market in there is 1.4 M, glad I just landscape there and dont have to live there...................
Yeah, you really need to research prices in your own area. Construction of homes can be completely uncomparable in different areas, even 3 hours south of where I live it is totally different conditions, methods, and prices.
Not a fan of price per sq ft to build. IMO it works about as well as buying a sled by the pound.
Not a fan of price per sq ft to build. IMO it works about as well as buying a sled by the pound.
I agree, seems a little high for the basement you are doing. Your concrete prices seem about the same as here in NW Minnesota. I will be watching this thread, as I am in the beginning stages of building, and should be getting a bid back next week on framing and the basement. My project is approx. 1700 sq feet on the main floor with a full basement underneath. I too will have a few windows and a walkout basement, as we are building on a slope. I am planning on doing alot of the interior work myself minus the sheetrock (I hate doing that). Good luck with your project, I will let you know what my bids come back at.
Thanks for all the replys. As I said, this was just the first bid we got back, so I really have nothing to compare it against. I should have two more back by the end of the week. So we will see where everyone is at. It will probably be another week or two on the other bid.
I still haven't completely disregarded doing a modular because both the bank and realtors that I've talked to said they are financed and appreciated at the same rate as traditional stick built in our market. So, if I can get a 3200 sq. ft home for the same price as a 2400 sq. ft. home, of course I'm going to consider it. I still think stick built is going to be better overall quality, but the speed of the modular is a good thing as well. Don't have to wait 5 or 6 months, only 6 weeks.
But, I really can't make an accurate assesment until I get all the bids back and see how much everything is going to cost. Right now it is a lot of guess work.
Also, another thing that shocked me yesterday. I'm sure most of you aren't familiar with the Black Hills area. But, there is an "upscale" development in Spearfish with million dollar homes, which is extremely rare for our area. Lots sell from 60-130k for around an acre. To make a short story long, there is a house listed, for roughly the same specs as what I am thinking in this development, 4 bedroom, 3.5 bath, vaulted ceilings, hardwood floors, two car garage, yada yada, for $225,000. Now, considering I already own the lot, I should be able to build for roughly 150-175,000 tops you would think, based on that listing.
As of now, I hope 190 is by far the highest bid. But, we shall see.
Here are my figures from 2005 when the materials price was extremely high. The cost of materials is much lower now.
I built a modified 2 story, 9 ft cielings, stone, large windows, etc, I will try to attach a pic
Basement - 1200 sq ft, 9 ft cielings walk out with a daylight view on back. Garage is 35 x 28 Cost was 22k for the foundation and flat work
HVAC - I did my self with a heat pump and all york equip 12k
Electrical - 250 amp service I did myself 7k
Structure - framing cost 22k
Materials 80k
cabinets/tops 17k
plumbing 13k
septic 10k
drywall- hang/ tape/ mud/ prime 10k
I did all trim work, stone, tile, electrical, hvac, dirt work, siding, installed windows and doors, deck, etc
I built this house which is 2400 fin sq ft and 1200 unfinished, 3 bed, 2 full bath, 1 half bath, and unfinished basement on 3 acers for 215k
I built a modified 2 story, 9 ft cielings, stone, large windows, etc, I will try to attach a pic
Basement - 1200 sq ft, 9 ft cielings walk out with a daylight view on back. Garage is 35 x 28 Cost was 22k for the foundation and flat work
HVAC - I did my self with a heat pump and all york equip 12k
Electrical - 250 amp service I did myself 7k
Structure - framing cost 22k
Materials 80k
cabinets/tops 17k
plumbing 13k
septic 10k
drywall- hang/ tape/ mud/ prime 10k
I did all trim work, stone, tile, electrical, hvac, dirt work, siding, installed windows and doors, deck, etc
I built this house which is 2400 fin sq ft and 1200 unfinished, 3 bed, 2 full bath, 1 half bath, and unfinished basement on 3 acers for 215k
Move up to Lead, you can still get a house for a song, of course it's only a good deal if one leg is shorter than the other cause nothing's level.
Some useless trivia for you. Insulating your basement walls to R20 saves you 25% on you total heating costs. If you had R12 in your ceiling and went to R50 you would save 11% on heating cost. Going from low efficiency furnace to a high 32% on heating costs (none heat pump). High efficiency hot water heating from low 3%. High efficiency windows 4%.
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Where are you at pow pow? Sounds like your house is about 1/3rd bigger than what I am planning on doing.
SD,
I live about 65 miles south of minneapolis, 30 miles north of Mankato.
Took me 9 months to build this house, but it wa sall worth it when the bank said I have 250k in equity.
I live about 65 miles south of minneapolis, 30 miles north of Mankato.
Took me 9 months to build this house, but it wa sall worth it when the bank said I have 250k in equity.
We will be in that area this summer for a wedding.
I think you have a retirement plan there Pow. Sell that bad boy, build another one just like it. Repeat. Retire in 5 years. Hahah
That is the plan,,,,,,expcept more land which i intend to buy within 2 years
Looking to be on ag property so the land makes some money for me by renting it out. Probably 40 acers
next house will be a single level with a walk out basement, 4000 sq ft with radiant in floor heat, furnace connected to geo thermal heat source and LP back up with a electric plenum heater on off peak.
I have to stay within a coop electric provider, off peak rates are awsome. Currently at 60.00 per month to heat my house with my heat pump,,,,above 20 degrees
Next house will also have cement board siding, heck of a lot better than vinyl!!!!!!! I will NEVER do vinyl again.
Looking to be on ag property so the land makes some money for me by renting it out. Probably 40 acers
next house will be a single level with a walk out basement, 4000 sq ft with radiant in floor heat, furnace connected to geo thermal heat source and LP back up with a electric plenum heater on off peak.
I have to stay within a coop electric provider, off peak rates are awsome. Currently at 60.00 per month to heat my house with my heat pump,,,,above 20 degrees
Next house will also have cement board siding, heck of a lot better than vinyl!!!!!!! I will NEVER do vinyl again.
Sounds like you have it all figured out. Ha.
Cement board is definately the only way to go.
when you build your house, price the primed cement board against a premium vinyl, it will be cheaper, even with the price of paint.
S
Spaarky
Well-known member
hahahahahha... until your wife starts choosing upgrades.
I dont think the price is too bad. We just finished a year ago, about 3000sq ft. with 28x40 garage. If you shoot me a PM, I can tell you what we paid.
There is a contractor from Rapid on here... he may be able to help, I can give you his name too... I would trust him.
One thing to consider, I dont know the site conditions there. Seems to me, a portion of the basement cost may be the digging. Is it a possiblity they are working through a lot of rock?
I would skip the primed cement board and go straight to the new color lock. Supposedly no painting.
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