Has anyone ever had any parts anodized? Im not look for function moreso looks. If you have had this done what type of coating did you get, hard coat or soft coat? Also where did you get it done?
Anodizing
- Thread starter bigchevrolet
- Start date
I had my rails, the aluminum shafts the rear suspension pivots on, spindles done on my 12 assault type 3 hard anodized. It made a huge difference in how little the new suspension pivots have worn compared to last year they still look brand new. The snow doesnt stick as much to the hard anodizing and it doesnt chorrode from the Mag chloride and salt. I had in done at SurfTech industries in Port Moody BC www.sti-coatings.com
Anodizing is a process where the top surface of the aluminum is oxidized, not really a coating. The aluminum oxide layer on the surface will be harder than the base aluminum but if I remember right colors can only be done with type 1 (softest) anodizing. Type 2 and 3 anodizing are considered hard anodizing processes for wear resistance. They come out in gray shades only, like the lower part of a Fox float shock.
I talked to a representative from a shop and he stated that I would have to know what kind of aluminum my rails and spindles are in order for him to coat them. Does anyone knpow the grade of aluminum?
Rails are 7129 t-5 (both stock and Ice Age replacements)
You will have to remove the rear Idler adjuster brackets as those are held in with steel rivets... you can bolt them back on afterward.
Spindles.... don't know.
You will have to remove the rear Idler adjuster brackets as those are held in with steel rivets... you can bolt them back on afterward.
Spindles.... don't know.
Anodized parts on dragboats for years, remember if your after the mirror color finish you want color anodizing, not hardcoat...also the aluminium has to be polished to a mirror surface before its dipped, and I mean perfect polish,then degreased spotless, then it come out amazing....I have used jenco plating in LA for years, alans the man and od your self a huge favor just let them polish it all lmao....trust me there
Heres some stuff I machined last year for my boat and had them do
Heres some stuff I machined last year for my boat and had them do
I was hoing to keep the work somewhat local but with the looks of those parts i may have to ship the works out
Did another race boat in black hardcoat, polished as well...don't have any pics tho, it comes out like a transparent blackish real dark grey as opposed to the vivid black of the color anodizing...remember though it will add .002-.003 thousand to everything and your not going to run a drillbit throught a hole if its to tight...so get the thickness from the shop first then open your dimentions up then send it off.
D
danduvall
Well-known member
So the hard coat is soo hard that it can't be drilled??
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Oh yeah it can be done REALLY hard as much as 70Rc I believe...knife blade hard , its good stuff not going to scratch at all
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing
If you're going to anodize parts on a sled, it should be done in a Type 3 hardcoat only. Anything else and you run too much risk of it flaking away. IMO anyway...
I had the suspension rails and my HRP gas rack hardcoated on my Assault. You will have to remove the track adjustment brackets on the rails as noted and clean up those areas as you do not want ANY steel remnants in/on your rails. I also wet sanded and polished my parts before they shipped out. The better the prep work (polishing), the better your parts will come out.
I had mine done by Anodizing and Metal Coatings out of SLC, Utah.
I had the suspension rails and my HRP gas rack hardcoated on my Assault. You will have to remove the track adjustment brackets on the rails as noted and clean up those areas as you do not want ANY steel remnants in/on your rails. I also wet sanded and polished my parts before they shipped out. The better the prep work (polishing), the better your parts will come out.
I had mine done by Anodizing and Metal Coatings out of SLC, Utah.
D
danduvall
Well-known member
If you're going to anodize parts on a sled, it should be done in a Type 3 hardcoat only. Anything else and you run too much risk of it flaking away. IMO anyway...
I had the suspension rails and my HRP gas rack hardcoated on my Assault. You will have to remove the track adjustment brackets on the rails as noted and clean up those areas as you do not want ANY steel remnants in/on your rails. I also wet sanded and polished my parts before they shipped out. The better the prep work (polishing), the better your parts will come out.
I had mine done by Anodizing and Metal Coatings out of SLC, Utah.
How did you handle the build up issue with all the bolt holes? Drill out prior to coating.? After coating? Or were they OK?
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I did all mine local (MN) actually right down the road from me 615 miles on it all and its still good all type 3 hard anodized as well...black
www.hardanodize.com/
Before i brought it in to them i had everything deburred i think it might of been deburring inc in shoreview MN cant remember for sure anymore. This gave everything an even look and polished up all the parts some as well.
www.hardanodize.com/
Before i brought it in to them i had everything deburred i think it might of been deburring inc in shoreview MN cant remember for sure anymore. This gave everything an even look and polished up all the parts some as well.
Yeah sometimes its good to have the .001-.003 as it tightens up the factory slop..lol
oh fyi color anodizing is a dye that impregnates the metal, it cant flake off like powder coat or paint. But will fade in the sun over time and will scratch ect as its soft.
D
danduvall
Well-known member
I think tightening up the holes that the cross shafts bolt to would be a good thing.
I imagine threaded holes (track tensioner brackets) would need tapped out. Or can they be, in a sense... masked off?
I have also heard of hard anodizing the aluminum cross tubes to prevent wear?! Does anyone have experience with this??
Thanks for the Good info here. I really want to coat my rails this summer .trying to decided between powder coating or anodizes.!
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
You are right...I should have worded my statement better. What I was getting at is that you can scratch through the anodized finish to expose the bare metal, and decorative (colored) ano is more susceptible to this, thus Type 3 Hardcoat should be used for better durability (tougher finish). Decorative ano is also more susceptible to fading as you noted.
Anodizing is the way to go IMO, presuming you're after black rails. A Type 3 hardcoat is a tougher finish and is easier to reassemble due to the minimal surface build up. You also eliminate the risk of weakening the temper in the aluminum during the baking process that is used for powder coat. It seems that as long as they're baked at a low temp for a short duration you will be fine...but if you can remove that variable all together...why wouldn't you? That's my take on it anyway...
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
Yah my power MADD handguard mounts must be a lower anodizing cause they turned gold in the sun, my walker airs turned pink too. So would want to do the better coating for all that work.
Whatever my mountain bike parts are is tough stuff, has a skin to it thoe so not sure if its a coat of some kind but you can take a key to it and a wet finger wipe will take away the scratch.
Whatever my mountain bike parts are is tough stuff, has a skin to it thoe so not sure if its a coat of some kind but you can take a key to it and a wet finger wipe will take away the scratch.
