Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

AC/DC regulator is dead

K

KON

Member
Like topic, anyone else experienced this??
It's a 2011 pro rmk assault, about 2300 kilometers..
It died after I stopped it in a normal way and it wouldn't start again, and after som troubleshooting I concluded that the sled produces AC power but not DC..
 
ac/dc regulator is dead

There is a relay that is above the steering rod, that might be stuck. Mine was.
 
It is stock Polaris. It is made so that the engine has to be running for any DC to flow. I'll be picking up my new one Tuesday. Will post pics.
 
It is stock Polaris. It is made so that the engine has to be running for any DC to flow. I'll be picking up my new one Tuesday. Will post pics.

Have you got your relay?
I have ordered one aswell, it's the only component I haven't changed yet.. If it's not that I have to take a trip to my dealer and use a lot of $$ to find out whats wrong =(
 
This morning I tried to put a 12v battery instead of the capacitor and started the sled, the light came on so that meens that the relay is intact or what do you think?
Is it possible to check the stator? Ohm?
 
I think I've found out.. When I start the sled with all connectors in it produces between 8-10 DCV, measured after the regulator that sits on the clutch cover.. When I unplug the fuelpump and drive that with a 12v battery just to get the sled running it produces 13,5-14,3 DCV.. Sometimes With the fuelpump plugged in the harness it peaks up to 14 DCV for a little while before it drops down to 8 DCV again.. So, my conclusion must be there are some bugs with my fuelpump..
 
Stator should produce 14v of power. Can be checked at yellow wire going to capacitor. Out of regulator should be 12v constant. At all dc power outlets 12v as well. For example dc wire under hood most hook 02 sensor power to should b 12v as well, easy to check.
Mine is starting to lose power at anything less than 4500 rpm.
Here's what I've done thus far: replaced bad stator, it helped but not fixed. Swapped capacitor and voltage regulator, still not fixed. Found 02 sensor was sucking to much power so I replaced and it's no longer sucking power but still not fixed. Unplugged a/f gauge it helped but still not fixed. Unplugged all turbo accessories still no fix. Tonight I'm swapping fuel tank and then ecu off my stock pro. 1 at a time to see if one fixes problem. If all that fails then wiring harness it is. Funny thing is I have the Polaris diagnostic computer and it can't tell me what's wrong specifically just that it's low voltage!! So in my case it's process of elimination to find problem and dealer would be no different.
Relay didn't work either, all grounds r good as well. I'll report back tonight if Not to late.
 
Power

Bad fuel pump was the cause. It was drawing down power to 8v at idle and when sled would rev up it would power up enough to run sled just fine. Also like mentioned at a cold start it wouldn't start drawing power down until 5 to 10 minutes of run time and 160 degrees. So to sum it up if doesn't code anything on Polaris wrench it's not wire harness. If stator reads 14v it's fine. If power out of regulator is 12v then it's good. After that it's fuel pump!
 
Yes, if you read my last post you can see that after hours of troubleshooting my conclusion aswell was a bad fuelpump..
Could you be so nice and measure the Ohm on the fuel pump? Mine was 1,3 if I remember right..
I'm glad we both found out the same, that is it the fuel pump that draws to much power..
 
Just had this same exact problem, found out it was fuel pump. I added some oil to the fuel just to see if some lubrication would help the pump and surprisingly I haven't had a voltage issue after one full ride and several trips around the yard. Dumb luck maybe but we'll see
 
Okey, you were lucky.. The fuel pump draws to much power, that I have found out.. But, yesterdays testdrive resulted in the sled stopped and I can't get any power out of the stator.. I measured the two yellow cables that comes from the engine and up by the clutch cover, 00 ACV..
Can it be the fuelpump sucking so much power over time that have caused the stator to die? The really funny thing is that when I measure the stator, the OHM value is spot on and it is not short cirquit.. And I didn't meen HA HA funny =/
 
Okey, you were lucky.. The fuel pump draws to much power, that I have found out.. But, yesterdays testdrive resulted in the sled stopped and I can't get any power out of the stator.. I measured the two yellow cables that comes from the engine and up by the clutch cover, 00 ACV..
Can it be the fuelpump sucking so much power over time that have caused the stator to die? The really funny thing is that when I measure the stator, the OHM value is spot on and it is not short cirquit.. And I didn't meen HA HA funny =/

it is possible your fuel pump draw to much ampere+turbo oil pump+A/F+boost solenoids etc.that would put more load on the stator is designed for.a short to ground could also crap out stator.not so much fun troubleshooting expensive ****.have you tried disengage headlights to get the current up.maybe it is enough to get the pump running agian
 
The headlights and grip heaters don't run off of the same circuit from the stator as the V/R that runs the gauges, fuel pump and accesories. To me it really sounds like you have a short on the DC side of the system, I have seen a short on the other (AC) side of the system that resulted in no voltage after a short time but still had DC, then 15 min. after problem resolved voltage came back. I hope you figure it out cause these electrical problems can be a pain. Also I have to ask, is any body with this fuel pump problem running AV gas?
 
Last edited:
Stator should produce 14v of power. Can be checked at yellow wire going to capacitor. Out of regulator should be 12v constant. At all dc power outlets 12v as well. For example dc wire under hood most hook 02 sensor power to should b 12v as well, easy to check.
Mine is starting to lose power at anything less than 4500 rpm.
Here's what I've done thus far: replaced bad stator, it helped but not fixed. Swapped capacitor and voltage regulator, still not fixed. Found 02 sensor was sucking to much power so I replaced and it's no longer sucking power but still not fixed. Unplugged a/f gauge it helped but still not fixed. Unplugged all turbo accessories still no fix. Tonight I'm swapping fuel tank and then ecu off my stock pro. 1 at a time to see if one fixes problem. If all that fails then wiring harness it is. Funny thing is I have the Polaris diagnostic computer and it can't tell me what's wrong specifically just that it's low voltage!! So in my case it's process of elimination to find problem and dealer would be no different.
Relay didn't work either, all grounds r good as well. I'll report back tonight if Not to late.

How did you get a copy of digital wrench? I though only dealers could get that?
 
I don't run the AF gauge yet, so the only thing sucking DCV from that cirquit is the turbo oil pump and ebc..
However, when I unplug the fuelpump and feed the pump wuth a battery just to get the engine to start it doesn't produce AC power from the stator with Everything on that cirquit plugged out, the other two courses gets power though=/
So, I replaced the turbo with the original muffler and bypassed the BD control box using a 9v battery and using the IC as a airbox so my sled is goung yo my dealer today.. They have ordered a new fuelpump and a stator..
 
Premium Features



Back
Top