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Adjusting fuel/oil mixture

One of my RMK's smoked like mad toward the end of last year. After a two hour ride plugs would foul, it would be hard to start and backfire. If I changed the plugs would start up fine but still smoked like mad. Problem seemed to get worse as the season went on.

I was thinking maybe a fuel oil mixture problem. Any way to adjust it? Any other thoughts?

Thanks
 
Have you checked your oil pump cable lately??? They tend to break and keep the arm from returning and the return springs on the pump itself is kind of weak. Start there and let us know what you find. The mark on the arm should line up with the mark on the pump at idle.
 
The mark on the arm lines up with the mark on the pump. The cable does not stick. There was alot of oil residue around the pump. Had to spray it with brake cleaner to get the residue off to see the mark on the arm and the one on the pump

What should I check next.

Thanks
 
Alright, if you have verified that the pump is operating normally, how about this....

If you fill up the oil tank to the top and let it sit for a while (a couple weeks perhaps) does the oil level in the tank drop at all? If it does, that is indicative if a bad inner crank seal which is letting extra oil into the crankcase in addition to the oil from the injection system.

Also, are you using Champion or NGK plugs?
 
94 ford guy --

It has been sitting since last winter and there has been no change in the oil level in the tank.

I am using NGK plugs. Use the same plugs in all my 9's Should I use the champions?

hammerman --

I will take the bellows off tonight or tomorrow and get back to ya.

Thanks
 
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The belows did not seem to have a hole in them but sections of the bellows were pretty thin. I could see fibers.





There was also a heavy coat of oil on both sides of the bellows. Almost like the oil went from one side to the other. I have included three pictures
  • The first is the top side
  • The second is the underside
  • The third is a picture of the valves they sit on top of. The left side has not beed cleaned. It might look like there is a bellow on it, but there is not. The right side was cleaned.
I am defintely getting a new set of bellows.

What should I check next?

Thanks

RMK 900 144 Bellow 2012-09-11 004.jpg RMK 900 144 Bellow 2012-09-11 007.jpg RMK 900 144 Bellow 2012-09-11 008.jpg
 
The top side of bellow should be clean and no oil. definitely change them. As for the oil crankcase leak test. Wasn't mentioned above and you may know it from searching on the forum but just pointing it out the oil tank must be full or over the half way point to where the oil line coming out in the middle goes to the crank. if leaking in the crank the oil will continue to leak and once reach the middle oil line will stop. so only way to do the test is with a full tank.
 
Monster715 – It’s my sons’ sled (it has your 144 track on it) and he says it ran fine while it was running. Nothing out of the ordinary except the plugs fouling after about 2 hours of riding. Then it would be hard to start and even backfire upon start. If it was hesitating does it point to another problem?

Mountain rider and Sno_mo_racer – Got the new bellows and will put them in.

Sno_mo_racer – The oil in the tank has been full to the top all summer. So way past the line that feeds the crank. Thanks for bringing that up

So do you guys think it was the bellows causing the plug fouling or so I check something else? Got time right now. Done jet skiing
 
I don't think the bellows would cause plug fouling as they control valve operation. I had a pin hole in one bellow a couple years ago. Looked like your top side pic but wasn't causing plug fouling. Sounds like getting more oil in before reaches the valves. Have a look on the throttle body if it has stock cables. There is a brass elbow cable goes from throttle body to the oil pump. That elbow is known for breaking. that is why fbf cable and motion pro designed the better cables for the 700/900.

Sounds to me like the oil pump arm isn't returning. Maybe add a spring on the pump arm to help it return to idle. Or it can be something else causing it to get too much oil somehow.
 
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Yeah, I was just curious if you may have had a coolant leak possibly going on as well with a pinched o-ring but thats probably not part of it.

I find it interesting that in your photos, the mag side EV base is covered in oil and the other side appears clean. Did you clean off that one side before taking the photo?
 
Sno_mo_racer – I checked the elbow and it looks fine. Also the mark on the lever is line up with the mark on the body so I think it is closing. every time I open the throttle it goes back to the lines lining up.

Monster715 – I cleaned PTO side so I could show how bad they were. I will fill the coolant to see if it leaks. Which O rings?


Any other suggestions why the fouling is so bad?

Thanks
 
The o-rings under the cylinder head. For cylinder compression and a seal to the water jackets that run up the side of the cylinder and into the head. I really dont think thats the issue but you can certainly verify that you are not low on coolant or if you are losing coolant.

I am a little baffled though. I wonder if the oil pump is just bad and is dumping excess oil even though the 'set' lines look correct. Just sitting there right now everything is going to look fine from what you have described. However, go and fire the engine up and let it run for a while - does it still smoke alot? If you were to run for a period of time - you could watch the oil consumption but you would need to find a way to cool it as it ran that long. Its too bad that the pump was not an easier item to swap out. I think I may have a spare one that you could try. Back to basic troubleshooting......process of elimination.
 
It did smoke alot when I fired it up about a week ago. But only ran it for 1 minute

I think what I will do is change the rings (and all the other gaskets) as I am putting in the 06 pistions and then wait for the winter to arrive. If it still smokes bad and fouls plugs I will change the oil pump.
 
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