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Advice needed on buying My first M8.

I'm buying my first sled I've wanted to buy an M8 since they came out I found this one for sale locally and I was wondering if it was a good deal and if there's anything I should watch out for when buying a m8. Any advice is appreciated Thanks. $4700 obo 2007 M8 EFI 3,400 miles
153x15x2.25 power claw,no missing lugs
153x15x2.25 ported challenger(spare)no missing lugs
tether switch
Arctic cat cover
underhood goggle/glove bag
polished tunnel
BDX anti stab kit
BDX 2 wheel kit(also have stock full axle and wheels)
ice scratchers
Vented side panels and shock tower vents
dyno jet voltage regulater,takes the stock 16.2 volts to 19.2 volts for more fuel volume
full SLP ceramic coated exhaust
new full factory exhaust
FOX zero pro coil shocks
stock clutching
RKTEK spring torsion secondary clutching
Rock rollers in secondary
MTX clutching
BOSS seat,no rips/tears,zippers all work
09+rear tunnel update
no sno running board inserts
Rox 6 inch risers
ROX billet adjustable handle bar riser(Tpost set up)
two black windshields
BDX cold air intake,not installed
Arctic Cat race team hillclimb fuel mapping in the computer
extra clutch side panel
new primary clutch 500 miles ago
diamond drive serviced two times a year
full arctic cat HD skid plate.
 
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I'm buying my first sled I've wanted to buy an M8 since they came out I found this one for sale locally and I was wondering if it was a good deal and if there's anything I should watch out for when buying a m8. Any advice is appreciated Thanks. $4700 obo 2007 M8 EFI 3,400 miles
153x15x2.25 power claw,no missing lugs
153x15x2.25 ported challenger(spare)no missing lugs
tether switch
Arctic cat cover
underhood goggle/glove bag
polished tunnel
BDX anti stab kit
BDX 2 wheel kit(also have stock full axle and wheels)
ice scratchers
Vented side panels and shock tower vents
dyno jet voltage regulater,takes the stock 16.2 volts to 19.2 volts for more fuel volume
full SLP ceramic coated exhaust
new full factory exhaust
FOX zero pro coil shocks
stock clutching
RKTEK spring torsion secondary clutching
Rock rollers in secondary
MTX clutching
BOSS seat,no rips/tears,zippers all work
09+rear tunnel update
no sno running board inserts
Rox 6 inch risers
ROX billet adjustable handle bar riser(Tpost set up)
two black windshields
BDX cold air intake,not installed
Arctic Cat race team hillclimb fuel mapping in the computer
extra clutch side panel
new primary clutch 500 miles ago
diamond drive serviced two times a year
full arctic cat HD skid plate.

To much money and to many miles. Look on the swapmeet forum on this site. There a better deals then that one.
 
Yeah that's a pretty dialed sounding sled as far as aftermarket perks but those miles and that price could be a better combo.

It's actually not a bad deal but it needs at least a top end. Crank bearings, crank runout etc. need to be checked. Use the cost of that to see if you can get him/her lower on price.
 
With all that crap on it prolly means the guy took good care of it. Spent all of time n money anyway.
For a first sled look at a stocker though unless you want to work on a sled.
Most of that stuff won't mean anything to you if its a first sled.
Could be a dialed runner but miles are where you can expec to do some wrenching especially on a mod.
You can get a 09 with less miles for 5k if you look.
 
First things first

where are you from? I do not know why people do not put that in their profile it helps us give you help.

If your in Canada good deal maybe.

Do you see a value in buying all his extra parts? or do you just want a good sled?

If you are from the west then walk away. you can pick up a 2010 for that more hp and lighter.

So it was a hill climb sled

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=336458
 
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I say look else where just my opinion it is a 07 and like said you don't even need most of that just the fact that its all on there would make me wonder how hard its been used but that's my opinion
 
where are you from? I do not know why people do not put that in their profile it helps us give you help.

If your in Canada good deal maybe.

Do you see a value in buying all his extra parts? or do you just want a good sled?

If you are from the west then walk away. you can pick up a 2010 for that more hp and lighter.

So it was a hill climb sled

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=336458

I'm from Minot ND. I want a good reliable sled.
 
Would either of these be a better sled for the price and be more reliable? 2007 arctic cat M8 153 for sale it has a 2011 hood of the limited sled witch is green but the sled was originally orange. It has 2 inch bar risers, a can, and powder pro skis. Really nice sled just bought a new one don't need any more. It was rebuilt like 700 miles ago it has 3300 miles on it I believe. Power valve cables were just replaced and the power valves were cleaned. The diamond drive was replaced last year with a m1000 diamond drive and the secondary clutch was just replaced. Track is missing a few lugs but still is good. Asking 4300 OBO. or 2007 Arctic Cat M 1000 Sno Pro Snowmobile. 153" Track, 2500 Miles with a new top end around 1800 Miles. and rebuilt Primary clutch at the same time. Speedwerx can, 3" Risers, Skid plate. Sled is in good condition, exept the one small crack in the hood. $4500.
 
Price Must be an issue

Due to the fact you keep bringing up worn out sleds
The reason we told you a 2010 is that is make 163 HP VS 147

Would either of these be a better sled for the price and be more reliable? 2007 arctic cat M8 153 for sale it has a 2011 hood of the limited sled witch is green but the sled was originally orange. It has 2 inch bar risers, a can, and powder pro skis. Really nice sled just bought a new one don't need any more. It was rebuilt like 700 miles ago it has 3300 miles on it I believe. Power valve cables were just replaced and the power valves were cleaned. The diamond drive was replaced last year with a m1000 diamond drive and the secondary clutch was just replaced. Track is missing a few lugs but still is good. Asking 4300 OBO. or 2007 Arctic Cat M 1000 Sno Pro Snowmobile. 153" Track, 2500 Miles with a new top end around 1800 Miles. and rebuilt Primary clutch at the same time. Speedwerx can, 3" Risers, Skid plate. Sled is in good condition, exept the one small crack in the hood. $4500.


I have an 08 M1000 with PC 162 09 tunnel SLP New stator for 4200.00
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353531

You live in an area that has a better economy than the rest of the states so you are going to pay more.
 
Due to the fact you keep bringing up worn out sleds
The reason we told you a 2010 is that is make 163 HP VS 147




I have an 08 M1000 with PC 162 09 tunnel SLP New stator for 4200.00
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353531

You live in an area that has a better economy than the rest of the states so you are going to pay more.

Or back to stock for $3800 either way thats a good price. But if you can afford the $5500 for that 2010 you should jump on that and go on a little road trip. Its better to stay stock if you want reliable and not have to mess with tuning.
 
Listen to the advice in this thread and do whatever you can to find a stock 2010 with low miles, like the white one listed above. It is one of the most reliable and capable sleds out there, especially for the price.
 
I'm always a little leery about sleds with different hoods. May not be a big deal but could also mean it was in an accident or at the very least took a few tumbles down the hill. Also check the suspension, particularly the front as the A arms may be bent. Good luck.
 
The older engine is still really reliable, its just not as powerful as the 2010 and up engine, and the value is less. They are still good sleds (well if you dont by a pos one...) just dont jump on anything to quick unless its something you "need", prime selling season is about to hit so you can expect to see a lot of sleds showing up on the market as the first couple snowfalls hit the ground!
 
Do you have an absolute max budget? Like several people have said, you really should be looking at a '10 or newer because of the engine and some body differences, weight too. If you come back with a max budget that is unrealistic though, then I'm sure people could offer alternative advice.
 
Do you have an absolute max budget? Like several people have said, you really should be looking at a '10 or newer because of the engine and some body differences, weight too. If you come back with a max budget that is unrealistic though, then I'm sure people could offer alternative advice.

$5000 is my absolute max budget!!!
 
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