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A few new questions

D

dmkhnr

Well-known member
Alright, I got her running for a period of time tonight, tried to bleed the oil pump but found a fuel leak in one of the high pressure lines coming off the fuel pump.

I need to replace the entire line from the fuel pump to where it intersects with the fuel pressure shcrader valve.

Where does the exhaust probe plug in? I plugged the coolant temp sender in, but I don't see another connector, except for up in the nose.

How do I convert the gauge over to miles. I don't see any buttons, and it reads 727 kilometers.
 
Alright, I got her running for a period of time tonight, tried to bleed the oil pump but found a fuel leak in one of the high pressure lines coming off the fuel pump.

I need to replace the entire line from the fuel pump to where it intersects with the fuel pressure shcrader valve.

Where does the exhaust probe plug in? I plugged the coolant temp sender in, but I don't see another connector, except for up in the nose.

How do I convert the gauge over to miles. I don't see any buttons, and it reads 727 kilometers.

There should be a couple wires for the exhaust probe zip-tied to (or near) the TPS wiring on the right side of the motor by the removable brace. The connectors themselves should be clear rubber insulated bullet style connectors if I remember right.

As for the kilometers to miles, not sure... you may have to have the dealer do that one for you, I Don't Know????
 
What about the high pressure fuel line? I looked in the diagram and it said I need the entire fuel rail. There has to be somebody who has replaced a section of line?
 
there should be instructions in the service manual or the owners manual on how to change the gauges..

and if you have a leak in the fuel rail, if you know a good service center locally, they might have the equipment and fittings to replace that line for you...otherwise you will have to replace the entire rail as a unit...
 
What about the high pressure fuel line? I looked in the diagram and it said I need the entire fuel rail. There has to be somebody who has replaced a section of line?

As Guido said you can take it to a local place to have one made. Like a hydraulic or aircraft shop or something like that. Where are you located?
 
This post from Polar Express may give you some ideas for hose replacement.

Polar Express :
Replacement fuel filter for Dragons

Given the high cost of the factory fuel filter, the small size, and the hard-to-get-too factor, I decided to follow EricWs lead, and retro on different filter. In his write-up, the sleds have a turbo, and thus, no stock airbox. Our sleds are not turbo’ed (yet), and so we have the space challenge of the stock airbox to work around. Wait…. Maybe this is the reason to justify putting on a turbo!!!!!!

I jumped on the Wix site, and found several options. The one I selected was Wix # 33199. (NAPA # 3199) I did this because it’s rated for EFI, (10 Microns) and if it can supply the Northstar V8 platform, I figure it’s fine for a snowmobile. Also, it’s a reasonable size.


This filter uses 5/16” quick connectors on each end, it actually comes with the plastic clips on the filter, but they come off easily. Dorman makes the 5/16” quick dis-connectors. NAPA (NAPA # 730-4926), and CarQuest (CarQuest # 800-120) carry them.

My concept differs from EricW’s idea in a few ways; my chosen filter uses 5/16” inlet and outlet fittings. The outlet on the top of the fuel tank is also a 5/16”, so I made a hose with two ends that is a little more than a foot long, one end connects to the pressure side of the tank fittings, the other end to the inlet of the filter. The third disconnect fitting goes on the outlet of the filter, and about 3 feet of line get you to the fuel rail. I cut off the factory crip-on at the fuel rail, and put on the EFI fuel line. I chose 5/16” fuel line, EFI rated, and it’s not cheap. It’s about $6/foot, but you only have to buy it once.

Parts list:
5’ 5/16 EFI fuel line (~$30)
(3) 5/16” quick disconnects (~30)
(4) premium hose clamps (~$5)
fuel filter (~$8)

So, yes, doing this retrofit costs you as much as one Factory Polaris fuel filter, but…. I can change my filter in about a minute, and it only costs me $8 to do so. When it is easy, and cheap, it gets done more frequently.

Based on my discussions with Curt @ Fastrax, he is of the opinion that a 2-micron filter would be ideal, but so far, we have not found a filter with that small of filtration in a reasonable size for our application. (I’m not saying it doesn’t exist, we just don’t know of one). I’ll agree that 2-microns would be nice, but I suspect that the 10-micron filter from Wix is likely better than what is available from Polaris, and certainly less expensive.

The first one I did was on my wife’s D7, and we were replacing the motor, so access was easy (on the bench). On my D8, however, I did it in the sled. I pulled the secondary, pulled the PTO side torque brace, and used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the steel crimp. Worked like a champ. With the location, the hoses needed to be longer, to make larger curves, and avoid crimping. Not really a big deal.


Here are some pics. Feel free to PM [Polar Express] with any questions.

P4062518.jpg


P4062519.jpg


P4062520.jpg
 
I'll get some efi fuel line, and a few high pressure hose clamps, and attach it to the quick disconnect, and the barb on the schrader valve.



I'm still not seeing the connector for the exhaust sensor, does it trace to the ecu?
 
good deal, take some pics of your final setup with the new fuel lines to help others too..

the exhaust sensor connectors are on the same wiring section as the one for the coolant temp sensor..there are 2 bullet conectors...they are usually hidden inside the wire loom...they connect right under the MAG side exhaust valve housing ;)
 
I found them!!

I've been working on M-sleds for 5 years now, and could take one apart and put it back together with my eyes closed.

This Polaris stuff is sophisticated, I should be drinking wine instead of beer!!!!
 
As for the kilometer/mile deal....If you play around with the mode button, you can change that back. I believe you hold it down for a few seconds (10) during a certain window reading and it should change. Mine does all the time when I'm playing around with it.
 
I don't see a mode button or any buttons for that matter on the gauge.

She is only running on 1 cyl, and had spark to both holes. It seems like it has fuel but is flooding the pto side. I reved it up to see if I could get it to clear, and it shut down, no spark to either hole now!
 
I don't see a mode button or any buttons for that matter on the gauge.

She is only running on 1 cyl, and had spark to both holes. It seems like it has fuel but is flooding the pto side. I reved it up to see if I could get it to clear, and it shut down, no spark to either hole now!

The button is on the switch assy on the left side of the handlebars.
 
Is this an 05 or 06?

If it's an 05, did you just pull the jugs with the motor in or did you R&R the motor?

You might want to remove the tank and begin searching for loose connections, connectors.
 
When checking the stator, I am putting the tester on 200 ohms, and checking the 3 yellow wires. The tester jumps and then settles on .5 between all 3 yellow wires.

Am I doing something wrong?
 
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