A bullet proof dragon?

[beamslayer]

I have just gone thru my second seisure and this time I am checking everything.Sent my injectors out to witch hunter had them recleaned and tested static flow is #1 206 cleaned 212 #2 218 cl 219 #3 213 cl 214 #4 212 c 215 pulsed flow cc @ 2500rpm #1 99 cl 104 #2 107 cl 108 #3 106 cl 105.5 #4 104.5 cl 106 cc/min @43.5 psi #1 636 #2 657 #3 642 #4 645 static variance before 5.5% after 3.2% Pulsed variance before 7.5% after 3.7% these are bosch injectors yellow dot #1 is the lower pto side which is the side that keeps going down on my 700 the readings are all low on that injector but with in spec to polaris so I believe. Pistons and cylinder bore here is a surprise. Mag cylinder 3.1888 Mag piston 2000 miles you can still see the coating on the skirt measured 3.179 at the bottom of the skirt = .0098 new piston 3.183 = .0058 pto cylinder from mellioum tech 3.189 piston 3.181 new last year maybe 300 miles= .008 new piston 3.183 =.006 notice the differents in the original pistons both are marked AB compared to the new style piston. Old style had narrow skirts on intake side and are a lot lighter in weight I think last year I weighed one and there is like 8 grams different. I was told by a dealer that they were for a short trac sled and you can no longer git old style pistons this year so I went with new style. old style #2203312 new style #2203512 had to heat piston last year to install piston pin new style slide right in both are built in Italy too much vino on old style.Checked pto seal I pulled a 25 lbs vac and also heated the area around seal no leaks also checked tb manifold at the same time.Pulled my fuel pump and checked lines all good next will be fuel pump pressure. Orded my PCV and will install dyno tech map. Dealer said no way to test ecu but can reflash for $20. Installing new filter in fuel line.So far this is what I am doing to make my sled bullet proof. With enough money and time you can make anything work .I am not sure what the heavier pistons will do to my rpms.I also have it well vented ,clutch is balanced, and the spider is back cut to allow shimming of the sheaves,exhaust valves capped off, coolent hose has shut off installed for tb, carls clutch kit. Pulled my wife sled clutch of to set up clearance and found the spacer and shim were installed backwards so we git to buy a new spacer and I allso back cut the spider .030 now it is at. 010 belt to sheave.So for all of you that are having troubles start doing your own work let adealer go hungry maybe there hands will be come untied.

 

[winter4ever]

1200 miles on my 09. slp silencer, and 2010 update, and clutching. only smokes a pair of hifax and i did break 1 motor mount. aiside from those this has been the best sled ive ever owned.

 

[800 Dragon 163]

1200 miles on my 09. slp silencer, and 2010 update, and clutching. only smokes a pair of hifax and i did break 1 motor mount. aiside from those this has been the best sled ive ever owned.

I wish I had your sled! It is good to hear that some have not had the problems..

 

[2blade]

2009 assault

Over 2000 miles and no problems, knock on wood!! Accept for spearing my track last night.

 

[Ski-Dont89]

the spider is back cut to allow shimming of the sheaves,exhaust valves capped off, coolent hose has shut off installed for tb, carls clutch kit. Pulled my wife sled clutch of to set up clearance and found the spacer and shim were installed backwards so we git to buy a new spacer and I allso back cut the spider .030 now it is at. 010 belt to sheave.So for all of you that are having troubles start doing your own work let adealer go hungry maybe there hands will be come untied.

can you tell me what you mean by cutting the spider back? i really need to set the belt to sheave clearance on my sled as i know it is way out of spec. i thought you could simply shim the spider using shims that you can get from slp etc.

 

[diamonddave]

Running higher octane won't do dick when it's too lean. You need to add more fuel. I am running EGT's on mine and had spots that would get over 1300 degrees. I put on a PCV this year and have added up to 15% more fuel in spots. So far the pistons look great.

This is what is so scary with the 800 CFI. 3 seconds of holding steady light throttle and EGT's shoot of the chart even with the PCV and as much as 15% added fuel in those scary areas. I could only imagine the guys riding their sleds down the trail all day enjoying the scenery.


I've talked to many about this and including the turbos and this seems to be the consensus. Keep adding fuel and EGT's are still scary although A/F's will change with the added fuel. Hmmmmnnn.


I added the bypass from SLP for mag side also. I've always added a pint of oil to each tank of gas. 1 brand of fuel and oil. Very long warm ups before clutch engagements.

I really believe the GIZMO guys are onto something as their reporting with coolant temps immediately after engine start up are exactly what mine are. My coolant temps drop 30-40 degrees immediately following engine start after a 5-10 minute break. This is as scary to me as the mid range EGT's. You can only wait for warm up so long before your buddies are 2 mountains away.

 

[beamslayer]

The spider needs to be backcut where the spacer and shim are in the center.You need to run a shim and the spacer make sure the spacer is in correct.The spacer goes on first recessed side against shaft than the .020 shim put clutch back together check for belt to sheave clearance if there is more than .010 clearance the differents is what needs to be removed from spider.I use .010 because the belt wears after the first ride.Always use a new clean belt.Shim pacs come in .020 to .030 from slp. Hope this helps.

 

[theshadowrider]

I guess I should mention I just ride mine hard and 0 problems. I put a camo extreme on it and its like adding 20hp

What did you do to fit the track? Did you change the drivers? Did you remove the front cooler?

 

[diamonddave]

What did you do to fit the track? Did you change the drivers? Did you remove the front cooler?

His sled is an 09 Dragon so no front cooler was in the sled.

I believe Camo has a direct replacement track that would not require drivers but I would replace them with the new Avids regardless and get rid of the POS stock drivers.

 

[Duvall Dean]

2010 Dragon 800 163 and 200 miles of FLAWLESS AWESOMENESS..

DD

 

[Flex600RR]

2010 800 136 switchy. 1700miles. She pulled 113mph and a seasonal road @8300rpms. All Stock. April reflash is very good.

Now, just got a clutch kit from sled werx and pcV with their trail map. let the fun begain

 

[rmkboxer]

What did you do to fit the track? Did you change the drivers? Did you remove the front cooler?

I did put avids on it, 9t. I got a package deal on the track, drivers and a alpha x suspension that I couldn't pass up. the benefits of the track is worth doing even if you don't do the drop and roll. I have not done it. you can run it with your stock drivers also.

 

[ragincajun]

i cant get my 09 D8 to pull over 7700rpm. got a new relfash the other day. runs fat...plugs are black. clutching is stock with 10-60s ground to 59 and it still wont pull over 7700 on the hill. gearing is 19-42

 

[thefullmonte]

Wanted to add that I had relocated a heat restriction from the voltage regulator. AKA capacitor. I located it right above the left side shock tower. It was almost like it was supposed to go there.

I also took a hole saw to the area directly below the voltage regulator. I placed just a small piece of foam roughly in the center of the electronics shelf leaving most of it open between the clutch guard.

Still not pretty, but functional.

 

[R44guy]

Monte,

Good job, that looks like a very nice mod that should help with the air flow to help cool the VR. I like where you moved the capacitor next to the exhaust valve soleniod on the cross support bar which besides the hole under the VR will allow additional air to move across the top of the VR as well. I only have three questions for you as listed below:

1. It is hard to tell from the pictures but did you drill and bolt the capacitor or clamp it to the bar?

2. I assume you did not have to extend or lengthen the wires or was there enough wire present to just relocate it and reroutethe capacitor?

3. Do you still run the plastic black shroud cover over the VR & ECU that holds the spare spark plugs and spare belt or have you left it off to help with additional air flow? I also was unsure if the shroud cover would fit properly over the PCV?

Now if we could just add some fan blades to the primary clutch and we could force cool the VR.

Seriously though I think I will be making the same type of change you did. Obviously external vents are the best way and most cost effective way to help with more fresh air not to just help cool the VR but to remove excessive heat from the primary & secondairy clutch system. I have not been ready to install a small cooling fan like some of the owners.

 

[thefullmonte]

1. It is hard to tell from the pictures but did you drill and bolt the capacitor or clamp it to the bar? I think that picture was a little deceptive. It isn't actually on the bar. I mounted it to the plastic fender. Just on the other side of the solenoid. This photo might give a better orientation. There is a flat spot where it fits perfectly. I remember one hole was pretty tight drilling into the shock tower bracket below.

2. I assume you did not have to extend or lengthen the wires or was there enough wire present to just relocate it and reroutethe capacitor? The wires had plenty of length.

3. Do you still run the plastic black shroud cover over the VR & ECU that holds the spare spark plugs and spare belt or have you left it off to help with additional air flow? I also was unsure if the shroud cover would fit properly over the PCV? No, I got rid of that completely. I always thought it was sorta hokey anyway. I figured it was surely holding heat too. I keep my spare belt and plugs in my tail pack. I don't remember if it fit with the PCV mounted there or not. That location sure is handy though.

Now if we could just add some fan blades to the primary clutch and we could force cool the VR.

Seriously though I think I will be making the same type of change you did. Obviously external vents are the best way and most cost effective way to help with more fresh air not to just help cool the VR but to remove excessive heat from the primary & secondairy clutch system. I have not been ready to install a small cooling fan like some of the owners.

 

[PMSPOLARIS]

FUNNY HA HA "Definition of Insanity"

Has your engine problem always been the same thing or has there been different problems.I would think if a engine went down 4 times for the same thing than they never fixed it right the first time. just my 2 cents.

I agree but it’s hard until something comes along to fix it! But the definition of Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again ad expecting a different result!

In this case everybody has had to wait until a fix comes along "THE FIX" by MTNTK sold at www.pmspolaris.com

 

[St0rm77]

so far, so good. bought the sled with 200 miles on it ( now got 800), had the dealer do the 2010 updates as a condition of the sale.
i primarily ride @ ~1000 feet; trail mashing and lake stuff.
5-6 times a year i go to valemount and revelstoke, and thrash the living hell out of it!
i've got an S&S rumble pack, PCV, and the rest is pretty much stock.

i did notice a pretty distinct difference in throttle response, engine temperatures on the trail, and of course, the decrease in fuel economy that come with the PCV..... but better a couple more bucks for go juice, as opposed to a complete rebuild or crate motor!!

just need more track, and maybe some boost.....

 

[thefullmonte]

Wanted to bring this thread back up. I now have about 700 miles on my Wiseco pistons. I just pulled the exhaust valves to take a peek. ZERO and I mean ZERO scuffing. They look brand new and the piston coating is still 100% intact. I know 700 miles isn't squat, but it's a start.
Not that it means anything, but I run Spectro Syn-Sno oil. The exhaust valves are surprisingly clean and my pump was putting way too much oil through there. I was using 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of gas. Not looking forward to the PITA of adjusting it. The stuff burns pretty clean though. Even the plugs look good.

 

[beamslayer]

I would like to thank thefullmonte for starting this thread.I have had a chance to put some miles on the 700 since the last rebuild and am very happy with its results.8300 on the trail and will pull 8250 to 7950 on a uphill pull .It has never done that.I believe tighter piston to cylinder clearances along with the pcv has helped and of course shinning up the exhaust port and conturing the y pipe did not hurt either.I plugged the ev back into the solinoid for now and removed the noss until I have more miles(the noss came off a doo I think it caused a virus thats the real reason why it kept seizeing ha ha ha) Heading for McCall in two weeks hope it stay together.