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800 Rebuild Questions

Rebuilding my 2004 800 Vertical Escape tomorrow if gaskets come, just have a few questions. How do you torque down the cylinder/case nuts since you can't get on them with a torque wrench, and what about thread locker on them?

My next question does anybody ever clean the little foam filters in the hood? I was talking with my dad, he works on a lot of chainsaws and weedwackers, he asked about my pistons and I said they looked good but there was some black on them on the intake side. He said this was from dirty air. What are your guys thoughts on this?



Thanks
Justin
 
bolts

No lock tite on the head and base bolts. A little pipe sealer under the head bolt flanges to keep them from leaking antifreeze. I have a box end wrench that I got from Western power that has a 12 mm on one end and a 14mm on the other with a 3/8 square drive in the middle. There is a formula to calculate the proper torque using it but I just use the recommended torque. Most important thing is to get them all the same. Also some times a U joint will work.

Soap and water on the filters. And make sure the air box is sealed to the hood and carbs so you don't suck belt dust.
 
I use a crows foot on an extension with my torque wrench. It's really tight on the middle nuts so you have to use a end wrench to make minor adjustments while going through the torque sequence. Always start light and work your way up to the max torque. The extension and the crows foot fool the torque wrench a little so go to the max of the torque range of the recommended setting.
Important- torque the head to the cylinders first then the cylinder base nuts (after just slightly snugging down the base nuts, I mean slightly). This insures a good head seal to the cylinder.
 
Got it all back together and put about 40 miles on Sunday. Our snow is going fast here in MN so figured I better get it part way broke in while I could. Sled ran great.



Thanks
Justin
 
I use a crows foot on an extension with my torque wrench. It's really tight on the middle nuts so you have to use a end wrench to make minor adjustments while going through the torque sequence. Always start light and work your way up to the max torque. The extension and the crows foot fool the torque wrench a little so go to the max of the torque range of the recommended setting.
Important- torque the head to the cylinders first then the cylinder base nuts (after just slightly snugging down the base nuts, I mean slightly). This insures a good head seal to the cylinder.

YOU CAN'T USE A TORQUE WRENCH WITH A CROWS FOOT.

THINK ABOUT THE LEVERAGE POINT.
 
If anyone has a better method I'd love to hear it. I've got another motor tore down now so if there is a better way I'd love to know. Like I said, the crows foot throws the torque #'s off that's why I always go a little beyond and then do my best to make sure they are torqued as close to the same as possible.
Dan, how do you do it?

Ken
 
The Snap-on crows foot has the multiplier stamped on it so you can get the right torque with it. You also have to make sure you line it up correctly.

sled_guy
 
Can't beleive you guy's never noticed the torque multiplyer on your tool:face-icon-small-win sorry had to.
 
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