99 XCSP to Monutain Sled Build

[skis_n_skid]

Well from what I was told I should be good to go just from measuring center to center on the skid and making the rear bracket match that number from the front.

I realize that, I was just curious what measurements you used to determine your mounting locations (whether you used the measurements on the jbshocks site or something else). Since I used 8 lug drivers, I added 1/2 inch to the drive shaft to front mounting bolt distance when I put rmk skids in our sleds. When I set the track tension they both ended up at the back of the adjustment range with less than 1/2 inch left.

I wasn't trying to be snarky or anything, I was just trying to help you avoid a potential situation where you'd have to drill extra holes in your tunnel.

 

[xc_rider08]

sorry xrated, i been outta of it for awhile..

i will go home tonight and measure my mounting points. i dropped the front down a lil and movie back a lil.


what i did for mine is kinda like what skis_n_skid did. i put the track on and the skid in the track. used a wratched strap to hold the read of the skid in the sled whie the sled was hung from the rafters in the shed.

then i pulled on the read of the skid and made my track tight. i did a few minor adjustments to have extra clearance from the front of the cooler, and the cooling tubes down the center of the tunnel.


i have lots of pictures from this build i did.. if there is a certian one that u r looking for i can see if i have one close to what u need.

but my suggestion b4 u go any farther in this build u get the track u r going to use. just so that u dont make the holes in the front and read for the suspension and then go to put the track in and it wont fit.. now your tunnel is like swiss cheese and u lost alot of strength.

let me know what pics u need and i will get those measurements for you tonight after i get out of class

xc_rider08


also if u would like me too,. i could just starting posting pics while im bored here in class??? let me know

 

[HomeGrownRMK]

What I did for measurements on my lift...Track and skid out, built a template from 1/2" plywood 6" wide by how ever long it is from the drive axle to rear mount hole, notched the front so it would fit on the axle, then mark where the stock holes are. After that, I just rotated the template down (center of radius being the drive axle) so that the rear mounting hole was 4 1/2" lower, the template gave me the new front mounting location.
It now sits flat on the rear "tipped up" part of the skid with the rest just gradually coming of the ground until it finally bends up to the drive cogs. My thoughts on this (sorry about the long post) are that under a stock position skid the snow packs in under the front leaving the rear "tipped up" part grabbing for air. Under my skid, the snow keeps getting driven down from the front, all the way to the rear wheels, I think I'm actually using all of the track.

 

[xrated]

thanks guys.

I used 29 1/8, that was the measurements given to me by a couple guys who have done similar stuff.

 

[skis_n_skid]

thanks guys.

I used 29 1/8, that was the measurements given to me by a couple guys who have done similar stuff.

That's the center to center distance between the mounting bolts? What I was wondering is how you determined the drive shaft to front mounting bolt distance (the actual locating of the skid). The location of the skid can be tweaked front to back and top to bottom, but the center to center distance between the mounting bolts is basically written in stone for a specific skid and can't be changed or the suspension won't work properly. The distance between the mounts that someone else has only works for you if you're putting in the exact same skid

I'm not 100% positive, but I don't think 29 1/8" is the correct mount to mount distance for an xtra 10 (I think 29 1/8 is the distance for an edge skid). I believe the mount to mount distance for a 136 xtra 10 is 27 15/16. Have you seen the page in the link below?

http://www.jbshocks.com/x10mount136.jpg

 

[xrated]

That's the center to center distance between the mounting bolts? What I was wondering is how you determined the drive shaft to front mounting bolt distance (the actual locating of the skid). The location of the skid can be tweaked front to back and top to bottom, but the center to center distance between the mounting bolts is basically written in stone for a specific skid and can't be changed or the suspension won't work properly. The distance between the mounts that someone else has only works for you if you're putting in the exact same skid

I'm not 100% positive, but I don't think 29 1/8" is the correct mount to mount distance for an xtra 10 (I think 29 1/8 is the distance for an edge skid). I believe the mount to mount distance for a 136 xtra 10 is 27 15/16. Have you seen the page in the link below?

http://www.jbshocks.com/x10mount136.jpg

I have seen that. The guys who gave me the 29 measured out there xrta 10 mounts.

 

[skis_n_skid]

I just checked the mount distances on the xtra lite and edge rmk skids I installed. The xtra lite mounts are 27 15/16 inches and the edge mounts are 28 3/8. On the 97 133.5 xtra 10 I took off, the mounts were 27 1/4 (all center to center measurements)

From everything I've read in several different places the xtra lite skid is supposed to have the same mounting locations as the 98 136 xtra 10. Are you sure that measurement (29 1/4) is center to center on the mounting bolts? I would definitely verify that. I might be wrong but I don't believe that is correct. Of all the measurements, the center to center distance on the mounting bolts is the measurement that is absolutely critical that it's correct for the suspension to work properly (the plane angle is also important, but the mount to mount measurement is the most critical).

 

[xrated]

I just checked the mount distances on the xtra lite and edge rmk skids I installed. The xtra lite mounts are 27 15/16 inches and the edge mounts are 28 3/8. On the 97 133.5 xtra 10 I took off, the mounts were 27 1/4 (all center to center measurements)

From everything I've read in several different places the xtra lite skid is supposed to have the same mounting locations as the 98 136 xtra 10. Are you sure that measurement (29 1/4) is center to center on the mounting bolts? I would definitely verify that. I might be wrong but I don't believe that is correct. Of all the measurements, the center to center distance on the mounting bolts is the measurement that is absolutely critical that it's correct for the suspension to work properly (the plane angle is also important, but the mount to mount measurement is the most critical).

I'll send them a note and check

 

[xrated]

have the guy checking.

I dunno , I had the skid all set when it went in and it seems to be right in line with the front holes, just down.

 

[polari1man]

Any chance I could get the dimensions that you rare working with? Got a friend with '99 XC700 stretching to a 136, found a xtra-10 from a RMK-Gen 2. My numbers are different than what you have:

Front hole: 5.25" from top of tunnel
Back hole: 5.125" from top of tunnel
Center to Center on holes: 28.125"
Distance from Drive shaft: Don't have that yet

These were taken from my '99 SKS700

 

[xrated]

Any chance I could get the dimensions that you rare working with? Got a friend with '99 XC700 stretching to a 136, found a xtra-10 from a RMK-Gen 2. My numbers are different than what you have:

Front hole: 5.25" from top of tunnel
Back hole: 5.125" from top of tunnel
Center to Center on holes: 28.125"
Distance from Drive shaft: Don't have that yet

These were taken from my '99 SKS700

You are correct on the center to center...I was retarded and mistyped the info he had 28.125 center to center. I can check the distance from top of tunnel over x-mas if I get time.

 

[instigator10]

Here is my XC 151 conversion. I like it and it does great on trails also.If you need any measurements let me know.call 815-503-2282 Good Luck

 

[xrated]

well last time working on it I swapped out the steering post. Barley getting by with out needing to rerun cable and wires! Got a few pics on my phone.

Just waiting to get a track and slap the ace end all together. Anyone have clutchig tips for flatland?

 

[polari1man]

'99 XC700 stretched? How 'bout 10-62's and SLP Black/Red in the primary, and a HSP or EPI 50-34/50-36 Helix with Poo Blue/Silver on #2 hole. Stock gearing to start with

 

[xrated]

Late up date.

Sled now has skid and track, have some steering issues to fix.

Put in an aftermarket post and it seems somewhere along the way I never checked that the flange was going the right way. Long story short, I need a new steering rod connector and the flange needs to be broken off and rewelded on the opposite side of the post. As it sits I turn right and skis go left.

got a 151x2 Pol track, had to cut out every third window to work with my extros. Had great luck drilling out each corner of the window, scoring with a blade and if needed a whack from chisel and hammer.

Got the drivers and track installed (after taking the chaincase off to do this). Tried to fit the skid without cutting anything but the tips hit the drivers, so off to the cutting the rails went.

Now the skid fit right in.

I was going to use those jbshocks measurements like everyone harped on....I measured and they had my new skid mounting farther forward in the tunnel then the old 121 and I would have been cutting a whole lot off the rails again. So I said F it and just used the old front mounts for an idea. Ended up of course rubbing like mad on the tunnel coolers. So I dropped the holes about half an inch, still had some rub so I went another half inch. Looks like there is plenty of room now. Felt like there was something rubbing way up front so I will get a better look with better light next time to see if there is something....then I fix it or nip the nubs on the paddles. Any thoughts?

Then it was time to mount up the rear brackets, which were all ready on the skid. Uncollapsed everything from getting the skid in and was able to lower the tunnel down onto the mounts. Lucky for my drill bit everything lined up with the old mount location I had planned to use before so I just had to rivet everything in. Big thanks to KSH for the use of his air gun!!!!!

Here is shot of my angle

Just a couple shots

Obviously I still need to add an anti-stab kit (gonna shop the classifieds so I don't have to drop a C-note). Also need a new rear bumper and I have to figure out a tunnel extension. I have one from maybe a 98 RMK but don't know that it will be long enough to take the tunnel from 121 to 151 lengths. So I gotta see how that sits and plan from there.

Other then the steering SNAFU I really just need to add fluids and pull on it till she fires. Well and add scratchers and figure out how to add some traction to the boards.

 

[X2Freeride]

98 RMK extension wont work for a 151 its works for a 144 but just barely.


I also hate to tell you this since your already this far, I wish I would have seen this topic sooner, but your skid mounting locations and center to center are wrong.

First way you can tell is how the RTA is against the rear stops when the sled is sitting flat on the ground.

I have attached a picture of what you should have used for mounting points. 27 15/16 should be what your center to center is. Your running 28 1/8th, thats 3/8ths difference and when the skid is in the correct location that will take the RTA off the rear stops and help them sit in the correct location. So that being said your FTA should have been moved back 3/8 " when you moved it down. With the spacing your using when compressing the skid your probably going to get to a point when the skid is over half compressed where its going to bind. 3/8 might not sound like much but it really is and its going to give you bad results.

To clarify the Xtra lite skid and the X 10 136 skid use the exact same mounting point locations.

That being said there are two things that are CRITICAL when mounting a new skid to get it to work correctly. 1. is the center to center... It HAS to be 100 percent correct or the skid will not work right. 2. The location of the front mounting hole location from the flat edge of the drive shaft. This also HAS to be in the correct spot or as the skid compresses the rails may rub against the drivers or if its too far back there is a chance it might stab the track.

The other two locations... The location of the front hole and rear hole from the top of the tunnel is also fairly critical as well. Yes it can move up or down but you have to understand what its going to do to the skid when you move the mounting points up or down in the tunnel. I can elaborate on this if you want.

If your mounting was correct you should NOT have had to cut the front off the rails to get this to work.

Im fairly certain what you have will not work correctly and the sled is going to perform very poorly. I read what you wrote before about just saying F it or whatever but this skid is not going to perform the way you want it to if you run it the way is in the sled right now and its probably going to make the sled have a TON of increased steering effort.

 

[xrated]

98 RMK extension wont work for a 151 its works for a 144 but just barely.


I also hate to tell you this since your already this far, I wish I would have seen this topic sooner, but your skid mounting locations and center to center are wrong.

First way you can tell is how the RTA is against the rear stops when the sled is sitting flat on the ground.

I have attached a picture of what you should have used for mounting points. 27 15/16 should be what your center to center is. Your running 28 1/8th, thats 3/8ths difference and when the skid is in the correct location that will take the RTA off the rear stops and help them sit in the correct location. So that being said your FTA should have been moved back 3/8 " when you moved it down. With the spacing your using when compressing the skid your probably going to get to a point when the skid is over half compressed where its going to bind. 3/8 might not sound like much but it really is and its going to give you bad results.

To clarify the Xtra lite skid and the X 10 136 skid use the exact same mounting point locations.

That being said there are two things that are CRITICAL when mounting a new skid to get it to work correctly. 1. is the center to center... It HAS to be 100 percent correct or the skid will not work right. 2. The location of the front mounting hole location from the flat edge of the drive shaft. This also HAS to be in the correct spot or as the skid compresses the rails may rub against the drivers or if its too far back there is a chance it might stab the track.

The other two locations... The location of the front hole and rear hole from the top of the tunnel is also fairly critical as well. Yes it can move up or down but you have to understand what its going to do to the skid when you move the mounting points up or down in the tunnel. I can elaborate on this if you want.

If your mounting was correct you should NOT have had to cut the front off the rails to get this to work.

Im fairly certain what you have will not work correctly and the sled is going to perform very poorly. I read what you wrote before about just saying F it or whatever but this skid is not going to perform the way you want it to if you run it the way is in the sled right now and its probably going to make the sled have a TON of increased steering effort.

I can double check my measurements, I know I had a typo somewhere, so I can check.

However I measured out the driveshaft to front mount and it had the skid moving forward. Before I ever cut the rails back I was hitting the drivers with my rail tips and the front mounts, while not exact, were sitting awful damn close to where they are now and my rail tips were hitting the drivers anyway you put it. Also you say with the drive shaft to front being off I could compress and stab the track, is this really an issue if I have cut the rails and will be running an anti-stab kit?

Everyone I talked with said with running extroverts there was a better then good chance I was going to have to cut the rails to make it work. Not saying you don't know what you are talking about, but a lot of guys all said the same thing.

As for the 3/8" is this something I can accomplish by moving my front mount bolts back? To be honest I was comparing with XCs pics on here and it looks like we are close to the same level, only he went back a bit and I have no problem tweaking that to make it work.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[X2Freeride]

I can double check my measurements, I know I had a typo somewhere, so I can check. I know your center to center is wrong. 27 15/16 is what it should be 100 percent for sure. What you have is off 3/8 of an inch.

However I measured out the driveshaft to front mount and it had the skid moving forward. Before I ever cut the rails back I was hitting the drivers with my rail tips and the front mounts, while not exact, were sitting awful damn close to where they are now and my rail tips were hitting the drivers anyway you put it. Also you say with the drive shaft to front being off I could compress and stab the track, is this really an issue if I have cut the rails and will be running an anti-stab kit?With the rails cut no, and running a anti stab kit there should be no way that you will stab the track. How much larger are the drivers your running as compaired to stock? With the stock drivers there should have been no way that you hit them when mounted with the given location. If these drivers are larger than what stock was then I can see having to cut the rail tips some. When I wrote that at first I did not read the entire topic and see that you were going to run extroverts.

Everyone I talked with said with running extroverts there was a better then good chance I was going to have to cut the rails to make it work. Not saying you don't know what you are talking about, but a lot of guys all said the same thing. I didnt see that when I wrote my first reply. I appoligize. You should be fine cutting the rails as long as your extroverts are larger than your stock drivers were.

As for the 3/8" is this something I can accomplish by moving my front mount bolts back? To be honest I was comparing with XCs pics on here and it looks like we are close to the same level, only he went back a bit and I have no problem tweaking that to make it work. This is exactly what you need to do. Move the front mounting location back 3/8 of an inch. Leave your rear location where its at. Be mindful that you might have to move that front mounting plate back farther so your close to the middle of it. I dont know how much you moved it down the first time but try to use the location given in the in the spec sheet as your height location.

Let me know your thoughts.

I know its a pain in the A to drill new holes and move the FTA but you will be glad that you did, the skid is going to perform so much better.

 

[xrated]

For drivers I actually went from 9 tooth stock to 8 tooth Extros. Had to go to 8s in order to clear the front cooler.

I have no issues drilling new holes and I want to say I won't have to move the front plate....it will be closer to the edge but I think there should be room still to make me feel OK.

Thanks for the clarification.