I want to pull the accs system off a 99 rmk 700. What exactly is involved? Do I have to remove the equipmenton the carb or just on the air box? Do I have to rejet after removal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ACCS
- Thread starter Dauphinpowder
- Start date
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195557&highlight=ACCS+removal
Or do a search for ACCS removal.
Or do a search for ACCS removal.
Hey FEZ....I read your instructions on accs removal and I've done that to my 2000 RMK. I ride at higher altitude (6000 ft. and up) and I am running the 3168J needle. If I understand the numbers correctly, that should give me a leaner mid range. Even with the J needle, I'm still getting a lot of blubbering in the middle. Have you tried your setup at higher altitude? I would think it would be awful rich. (?)
@ 6-9K I run the 1371G needle in the #2 above 15 ish degrees and #3 below that. 38 Pilots, stock 6.0 slides and if I remember right 145-150 for mains. This might be leaner than you are comfortable with on themains. if so then 150-155 will suffice. I always run 2 sizes leaner than what Polaris recommends. My motor is stock with a little porting to the intake and exhaust boost ports.
She runs like no other 700 that I have run into...
She runs like no other 700 that I have run into...
It's good that we've had this conversation. I checked my needles yesterday, and I'm running 1368G's 
. I overhauled the motor last summer and must have put the wrong needles in. Your main jets at high altitude seem pretty lean to me. I run an SLP single pipe/clutch setup, so I'm running a little leaner than SLP's recommendation. Is your sled piped?
. I overhauled the motor last summer and must have put the wrong needles in. Your main jets at high altitude seem pretty lean to me. I run an SLP single pipe/clutch setup, so I'm running a little leaner than SLP's recommendation. Is your sled piped?Stock pipe, though I had it ceramic coated, then powder coated black to keep the stock appearance. Everything under the hood is stock except for the ACCS removal, some porting to the intake and exhaust boost ports and the reeds are out of an 02' 600 small block Polaris.
series 4 144 track.
for clutching/gearing I run:
140-330 primary spring
10/60's balanced to 59.5G
stock silver/blue in the 3rd hole with a HSP 36S helix
18/41 gearing
Your set up will vary, but this is what I run. Along with the jetting there hasn't been too many 700's out there that I worried about.
I will qualify this statement by saying I haven't taken this sled out west for 4 years so I suspect the new Polaris 700 might be more than this old girl can handle
series 4 144 track.
for clutching/gearing I run:
140-330 primary spring
10/60's balanced to 59.5G
stock silver/blue in the 3rd hole with a HSP 36S helix
18/41 gearing
Your set up will vary, but this is what I run. Along with the jetting there hasn't been too many 700's out there that I worried about.
I will qualify this statement by saying I haven't taken this sled out west for 4 years so I suspect the new Polaris 700 might be more than this old girl can handle
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It's good that we've had this conversation. I checked my needles yesterday, and I'm running 1368G's
Pay attention to the gray trail your sled leaves in the snow on the right side of the sled. If you see one, and can figure out by this trail when you are on and of the throttle, your jetting is way rich. I suspect it is as SLP pipes run great with stock pipe jetting
Do a search on "hardcoresledder website" for jetting an SLP piped 700 and you will find plenty. Not specific to your altitude as this is aflatland site, but not hard to convert the info for your application.
accs
I did the search on HCS. Lots of good information. After I change the needles to 1371G's I should be pretty close. Now all I need is snow!
I did the search on HCS. Lots of good information. After I change the needles to 1371G's I should be pretty close. Now all I need is snow!
my sled still has the accs system on it and it was blubbering pretty bad so i put the slp power packs in the carbs and it is frickin crisp now huge difference, had to adjust the air screws a tad to realy dial it in.
As the ACCS fails, which they all do, the sled will run richer and richer.
It is only a matter of time.
Fast idle
Sorry to hijack this thread, but now that I have the right needles in my 2000 RMK (without accs), I also put a slp boost bottle on it. The instructions said it would idle fast on keihin carbs and it does.....about 3000 rpms. According to slp you can't adjust the idle down using the adjustment knobs on the carbs. You have to adjust the throttle cable on the top of the carbs. So, the question is: Do I turn the adjuster into the carb (clockwise) or out of the carb (counterclockwise)? My logic tells me they should go in to bring the idle down. Thanks
Sorry to hijack this thread, but now that I have the right needles in my 2000 RMK (without accs), I also put a slp boost bottle on it. The instructions said it would idle fast on keihin carbs and it does.....about 3000 rpms. According to slp you can't adjust the idle down using the adjustment knobs on the carbs. You have to adjust the throttle cable on the top of the carbs. So, the question is: Do I turn the adjuster into the carb (clockwise) or out of the carb (counterclockwise)? My logic tells me they should go in to bring the idle down. Thanks
I have the same problem dakotalloyd, any help would be greatly appreciated.
You would turn the adjusters on the top of the slides in to lower them.
First I would take both carbs off and count how many turns out the idle screws are set to now. Then turn them 2 full turns further out. Now lower the slides until they bottom out. Now sync them and set your free play in the flipper. I do not agree with SLP on the inability to adjust the idle with the idle circuit. That is a cop-out.
Now see how it runs.. You may need to go up on the pilots. My experience has been the Keihins work great when jetted properly. Boost bottles and power-Paks are not necessary when the right parts are in the carbs to begin with.
Now for a wrinkle. I just had to replace my Keihins this year with another low mileage set due to a seat worn to the point it could no longer seal properly. The seats are not replaceable on the Keihins.
Yes, they are a little finnicky, but when you get em right, they work just as good as any other carb.
First I would take both carbs off and count how many turns out the idle screws are set to now. Then turn them 2 full turns further out. Now lower the slides until they bottom out. Now sync them and set your free play in the flipper. I do not agree with SLP on the inability to adjust the idle with the idle circuit. That is a cop-out.
Now see how it runs.. You may need to go up on the pilots. My experience has been the Keihins work great when jetted properly. Boost bottles and power-Paks are not necessary when the right parts are in the carbs to begin with.
Now for a wrinkle. I just had to replace my Keihins this year with another low mileage set due to a seat worn to the point it could no longer seal properly. The seats are not replaceable on the Keihins.
Yes, they are a little finnicky, but when you get em right, they work just as good as any other carb.
Yeah I think my left slide isn't getting all the way down. May be time for a new spring. Thanks for the advice.
^Original Poster
What altitude do you typically ride? I'm no ACCS and run 9,000 ft to 12,000 sled runs like a banshee on the mountain and good at home too (6,500 ft) I don't remember what jets I am running but the carbs are on the bench now..I can take a look if ya want.
What altitude do you typically ride? I'm no ACCS and run 9,000 ft to 12,000 sled runs like a banshee on the mountain and good at home too (6,500 ft) I don't remember what jets I am running but the carbs are on the bench now..I can take a look if ya want.
accs
Ya.....what jets are you running at that altitude? thanks
Ya.....what jets are you running at that altitude? thanks
accs
Update....(fyi) I was able to bring the rpms down at idle just using the idle adjustment knobs on both carbs.
Update....(fyi) I was able to bring the rpms down at idle just using the idle adjustment knobs on both carbs.
When adjusting the idle with the idle screws do you have to turn the screw on each carb the same amount so they stay synced?
accs
Snow guy: It seems to me that they have to be in sync. After I got my idle rpms to come down, I shut it off and turned the idle screws back in and then marked the knobs and turned them out the same amount (or at least very close). Nothing too scientific, but it made sense to me that they both should be the same.
dakotalloyd
Snow guy: It seems to me that they have to be in sync. After I got my idle rpms to come down, I shut it off and turned the idle screws back in and then marked the knobs and turned them out the same amount (or at least very close). Nothing too scientific, but it made sense to me that they both should be the same.
dakotalloyd
Removing ACCS
Hi Dauphinpowder,
I just did this last year on my sons 2000 RMK 700. after poor running and several flooding issues after hard riding, we decided it had to go!
We pulled the ACCS unit off, sealed the hole in the airbox.
Rerouted the vent tube from the carbs right to the airbox (so they see atmospheric pressure and stay clean.
Then re-jetted using the charts for a 2000 XCR i think. I just found a sled with the same motor that didn't have ACCS and put in the jets in recommended for our altitude on the downloaded set up chart.
You MUST rejet because the ACCS works by restricting the air pressure on top of the fuel in the float bowls and the jets used with ACCS are very rich if they see full atmospheric pressure.
Now that we are done, it hauls and has no more inconsistent tuning issues. I should have done it years ago. it is far snappier than my 2001 800 RMK and will run with me side by side all day. We have never found a spot flat and straight enough for me to beat him on the top end so for all intents and purposes, it might as well be an 800 now. WHAT A DIFFERENCE from the boggy P.O.S. it used to be!
Hi Dauphinpowder,
I just did this last year on my sons 2000 RMK 700. after poor running and several flooding issues after hard riding, we decided it had to go!
We pulled the ACCS unit off, sealed the hole in the airbox.
Rerouted the vent tube from the carbs right to the airbox (so they see atmospheric pressure and stay clean.
Then re-jetted using the charts for a 2000 XCR i think. I just found a sled with the same motor that didn't have ACCS and put in the jets in recommended for our altitude on the downloaded set up chart.
You MUST rejet because the ACCS works by restricting the air pressure on top of the fuel in the float bowls and the jets used with ACCS are very rich if they see full atmospheric pressure.
Now that we are done, it hauls and has no more inconsistent tuning issues. I should have done it years ago. it is far snappier than my 2001 800 RMK and will run with me side by side all day. We have never found a spot flat and straight enough for me to beat him on the top end so for all intents and purposes, it might as well be an 800 now. WHAT A DIFFERENCE from the boggy P.O.S. it used to be!
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