Am I Missing Anything On My Build??
- Thread starter k-teck
- Start date
Roof vents?
Says it isn't framed for AC or roof vents.
I only have one roof vent and need to put another in for ventilation. With out being able to get some airflow through there it can get pretty funky smelling once in awhile.
Says it isn't framed for AC or roof vents.
I only have one roof vent and need to put another in for ventilation. With out being able to get some airflow through there it can get pretty funky smelling once in awhile.
Are you going to have it wired for 110?
get it rigged for 2 spares on winch cranks so they are tucked up under the floor and u can access them from outside easy. With big long trips like that having 2 is so nice...if you do need one then no worries if you need a spare.
All aluminum is really nice. Make sure you get your walk in door in the right spot...sucks huge when your loaded all up and u have to fight to get in there.
All aluminum is really nice. Make sure you get your walk in door in the right spot...sucks huge when your loaded all up and u have to fight to get in there.
i just had a 30' bumper pull charmac built. here are you my thoughts based on having it for 6 months now:
- i got 7' height and it is awesome ... wish i would have got 7'6". not that much more $$$ and it would be great to have higher shelves to get stuff out if the way
- my trailer is a trisport and has fender wells inside. i like the lower deck height and dont notice the fender wells. you could add 6" to the interior height and go away from the deck over and the trailer would be approx the same overall height.
-if you have rzr's you should be able to fit 3 in a 32' goosenck ... might not be bad to add the extra 2' feet.
-lights on the back of the trailer that come on when the truck is in reverse.
-.04" exterior is alright but i got .05" on mine. it will look better longer
-1 1/8" floor. very sturdy.
-it looks like they're charging you for an extruded aluminum floor in the basic build list then charging another 1800 for 3/4" plywood in the options. do they put the plywood over the extruded alum floor??? if so disregard note above.
- i got 7' height and it is awesome ... wish i would have got 7'6". not that much more $$$ and it would be great to have higher shelves to get stuff out if the way
- my trailer is a trisport and has fender wells inside. i like the lower deck height and dont notice the fender wells. you could add 6" to the interior height and go away from the deck over and the trailer would be approx the same overall height.
-if you have rzr's you should be able to fit 3 in a 32' goosenck ... might not be bad to add the extra 2' feet.
-lights on the back of the trailer that come on when the truck is in reverse.
-.04" exterior is alright but i got .05" on mine. it will look better longer
-1 1/8" floor. very sturdy.
-it looks like they're charging you for an extruded aluminum floor in the basic build list then charging another 1800 for 3/4" plywood in the options. do they put the plywood over the extruded alum floor??? if so disregard note above.
the trailer comes standard with 7k axles but they're charging you $4,820 for 6k axles??
also that fuel station option looks ridiculous. 11k for 80gal of storage??? i would at a sheetmetal fab shop and we would happily make an 80 gal aluminum tank for 4-5k.
also that fuel station option looks ridiculous. 11k for 80gal of storage??? i would at a sheetmetal fab shop and we would happily make an 80 gal aluminum tank for 4-5k.
we're in meridian idaho. bumper pull works great, no complaints ... with that said if i had the $$$$ i would have gone with a GN but charmac wanted over 5k for that single option.
Ok is there a reason other than possible logistics why you went with the Charmac? I appreciate all the comments I spoke with Charmac Engineering this afternoon and they are interested in building it all aluminum with in-floor heat etc.. They did comment about a type of rubber flooring did you use it?
Mike
Mike
Are you going to have ship to shore power for the trailer? You can get either 30amp or 50amp depending on what extras you will be running. Some trailers are requiring 50amp if they are running air conditioners and some don't. You also might want to add an Inteli-power powerconverter, http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9200.html for when you are hooked up to power so that your batteries will be charging.
I would also look at adding some type of 110 volt lights inside for lightening when connected to 110.
Noticed that build sheet only shows one salem vent on the trailer in the rear. I would add one to the front of the trailer high up and the opposite side as the one on the back for better air movement.
With that size of a trailer I would also opt for a larger 42K furnace instead of the 35K one, not much difference in price if any.
I would also look at adding some type of 110 volt lights inside for lightening when connected to 110.
Noticed that build sheet only shows one salem vent on the trailer in the rear. I would add one to the front of the trailer high up and the opposite side as the one on the back for better air movement.
With that size of a trailer I would also opt for a larger 42K furnace instead of the 35K one, not much difference in price if any.
If you can zoom in you'll notice a programmable tstat. Plan on setting this to come on a bit before we're supposed to be back from riding.
If it's pulling double duty as a car hauler I'd make certain to get an additional exit door in the middle on the drivers side so you can open your car door to get out after you pull the car in. Without the ability to open your car door it's nearly impossible to get out.
