Ac/dc rectifier grief

[ippielb]

Running into problems on my sled running an aem air fuel gauge and it needs 12v do and 3.5 amps on start up. Tried a koso Ac/dc converter, fried it. Bought another off eBay that said it was rated for 3amps. Had it going off the accessory plug, to a battery and a diode to stop the battery from feeding back into the system. Worked great for a little bit, but it fried in a couple minutes. I have another koso at/doc converter and have it plugged into the accessory and have a diode in line so it can't drain the battery. Now, with it plugged into the accessory plug, then going to the battery, and running a relay to turn the gauges(air fuel, and boost) on when the sled starts and starts producing DC power from the koso unit.

Only problem while its like this, the sled's rpm/speedo is barely lit up, but no digital display comes up on the screen. It's as if I'm robbing too much power from the sled and it doesn't have enough to keep the speedo working.

When it rev the motor a little bit the speedo lights up and the boost gauge starts working, but air fuel doesn't.

At a loss of what to do.

I'd rather not run a battery.

 

[Thunder101]

Get your DC power from the red w blue stipe at the voltage regulator at the nose of the sled, fuel pump is also DC but the wire is lighter gauge so I tap in up but the regulator/rectifier .
I've done this on four sleds with no problems

 

[ippielb]

Get your DC power from the red w blue stipe at the voltage regulator at the nose of the sled, fuel pump is also DC but the wire is lighter gauge so I tap in up but the regulator/rectifier .
I've done this on four sleds with no problems

Some guys on hardcoresledder said to buy an arctic cat kit, but I thought it only worked on the new style harness and stator.

Another one recommended to buy a regulator off a sled with electric start and go from that plug.

Found a sabercat that has a 4 wire regulator, while my sled is a 3 wire.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Artic-Cat-Sn...ecf880d&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=131647739549

Here's one from mine

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat-...ash=item2c5a35bcd1:g:40oAAOSwwE5WVhnB&vxp=mtr

Red and blue is power valve power, there's a couple other dc power.

 

[ippielb]

I tapped into the red with blue stripe witch is the DC power, started sled, check engine light came on, so I turned it off, now it won't start back up, when I pull the sled over it doesn't start and check engine light comes on when I'm pulling. Did I fry my ECU or my voltage regulator. This is on an m7/f7 by the way.

 

[smokindave]

Is there a fuse on the m7 like on the m1000.
On the 1000 it is by the ecu


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[ippielb]

Is there a fuse on the m7 like on the m1000.
On the 1000 it is by the ecu


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No fuses inline on the m7's, checked inline for any wear through and the grounds.

I'm going to scratch the idea of tapping into the DC power for the power valves and try to get a rectifier to run off the accessory plug, the lighting coil is a lot stronger on m7's, plus I deleted my headlights so I'll have some power from there.

Now I just need to figure out how to test my voltage regulator and my ECU, I have both off the sled inside the house. I also have a good ECU that I can compare the two if someone knows the ohms on certain pins of the ECU I can test.

 

[ippielb]

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

[ippielb]

Just tested my stator. And there is one part that is only half of spec, the 3 pin locking tab. Which is ignition I believe? Which would explain why I have an orange spark instead of bright blue?

3 prong(two yellow one brown)
2 yellow wires - 0.7 ohms
Brown eyelet to the plug - 0.3 ohms

3 prong with locking tab, tab to the bottom
Left and centre - 8.0 ohms
Centre and right - 7.7 ohms
Left and right - 15.3 ohms

Square 4 tab with locking tab to bottom
Bottom 2 wires - 1.7 ohms
Top 2 wires - 15.2 ohms

Ignition timing sensor - 94 ohms