800r aero 66 build advice

[adam8781]

Been reading the turbo section for some time and want to build a 800r xp with a 66 aero kit from turbo performance. I have been building and working on engines since i was a child, lawnmower engines to high performance 2 stroke and 4 stroke mx engine and bike builds.

boosted sleds is uncharted territory but not something i am afraid of.

Just looking for wisdom on the build, it will be this summer so i can take my time. Looking to hit high 200s in the hp department

recipe

800r block balanced fresh everything
dual ring mcb or wiseco (leaning towards wiseco from experience, but ive heard alot of bad in the sled world?)
oil injection delete.
cut head for turbo
bmp y pipe
engine tech t-stat
egt and a/f (koso and aem)
weld up stock pipe and wrap it. or is there any insight on what pipe to run
clutch brace

66 aero kit from turbo performance, I havent contacted them yet but will just for some specs and info, for you guys with the 66 how far can you push it before its to far? looking Togo in the neighborhood of 12/15lbs


perks balanced primary, going to dj for clutching needs, oversize rollers etc



fueling, how many of your guys have gone to pipe pressure fuel systems? to me it sounds simple and less parts to deal with then pumps and regs. or is a reg still needed?

compression ratio, I want to push 12/15lbs so i know a cut head and race fuel is required, possibly av gas. (will also talk to big john at shr when the time comes)

closed loop water to air, i want to use the front tunnel cooler to keep boost temps at a reasonable level. Question is will the main tunnel cooler suffice to cool a turbo-ed engine?. long style cooler or barrel and if i cant make something fit i will fab my own out of aluminum and laminova cores. if the engine needs the front cooler, I will put a extra cooler in the tunnel or build one. with the headlight gone i will have the room i need i hope.

for now 2.5 ce 156 track (don't want a boring point and shoot sled)
skid, not sure yet. not sure if i want to do drop and roll for a 3 inch.


And on top of all that I'm toying with big boring it shr860. or bmp 880

alot of custom homemade venting, headlight delete, c3 steering post forward kit, all switches to console lots of goodies


When i build something i go all out



comments, ideas, advice, etc. I read this forum back pages and pages, just love this stuff alot of great info in this place.

cheers
adam

 

[Bendy]

Cool!

Sounds like you have a recipe for 270+ HP! Now to find a reed pedal that will handle 15lbs of boost.

 

[highmark00700]

If you are wanting to run 15#'s of boost I think you might be better off with a garrett over a aero. I could be wrong but if I remember correctly the aero will only support 10-12#'s on an 800 without running to high of shaft speeds on the turbo.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

yeah, your going to be really overworking the 66's at those levels, and IMO, i would step to a large garrett, you could make the same power on lower boost at that point as once you start pushing the 66, your just gonna be making heat and killing reed life, etc.

dont wrap the pipe, the stuff sucks, just weld and throw stock shell back on, works much beter. for doing pipe pressure you still need the electric pump and boost referenced regulator, you just hook pipe pressure up to it instead of off your airbox. if you need pics of a good setup i can get some, just did a clean setup from the hardware store and i think it ran like $5 in parts.

 

[swrev]

Definitely go pipe reference if you are plannning to run that much boost. Switched mine this year and am much happier w/ fuel pressure keeping up w/ boost demands. Still requires the same amount of parts though.

I disagree on the pipe wrap. Mine is holding up great and I get less fluttering. Not extremely noticeable, but it does seem to help before pipe gets warmed up.

Sounds like you are planning a really nice setup. Be prepared to tackle the suspension also. Still messing w/ mine without going aftermarket to find a way to keep the front end down better.

 

[taylorbok]

my pipe pressure works really good,

your going to destroy that aerocharger at those levels.

whats your plans for exhaust valve bellows?

double up your reeds and put on the reed boot braces/ girdles

 

[adam8781]

I knew from the start reeds would be a mess at 15lbs,

Aero has no listed psi limits that i could find, boost wurks has a aero 66 kit for the xp rated at 245+hp and 15 lbs. Ive seen 53 turbos on 800s that haul some serious mail. I was hoping the 66 could do big bore and double digit boost. (at over 8000 feet

we shall see

I have been looking alot at garret turbos and just don't want one (yet), its to many turbo options and housings options, Im afraid if i get a garret i will end up with a whole shelf of housing and parts from trying toget the most out of it, Not to say it wouldnt work very well, I just dont want that voice in my head telling me "you know theres still that other housing you havent bought and tried" i can see it getting pricey quickly,

Plus first time build, Like to stay as close to kit form as possible.


Pics of your pipe pressure systems and setup tips would be very appretiated! Pipes wrap is a must in my little brain, I have used it on so many different occasions to keep heat in, keep heat out. I imagine a good pipe wrap would help with spooling up and keep lag away.


Do you still have the stock skid SWREV? that must be a hand full, any luck modifying the stock skid to the point its tolerable or dare i say.. good?


the best ive found for the raves is the supreme tool ones.


reed boot braces, is that something i make or buy?


feel free to share build tips and picstures or anything you guys think is worth mentioning/

cheers
adam

 

[highmark00700]

Aero has no listed psi limits that i could find, boost wurks has a aero 66 kit for the xp rated at 245+hp and 15 lbs. Ive seen 53 turbos on 800s that haul some serious mail. I was hoping the 66 could do big bore and double digit boost. (at over 8000 feet

we shall see

I have been looking alot at garret turbos and just don't want one (yet), its to many turbo options and housings options, Im afraid if i get a garret i will end up with a whole shelf of housing and parts from trying toget the most out of it, Not to say it wouldnt work very well, I just dont want that voice in my head telling me "you know theres still that other housing you havent bought and tried" i can see it getting pricey quickly,


reed boot braces, is that something i make or buy?


cheers
adam

Turbo Performance offers reed boot flanges for $50. As for a bunch of garrett stuff being pricey, the aero is $2500 new. The garrett you could get a 2871 or 2876 for $1200. That leaves a bunch more $ on the table for other upgrades. I like the self contained oiling of the aero but I think you can get a comp turbo now from Turbo Performance that is also oil-less for a lot less than the aero. Just my .02

 

[utah_sledder]

Ditch the aero! I bought my turbo XP with an aero and it sucked. Bryce talked me into trying a garrett and have been smiling ever since.

 

[turbo800]

I had my 53 Aero setup on my 700 back in the day. When the 800's came out, I converted it over. I was told by some on here I would over speed the turbine as it was designed for 600 & 700's. It would make 12 lbs boost, there is also a stiffer spring you can put in the actuator to make 14 lbs. With that said, I never had any problems with it. I'm now using a automotive turbo. A properly size auto turbo will spool just as quick as an Aero if not faster. I didn't think the variable vanes was very impressive. If I was to drop coin and do it again, Garrett ball bearing all the way. If your sold on the oil less setup, go for the Comp turbo ($1600) still $900 less than the 66 Aero. The additional $400 over the Garrett might be pretty close when you consider no pump, lines, tank, fittings, etc. plus they come with a bada$$ billet compressor wheel

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

garrett gtx 3071 with tial exhaust and external wastegate, if you can keep it between your legs at 15# of boost i would be impressed, the aeros run good at lower boost, again, up there they are just not pushing the air you want on a 2 stroke. here is my theory, VERY well designed turbo setup with big *** turbo = much more power on low boost thus reeds, boots, pipe, raves, etc are much easier to keep from failing badly.

oh and a nice external setup on 800 2 stroke hits stupid hard down low. trust me. hopefully have a video up soon of the 30's showing what real throttle response is!

 

[taylorbok]

that is my pipe pressure location.

pressure regulator, the fitting above my pressure gauge is where the reference line connects.

the reference line I used is just a -4 brake line

when I talked to aero they said 8psi on the 53, and 12psi for the 66 an more than that they said I would over speed the turbo.

I put tial housing and billet wheel on my turbo spools awesome.

I bought reed boot girdles from tp, I also use the stm valves.

If you are building your own piping I would buy 2 of each bend. 135*, 90*, and U bend,

 

[swrev]

couple pics of my setup

 

[gus bohne]

you cant beat the 30 series on the 800 .. No turbo will come close on low boost or ,,,,,cant describe it,,, high boost ya thats it...

go garrett


Gus


And to all you guys following my lead on pipe pressure.. Thank you.. makes me all warm and cozy knowing you have fuel to match your boost addiction...

 

[swrev]

And to all you guys following my lead on pipe pressure.. Thank you.. makes me all warm and cozy knowing you have fuel to match your boost addiction...

It's fun to watch the fuel pressure rise so fast. No more fueling issues as boost builds. Fuel can keep up easily. No more struggling to get fuel at higher boost levels. Thanks Gus.

 

[rsaint]

It's fun to watch the fuel pressure rise so fast. No more fueling issues as boost builds. Fuel can keep up easily. No more struggling to get fuel at higher boost levels. Thanks Gus.

Are you saying pipe reference pressure for fuel regulator??

 

[swrev]

Are you saying pipe reference pressure for fuel regulator??

Exactly.

 

[Bendy]

Boost reference?

So if I change my reference from my charge box to my pipe, will I have to make any adjustments to my base fuel pressure. At an idle my fuel guage reads 4.5 PSI. Will I have to drop my pressure to 3 PSI? Right now I'm happy with the performance and It seems to run great right through the powerband with temps staying around 1150-1200F. If doing this will improve performance I'm in!

 

[swrev]

I had mine hooked to my carbs before, not the box, to see a faster drop in pressure. Drop seems just as fast off pipe but gain seems faster and appears to run 3-4lbs higher at peak pressure. It's been hard to look at the guages too much w/ the snow conditions we've had. Previously, mine liked 6lbs at an idle and no loading up issues. I currently am set around 4.5 at an idle now. Going to go lower and see how it does.

 

[rsaint]

Exactly.

I should also add is this just for the carbed turbos or all in general sure makes sense.