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another bluebird day ruined by my rmk 900

0

05 tmk 900

Member
Every time I ride my rmk 900 I am either stressed out wondering what will break next or stressed out because I have to spend another $500 on fixing one more thing as I limp home. Either way, riding an rmk 900 is taking the fun out of snowmobiling for me.

The latest B.S. is that it won't rev past 5000 rpm. It just bogs to death. Usually it just surges at WOT but now it bogs after 5000. I am so sick of this. I just want to have fun and not spend an hour in the shop for every hour I spend on the hill.

Never mind the fact that the hand warmers don't work and the lights are stuck on high beam and the speedo reads 124mph when I'm just sitting there.

Any help would be appreciated. If not. If you know anyone who has more patience or more time than money, I will let this sled go cheap. I have replace just about EVERYTHING on this POS​
 
you have to remember that this in a 6-7 year old machine. she ain't new anymore, shes gunna have her problems.

that being said its an expensive sport for sure... you can rebuild a v-8 cheaper than you can rebuild your 2stroke. but it also makes 160hp from a 0.855 L or 52ci motor.

This is definitely a wrenchers sled for sure. 2 summers ago I had my sled stripped down to the tunnel, looking for wiring frays, couple coolant hose nicks, loose bolts and rivets, worn ball joints. all new bearings, engine mounts, etc. and so far this sled has been performing absolutely flawless, ive had to pull out doo rev and xp's, a yamaha tripple, i have yet to be pulled out (knock on wood LOL), what im trying to say is they ALL have problems, when you goto a riding area look around 90% of the sleds got there hoods up LMFAO.

for your bogging, that sounds right around when exhaust valves kick open... whens the last time they were cleaned? do you run ves gold or regular oil?

WOT surging sounds like a fuel filter problem - if that okay i would trace back to fuel pump(hoses known to come apart in take) to injectors clogged?

as for electrical sounds like a connector or two could be corroded, and your speed sensor probably needs replacing(i just did mine read 190 all the time).

is this sled stored outside or in a heated garage/shop?
 
Sounds like my turbo..lol. If you lived anywhere near me I would loan you a sled and go over yours for you.

Check the things mentioned above. Specifically the exhaust valves. Your Speedo probably has a bad sensor. Like stated above to keep an old sled in tip top condition maintenance is required. I figure $500-1000 per year which is still cheaper than coughing up $14000 for a new sled.
 
Every time I ride my rmk 900 I am either stressed out wondering what will break next or stressed out because I have to spend another $500 on fixing one more thing as I limp home. Either way, riding an rmk 900 is taking the fun out of snowmobiling for me.

The latest B.S. is that it won't rev past 5000 rpm. It just bogs to death. Usually it just surges at WOT but now it bogs after 5000. I am so sick of this. I just want to have fun and not spend an hour in the shop for every hour I spend on the hill.

Never mind the fact that the hand warmers don't work and the lights are stuck on high beam and the speedo reads 124mph when I'm just sitting there.

Any help would be appreciated. If not. If you know anyone who has more patience or more time than money, I will let this sled go cheap. I have replace just about EVERYTHING on this POS​

I had a rough go with my 900 as well, $2000 - $5000 maintenance cost per year just to keep it running, and lots of down days that were worth more to me than money!

Your 5000rpm bog:
-check exhaust valves, they may be stuck or sticking.
-test and adjust your TPS, can cause all sorts of strange probs if there is an issue here.
-check fuel pressure, replace filter if not done recently. You would be shocked how quickly they can plug up from sediment from your gas station pump!

Hand warmers:
-check for power to the heaters, if power is in fact being supplied to them you will need to replace them. Otherwise you may need to look into the control switches.
-if your heaters are damaged or shorting out, I highly recommend unplugging them until you get them repaired because this can affect the rest of the electronics and do costly damage.

High beams:
-sounds like the switch is stuck? or possibly a connector issue, which could also tie into your heater problems.

I hope you have some luck with this! keep us posted on your progress.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Instead of sledding some west coast power in the sun today, I will pull the exhaust valves and give them a cleaning( I cleaned them 10 hours ago, last season). I have plugged the solenoid hoses as many have suggested. I will also order a fuel filter, a tps harness and tps sensor and install them at the end of the week, when they arrive.
I did put a new filter in last year but only rode it 10 hours or so as the stator went, resulting in a 40 mile,6 hour night time tow out of the very back end of the pemberton glacier. After that, along with all the other problems I didn't trust it for the rest of the season so I rode in spots that where easy to walk/tow home.
at 2-5000$ per year maintenance it makes sense to spend $8000 on a 2011 rmk pro... I guess I have reached my tipping point. Last year I calculated for every hour I rode my sled I spend a little over an hour in the shop.
I appreciate your input and it helps to remember that it is 6 years old. Although, I never had this many problems with my 11 year old rmk 800 !!!!
I'll plug away at this till it's fixed. I can't sell it in good conscience with it running like this.

I run synthetic oil but am questioning that lately. I have read conflicting reports.
The sleds are stored under covers and started once during the summer.
I did change the spark plugs.
 
Last edited:
danbot, "currently enjoying my new pro"

I'm wondering what model years are good ? I'm looking at the 2011's because they are the cheapest and they seem to be a reliable sled ! the 2012's seemed pretty reliable, I have heard issues with the 2013's
 
Before ordering expensive parts, I would spend some time diagnosing. Keep your cost down as much as possible.

-you can verify the exhaust valves are opening correctly by watching for the nipple on the bellows nut in the hole in the plastic VES cover.
-inspect VES bellows for leak
-remove VES plastic covers and feel for free movement of the guillotines
-check fuel pressure
-check intake boots for leaks
-test exhaust temp sensor
-test the TPS for dead spots with a quality analog meter
-test TPS harness for continuity (I have re-wired my own instead of buying the polaris pigtail)
-compression test
-leakdown test
-disconnect, clean, inspect and reconnect every wiring connector you can get at

This is just off the top of my head what I would start looking for when I had running problems on my 9, I learned quickly to take the time to diagnose what I could before spending more money.
 
thanks for the idea hpindy. only problem is in spite of all my trouble I have towed more poo's out than I have towed or been towed with my polaris....
Not to mention how many cracked poo tunnels I have welded.....
 
Thanks danbot.
-Today I tested the bellows/exhaust valves. both running smoothly, I clean them every year.
-I replaced the intake boots last year
-I replaced and calibrated tps last year
-fuel pressure was around 45 psi at 4000 rmp

how do I check the exhaust sensor ?
Doesn't a relay somewhere switch over at 5000 rpm ?
I'll try to find an analog meter to test tps.
Is a home made pigtail better than polaris or just cheaper/faster ?

I'll pull exhaust and intake tomorrow and have a look see
 
Sorry to hear of all your problems I own three, (had four just sold one) and for the first year and 1/2 each one was a pain. After I got the kinks out of them they all ran great, and still do. Like Z-man said I spend about $500 in maintenance on each one every year...and that doesn't include things like replacing plastic when I roll one. Expensive but each time I get on one and I feel the power, I forget the cost.

The exhaust sensor is difficult to measure unless it is hot. The manual says 2.3M ohms at 392F and 76 ohms at 1652f. What i typically do is take it out and put a heat gun on it. I look to see that the ohms are decreasing. If you do not have a heat gun I have also put the tip of the sensor in boiling water. Will let you know it is moving in the right direction. If you need a reading at boiling let me know. I can take one out and get a reading for you.
 
Yup, Jerseyrider you got the plan! The exh sensors can't be fully tested very easily but you can use his methods to see that the sensor is changing resistance with temp increase. I always used a propane torch.

The relay that you mention switching at 5000 rpm sounds like your talking about the VES solenoid.

I feel my home made pigtail was FAR superior to the polaris part because I used high quality wire, and I think this is part of the issue with polaris wiring is the quality of the wire itself.

Also, I wanted to mention that your speedo issue could be a simple fix.... If you regularly grease the fitting on that side of the drive shaft it's possible you have too much grease in the cup for the sensor to read. This happened to me once, just clean all the grease out of there and see if it starts working.
 
Insure it a ride it into a tree ! I once loved 900s but just like you they ruined to many good days.

Dump it and get a Pro!
 
Insure it a ride it into a tree ! I once loved 900s but just like you they ruined to many good days.

Dump it and get a Pro!

Couldn't agree more, love my pro. Can't even say I miss any power like others claim.... the 800 in my pro replaces and exceeds the 900 in every way. And then there's the chassis.....

Sounds like this is his general plan.
 
I pulled everything down to the reeds. everything looks good.
Unfortunately I work on two rmk's. I will try the exhaust sensor from my girlfriends and see if it makes a diff. I guess I could also try her throttle bodies...
What does the chassis relay do ?
Thanks for all your input guys. It helps to know I'm not alone in this !!!
 
The chassis relay makes sure the engine management gets all the power it needs before supplying power to other things such as MFD, and hand warmers.
Below a set rpm the chassis relay turns off power to non-essentials... cant remember the rpm limit at the moment.
 
update

I changed everything from the handlebars back, then I replaced the whole section from the handle bars forward. Total for all parts $8500
Sled runs great, shed 150 pounds, pulls really good, no more bogging, both hand warmers work now.

2011.JPG
 
update on the other solution to the 900

I swapped throttle bodies with running sled, no diff, switched exhaust sensor, no diff, swapped fuel filter, seemed better.
Purchased and installed new fuel filter $50, will test drive tomorrow.I could only rev it to about 6000 rpm on the stand, before it would bog at 5000 rpm. I'm sure my WOT bog will still be there but I am used to it now, after 3 years of it.
I will test it out after I ride my new to me 2011 rmk pro !
Sorry ol 900, I was missing way to many good days of riding !
 
Too bad about the Nine. My 05 166 still running strong had it out few weeks back in some good Kootenay Powder up in the alpine with a group all on new 11's 12's Cats and Pro's man this old Nine ran great the only bad thing I can say got her stuck up in a bowl bottomless powder after a hard day of riding, I was done after pulling that 166 beast out.
All I can say after riding a nine and you jump on a newer sled next day, you feel like Champ! :face-icon-small-hap
 
900 update

So I went out saturday with both 900's and the new rmk pro, I had to find a volunteer to ride the 3rd sled which wasn't a problem..
Always the tease, the rmk's ran great ! I'm not sure exactly what the issue was but I think the fuel filter was the key issue. I ran some compressed air through the other one because my dealer only had one filter in stock.
I still need to address the broken hi beam circuit, the non working rear/tail light, the brake light in the dash and the speedo, then get some opinions about rebuilding the top end... Stock vs spi vs wiseco.
I didn't even ride the pro !

Thanks for the info and opinions guys :)
 
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