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800 ETEC crank bearings

Wrenchmaster

Member
Lifetime Membership
Ski-Doo Yamaha Klim 509
4500km on my sled, probably not easy before I got it. 2015 XM T3
I finally got the clutch to pop off, it was crazy tight. Anyway I’m thinking this PTO side bearing is not going to last much longer. It cleaned up and didn’t look bad, but the inner race is spinning on the crank and the color of the grease tells me moisture must have gotten in and rusted something. I’m thinking a reman crankshaft and new top end since it’s probably getting close to needed pistons/rings anyway

E0F8FB61-71A2-45C6-8C62-37E5B2876557.jpeg
 
I'm thinking the same thing. I'm likely due for a top end anyway, so I got a reman crank and new pistons / rings. Thinking I'll weld the PTO side pin on the crank and true it up and it should be good
 
I'm thinking the same thing. I'm likely due for a top end anyway, so I got a reman crank and new pistons / rings. Thinking I'll weld the PTO side pin on the crank and true it up and it should be good
No need to weld the pin on that crank….. way better off un-welded

pin fit on a ski doo is awesome

Dan
 
No need to weld the pin on that crank….. way better off un-welded

pin fit on a ski doo is awesome

Dan
Awesome thank you Dan!
That'll save me some time then. We're in peak season, I'm on call so can't ride this weekend so I'm trying to get it all together by the time I'm off call.

Anything else I should do while I have it apart?
I noticed the coolant passages to the head are really restricted from rough casting, so I ground them out, hopefully it helps with cooling. Noticed the ports are rough too, so I've been polishing them up. I've got a BDX Y-pipe that's going on and a set of Boysen reeds
 
I'm reading that I can run 100:1 premix in the first tank and sun "Summerization" mode 2-3 times on startup to prime the oil lines instead of having the dealer do it with BUDS, can anyone confirm that this will be safe? I'm going to pre-oil up the bottom end on rebuild of course
 
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