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7.3 PSD, smoke on Cold Start

Just curious if it's normal for a 00' 7.3L PSD to blue smoke for a minute on a cold startup. Seems to only do it when it's about 40* or colder.

Starts up and runs just fine, glowplug relay is new, just curious if that's ok.. or if anything's about to go....

This's my first diesel.

She's got about 152,xxx miles on her
 
Yes It should be a little smoky for the first few minutes, that seems to be fairly normal if it blocks the view of your yard you might need an injector or two!!
 
You are fine. There is a gizmo called the Air Intake Heater AIH that clears the smoke up quickly yours may not be working. Not to worry most people toss it because it blocks the air intake. When looking underhood its on the left hand side into your alum air intake tube. You will see one wire leading up to it. Simply unhook wire remove heater, stand back in amasement on how freaking big it is and turn in a drain pan plug from a 5.9 cummins, yes its the same odd metric thread pitch and size. Slap some pipe dope on it when you turn it in to give it a good seal and then tape up the end of the wire you removed and zip tie it to something. Your engine will note a soft code but will not light your CEL (check engine light) if you ever run a scan on your truck it will note that the votage on the AIH is out of range...no big deal..

Good luck and welcome to the diesel addiction.
 
Thanks Joe, I appreciate it.

My truck was bought used... she's got a K&N FIPK intake on her, a Banks Bighead wastegate, and a full 4" exhaust with a straight-thru muffler.

I just wanted to make sure that's fine. She seems to start up ok in the cold, no worries... the Relay is working just fine for sure.

I did change the truck over to 5w-40 Rotella Synthetic for the winter. It seems to crank a LOT easier than running the 15w-40 variant of oil.

Now I just need a programmer for ol' girl. So far, even though she's ugly.. I'm really liking this truck.
 
Mine has done it since I've owned it (65k miles so far) but only when it's colder out.
 
If it smokes just about a minute at 40 degrees I would say you have a glow-plug going south. Mine did the same at 40 & below & I replaced them myself along with the wire harness/valve cover gaskets just for extra measure. Its just fine now. My brother works for a dealer out east & told me from his experience the glow-plugs last about 100K miles along with the transmissions on the 7.3 PS trucks on average. He was dead on with mine.
 
Your right on with the 5w-40 synthetic. Very smart move IMO. It helps so much with the injectors on the 7.3 and 6.0.
 
Your right on with the 5w-40 synthetic. Very smart move IMO. It helps so much with the injectors on the 7.3 and 6.0.


Yeah, it seems as though these oil-powered injectors REALLY like the 5w-40 synthetic. It starts easier, has higher oil pressure on my gauge, idles smoother, and I get better MPG.

No complaints there.

The aftermarket parts on the truck were on in when I bought it, so I've just left it alone. it only smokes for maybe 10-20 seconds at the absolute most. Nothing drastic.

I was just curious.

Shoot, I know it'll start in the 30's in temperature without "waiting to start". LOL. I got in once, and just slipped my mind to wait. lol.
 
I run 0w40 in the winter. The truck will fire @ -40f without being plugged in. It sounds terrible, but it fires!
 
I would ditch the K&N and get something else. DIY 6637, Tymar, AFE Stage 2 or Ford AIS.
x2. Replace that K&N with a DIY Tymar. A short piece of 4" exhaust pipe and a 6637 filter from the auto parts store. Costs very little, gives you a huge filter, and great filtering.

I would check your glow plugs and see if you have some that are bad. They are easy to check and it is a lot easier to change them while it is still warm out.
 
x2. Replace that K&N with a DIY Tymar. A short piece of 4" exhaust pipe and a 6637 filter from the auto parts store. Costs very little, gives you a huge filter, and great filtering.

I would check your glow plugs and see if you have some that are bad. They are easy to check and it is a lot easier to change them while it is still warm out.

Very easy to check all you need is a test light and unplug the harness and test each peg. It is worth while to do this because when one goes out they will all start to go south on you. You also have a glow plug relay, that goes bad about every two years if not sooner depending on which brand you buy (get a stancor). If you run around with a bad relay it will also cause your gp's to go bad quicker. Many people think they have bad glow plugs when in reality it is just there relay. While your in there replacing the gp's eventually you should also do injector o rings. Those also tend to go south around the same time as gp's. Just some info for future reference.
 
My 2000 did the same thing, all the injectors and glow plugs were the originals and I sold with just over 185k miles.

Another vote here for the DIY intake, I went to the hardware store and got a PVC coupler and that coupled the stock intake hose onto the big filter. Piece of cake.

Go to The Diesel stop or any other Diesel forum and read about it and many other little things you'll find yourself doing. The CCV mod is another one I suggest if it hasn't already been done.
 
Come on men where are all the pics???:):beer;

Mine has a tick over 185,000 on her. On start up @ 30 degrees or so it smokes a little not bad. The smoke is nothing to worry about with glow plugs it is how good it starts. Starts good not glow plugs. Like stated above the AIH is over rated. Chuck it! The only reason that they put it in there is for what you are saying about the smoke on start up. Mine is a early 99 dont even have it stock.

I will have to get a recent pick. I hit a deer and now it has a cowl induction hood.

Here is whats all done to mine. I run right at 30PSI boost after the intercooler with stock injectors.

Sorry I like the 7.3 cannot go wrong!

Early 1999 F-250
Mods:
AFE Stage 2 Intake (Pro Guard Dry)
Autometer Gauges (pyro, tranny, boost)
TS 6 Position Chip With Wildman Tunes
Banks Intercooler Kit
AMJ Performance Aluminum Intakes
Black Widow Bellowed Up-Pipes
GDS Ballbuster Turbo (91MM Compressor Housing)
Blank Turbo Pedistal EBPV Delete
GDS 3.2" Turbo Outlet Housing
4" turbo-back exhaust
HX Crossover Line
Fluidamper
Blue CPS
17* HPOP

747424048_l.jpg 747431904_l.jpg 747436914_l.jpg
 
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Very helpful information fella's! I'll be poking around under the hood a little more this weekend.

SHe's goin into the stealership next friday for the cam sensor to be replaced.


I also need to have them fix my rear brakes. The parking brake keeps adjusting itself outwards too far, and dragging. BAD. to the point that I went from 600 miles for a tank of fuel, down to 400-425 miles for a tank of fuel.

Getting under the ***-end of my truck, and un-doing the star wheels on the brakes is getting really annoying!! LOL
 
Gravy. Just had to order a water pump for old' girl. She's drippin coolant right on top of the crank pulley. Retarded.

So I just ordered a new one for $118, with all new gaskets and the supply and exit tubes.

Wish me luck!

:beer;:beer;:beer;
 
Gravy. Just had to order a water pump for old' girl. She's drippin coolant right on top of the crank pulley. Retarded.

So I just ordered a new one for $118, with all new gaskets and the supply and exit tubes.

Wish me luck!

:beer;:beer;:beer;

If you can change the waterpump yourself, you can certainly change the crank sensor yourself as well! Do them at the same time.
 
Im guessing the cps is being replaced under the recall still?

Yup. I'm gunna let them change the CPS, since it's a free replacement. :D

I'm gunna check on the cost of a new belt, and both main radiator hoses tomorrow as well. Gunna go ahead and change the thermostat while I'm in there, I hear it's a good thing to do. (easy to do while the pump is off)
 
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