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Aftermarket handlebars

Wintertime said:
Thanks for posting that. I was going to do some compraions at shows this year. Was hoping to hope on some display sleds and feel them out and make a choice. The information in this thread has helped out, just need to make a choice or do nothing not sure yet.
Click to expand...

Anyone know if you can use the stock Polaris mountain bar on the RSI Boondoggler bar?


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takethebounce said:
I ran the CFR CB’s for a few seasons. I had previously ran Stock mid and low, Dan Adam’s NxtLvl Fly bars, and Burandt RSI.

The CB’s do not have as much pull back as the stock bars. It’s noticeably less sweep. The Dan Adam’s and CFR CB’s are almost identical.

The factory stock low, CB’s and Adam’s are all a 5” rise bar. The Burandt’s are a little lower by 1/2”.

I haven’t seen the pullback/sweep on the new Burandt 4” bars.

I run a 4” protaper with the same pullback as stock.

This is the CB’s (top), RSI (middle) and stock (bottom) pullback.

View attachment 361963


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Click to expand...

Did you notice improved handling and less arm fatigue with the lower bars? Any other positive take away from lower bars? I’m leaning towards the RSI’s Boondoggler with a 2 inch riser.


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klarkkentster said:
Did you notice improved handling and less arm fatigue with the lower bars? Any other positive take away from lower bars? I’m leaning towards the RSI’s Boondoggler with a 2 inch riser.


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Click to expand...

I have run low bars for at least 10 years. When I had skidoo’s I only ran a 2” riser while everyone else was running 8”. I am short but even after riding with guys like Rasmussen and confirming why I preferred a low riser I still see many people running bars which are too tall for their riding.

Tall bars push you away from the sled when you are turning or counter steered in technical terrain. Moving you away from the centre of the sled reduces the amount of control you have and puts your body out of position.

I prefer my arms a little more straight than in a lazy position which means lower bars. I don’t just size bars up when the sled is pointed straight but also turn the bars to understand how the bend and rise will position you when it matters most.

I ride MX/enduro all summer so I don’t have a lot of fatigue in my arms to begin with. I don’t prefer bars with a straighter profile and can’t say the stock pullback is bad but they comes down to individual ergonomics.


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SidewaysInto3rd said:
Skidoo gen 3 X bars on with a fat bar adapter .. no riser ..
cut 1/2" on each end ... they feel great ! and as an added bonus, match the colors haha
Click to expand...
I really thought about getting bars off of a 2020 expert for the smaller diameter grips. Curious what the total rise on those bars are and how tall are ya? Did the lower bars improve steering/side hilling?
 
klarkkentster said:
I really thought about getting bars off of a 2020 expert for the smaller diameter grips. Curious what the total rise on those bars are and how tall are ya? Did the lower bars improve steering/side hilling?
Click to expand...

Those are about 3" total rise

That's my wife's sled and she's about 5'5" ... that being said my own sled (if it ever shows up) is getting the munster bars with 1" rise and a 2" riser .. so same total height

I find that the low bars work really well for technical riding. I'm 5'8"... had the polaris low bars (5") last year .. rode the munster + 2" riser setup at my shop demo and loved it ... it just sucks if you have to double (squirrel) someone but even on the trail its fine ...

What most people don't realize is they stand tall on the sled and grab low bars and go, wow thats low ... but you never really ride like that .. you are (or should be) in the attack position, bent knees... so you actually want the bars to be lower..

I fought this idea a lot but now im sold on it .. low bars work !
 
SidewaysInto3rd said:
Those are about 3" total rise

That's my wife's sled and she's about 5'5" ... that being said my own sled (if it ever shows up) is getting the munster bars with 1" rise and a 2" riser .. so same total height

I find that the low bars work really well for technical riding. I'm 5'8"... had the polaris low bars (5") last year .. rode the munster + 2" riser setup at my shop demo and loved it ... it just sucks if you have to double (squirrel) someone but even on the trail its fine ...

What most people don't realize is they stand tall on the sled and grab low bars and go, wow thats low ... but you never really ride like that .. you are (or should be) in the attack position, bent knees... so you actually want the bars to be lower..

I fought this idea a lot but now im sold on it .. low bars work !
Click to expand...
Cool - thank you. Agreed. Mine are 7" high currently. Been fighting it so far. Only have ridden it three times so far. Rode my sons with a 5" rise and what a difference. So if 5 is good - 4 should be better. :)
 
Chrishw said:
I’m 5’10” and also run Cfr Munster bars with 2” riser. Find this setup puts me in the “attack” position naturally. Tried a few different setups over the years and find this setup works best for technical riding. For me anyways.
Click to expand...
Nice - I have the RSI Boondocks installed and just waiting on grip heaters to complete install. I took 1/2" off on each side and think these bars will help a bunch. They are 2" and have 2" risers and I am 6'
 
Sheetmetalfab said:
Surly Sunrise bars.

cromoly mtn bike bars, hand warmers get super hot, about a 2.5” rise.

I combined with a 2” fly riser / clamp combo to eliminate the cast aluminum 1980’s polaris bar clamp.

i’m 6’2” and the setup is great.

they come 2” wider than stock so you can cut to desired width.

i used spacers inside the bar to keep my hooks.View attachment 361943View attachment 361944
Click to expand...
cool place to mount your umbilical cord ?
 
Are you guys using your stock warmers when swapping bars? Do they come off without much issue? I just picked up my 850 Khoas with mid bars. To tall for me, Im 6'5. Defiantly looking at a different setup. Thanks
 
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I have also removed over 10 sets of stock hand warmers. I use a sharp knife and cut the foam against the bars, but go slow so you don't cut the heating element. I then cut 1" off each side of the bars, add shrink tube on the bars before the hand warmers, this helps almost double the heat.
 
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