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900 thermostat

won't warm up properly, get worse fuel mileage. run to cold in deep snow and could cause engine damage. If you think you have a problem with your thermostat or erratic engine temp just replace it. You can just pull the bolts out and swap it really fast and you won't lose much antifreeze. Make sure to put some rags under it to soak up what does spill.
 
Z-Man is rite on the money. I had to take mine out last season while out there, and engine temp wouldn't go over 119 degrees on packed-worse in deep-(a cold day here is -8c) and i have Rad delete. Fuel loaded up bad, no damage, but had to take it easy and continuous use would have led to it i'm sure. From experience i wouldn't recommend it.
 
If you have a couple seasons on your thermostat I would swap it. A bunch of guys on here have had problems with them. Mine broke last season and I had engine temps all over the place.
 
The 900's dont have a have big rear heat exchanger and if you have the front rad. delete the water will circulate to fast and like posted above it can run to cold or in my cause not having one when i bought mine that i didnt know about it can cause it to over heat to cause the coolant doesnt have time to stay in the heat exchanger to cool done.
 
I don't buy any of the last post. I have 3 900's. Had one since it was brand new. They overheated with the radiators in if you trail rode and they run cooler without the radiator both on and off the trail if you run scratchers. If the radiator is left in for trail riding the hoses need to be rerouted so the water flows through the cooler otherwise it takes the path of least resistance and bypasses the cooler and the sleds heat up. More than once I had to stop and help someone on the trail who had rented one when they first came out because it had overheated trying to ride it as a trail sled. Water moving to fast to cool doesn't happen on a 900.
 
900 Overheating

So I end up running in upwards of 160 on hard pack. I shut down and cool off when it goes over 170 and it can be a pain if there is no powder alongside the trail. I have cable scratchers that do put up quite a mist, but obviously not enough. I have read about this rad delete option and am thinking, what if the connection is simply cut and plugged so there is no circulation, before going in and taking out the Y and replacing it with a coupling. And the thermostat change... is it just a replacement of stock parts, or is there a different temp rating I should be shopping for? I doubt mine has been changed since new: I have not done it since owning the sled for 3 years. Thanks
 
There is a sticky on first page some where on this very topic and the CORRECT way of doing a rad delete. It is the only way to do it do not try to shortcut it!!!
Cable scratchers are a personal decision I had no luck with them where as the wire type worked much better !! 170 is not to high 185 or more is where I would definetley drop into the powder,stop and kick fill the track w/ snow.
You can use the old school toe drag method if you have to!? Deleted rad with SLP kit and had to re do it and it worked fine for 4k+ miles.
 
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