900 running temps

[ck3700]

Could somebody tell me what the normal temp range would be for a 2005 900 fusion on the digital display? I have a fresh engine, and was putzing around the yard with it, to start break in, and the display got up into the 170's.. The check engine light was flashing, but not the temp light, so idk.. Are you supposed to count flashes on the check engine light, to figure out codes? Or is that on the service light?? Coolant was full.. Gas is premixed 50:1, plus oil injection. Running boards nice and warm. Thanx for any insight.

 

[Himark]

155-160 pretty standard. Puttsing around is worst thing. It just cant get the cooling. I think it will go limp mode around 180???

 

[ck3700]

155-160 pretty standard. Puttsing around is worst thing. It just cant get the cooling. I think it will go limp mode around 180???

I was just trying to take it easy on a fresh rebuild, and not reef on it.. Do you think that the temp would cause the check engine light to come on? I figured that the temp light would come on first. I've got heat to the running boards, so I wouldn't think that there is an air lock..

 

[faulk222]

count blinks on light

temp is not to high to cause trouble at 170

 

[rmk2112]

With scratchers down on the trails and scratchers up in the fluff, my 06 700 ran 125 all day long

The only time it was higher was long, slow, tight trails thru the trees and on real hard icy conditions.

Putt Putting around in the yard will always create high temps, you need to have the track spinning to throw some cooling snow.

I've had mine to 190 before and the light came on, I believe it goes into limp mode at 205

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Im Michigan trail,, mine gets 165 - 175 on hard pack,, light does not come on.
125 - 140 on trail with some loose stuff on top.

Putting ,, ya,, you'll get 170's........

I threw a stud in cooler before,, while wide open suddenly went to limp mode, let off throttle and toggled to temp and was 235,, killed motor at about 90.........
That limp mode saved my motor,,,, otherwise i would have stayed WOT till pop....

 

[94fordguy]

125 is starting point and the ideal temp.

125-150 is common operating range depending on snow conditions.

175 is getting hot and you need to pile snow on the boards.

Somewhere around 210 the TEMP light will come on.

Around 225 limp mode will engage any time you are over about 5500 RPM.

Check Engine light will not come on for an overheated motor, you must have another problem.

 

[ck3700]

count blinks on light

temp is not to high to cause trouble at 170

Thanks for the insight guys, I appreciate it greatly.. I believe that the putting around, and low snow conditions we currently have : ( played a part. There was enough snow for the track to throw some on the exchangers in the tunnel, and that's about it. I just wanted to put the engine thru some heat cycles, to help break it in properly.

As far as the engine code, I was a little confused. I was under the impression that you counted how many times the "service" light went on and off to get the trouble codes.. MY BAD.. So it's the check engine light I need to count, duh.. I have never even seen this light come on before, until now of course.. I will run it again tomorrow, and see if the light flashing returns, and report back.

Just for information's sake, the sled has a full Dynoport exhaust, and now a Boondocker, that I just installed, to try and richen the factory updated fuel mapping that was installed in the ECU by the previous owner at the dealership. The Boondocker was purchased directly from Rich Daly at Dynoport, with a map in place. Would the Boondocker trigger this "check engine " light?

Thanx again to all who have replied, you guys make this sight the best place for 900 info on the planet!!

 

[faulk222]

Would the Boondocker trigger this "check engine " light?

not to sure about that never ran one but i can't see it turning the check engine light on as it is made to work with the ecm and if you were running a boondocker
1 you would not know if you had trouble
2 the light would drive you nuts and you would smash your MFD to stop it
i am sure someone who has run one can varify this

 

[Danbot]

I can't beleive how freakin hot you have to get a sled to make the check engine light come on, I am sure glad my 9 has a temp gauge instead of just a dummy light.
My sled runs mid 120's in the deep or on trail with scratchers down if I can keep a decent speed up. I never let it get over 150 when I'm going slowww on the sacked out whoops on the trail out.

 

[ck3700]

I can't beleive how freakin hot you have to get a sled to make the check engine light come on, I am sure glad my 9 has a temp gauge instead of just a dummy light.
My sled runs mid 120's in the deep or on trail with scratchers down if I can keep a decent speed up. I never let it get over 150 when I'm going slowww on the sacked out whoops on the trail out.

How would I keep it from getting over 150? Do you shut it off when it gets to that range? I just did a lil riding around the yard, approx 10 to 15 min worth, and I saw almost 190..

The check engine light did not come on, that I saw, but the idle was high, and did not want to come down, and wouldn't go into reverse without killing the engine, and restarting for a lower rpm.....

 

[defysgravity]

All good info and great response's.
But if you want to heat soak your new motor THE best way to do it is to put it on the track stand and vary your rpms until it get's up to temp. Several cycles of this technique is the most effective way to insure seating.

 

[guidoxpress]

do you have ice scracthers? you MUST have them, i run them every time i ride, no matter what...safe insurance for all conditions..and all of my sleds will idle at 125 degrees and ride all day between 12-130 degrees in powder and hard pack trails with scratchers down.

you need to count the flashes, you most likely forgot to connect a sensor when you installed your motor, it most likely has NOTHING to do with yoru coolant temp...

and i will bet you money you havent bled all the air out of the coolant system..it will take you a while to get the air out correctly, i bleed the bolt on the head at least 5-6 times at the house (with the nose up higher then the back) and then a few more times the first trip out sledding...and check the coolant every time you ride and top it off..it will eventually be set and your good to go...i just dont think you have taken enough time to bleed the air out yet.

my .02

 

[Danbot]

How would I keep it from getting over 150? Do you shut it off when it gets to that range? I just did a lil riding around the yard, approx 10 to 15 min worth, and I saw almost 190..

The check engine light did not come on, that I saw, but the idle was high, and did not want to come down, and wouldn't go into reverse without killing the engine, and restarting for a lower rpm.....

If I can't keep temps under 150 with scratchers down (this only happens if I am riding a whooped out trail that you can only go 5mph on) then, I pull over and shovel snow on the cooler and boards until it comes down a bit.

 

[jsledder]

I'll reinforce the opinions here..... On trails I'll see 150 in no time, stop and drop the scratchers (Slidekicks) and in whatever the conditions it'll run right at 125 provided I can run a little speed to keep the snow/ice chips flying.

I have experienced when the trails are slushy or it's a warm day, the spray will hit the rear tunnel cooler and start to build up and eventually form a big azz block of ice which will also create an over heating condition if you don't get that knocked off of their.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

How would I keep it from getting over 150? Do you shut it off when it gets to that range? I just did a lil riding around the yard, approx 10 to 15 min worth, and I saw almost 190..

The check engine light did not come on, that I saw, but the idle was high, and did not want to come down, and wouldn't go into reverse without killing the engine, and restarting for a lower rpm.....

125*c-135*c on good trails with the dead loop removal. Seeing yours is a 121" also I would recommend the dead loop removal. I posted a diagram and how to here http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281888

As for the check engine light you must count the flashes. When I first removed and replaced my engine I had the injector code. Turned out the connectors for them aren't that great, must be put on carefully or else the pins in the connector will push out which was my problem. Find out how many times blinking and check the connectors, if one is pushed out of male/female end then push pin back in and reconnect carefully.

 

[ck3700]

Thanx for all the info and help everybody.. I will have to check into bleeding the coolant again, as I only did it a couple times, with the nose up on the hoist.. The last time I rode it the ck engine light did not flash, so i'll have to keep an eye on it, if we ever get snow again.. : (.. Anybody got a link for scratchers? I've never had to use those on other sleds..

 

[05900]

Holz or SLP any sled rag or catalog should have an ad,personally had best cooling with the wire type mounted far forward in bogey wheel position. Flex type always a let down when conditions are bad.

 

[jsledder]

I sell both of types of scratchers, cable and rake type, I've ridden some very sketchy trails on "family days" and if the cable type works on my 166" to keep the sled at 125.... I'm impressed. Broke too many of the other ones to keep replacing them.