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58lb. 162x16x2.5 Camo Extreme 3.0

Remove both inside rows of nubs, every other clip, drill one 1.25 hole down the center and be at 58 lbs.
 
How do yu remove clips?

I use a cut-off wheel and deep score one side of the clip from the inside of the track right where it starts to bend around the window. Scoring it deep enough will relax the "crimp" and using a large flat blade screw driver they pop right off, 40 minutes had the 162 declipped.
 
Don't forget the shavings from the hole saw and cutting off the inner nubs and you will be up to 4.5369875 lbs.:face-icon-small-hap Just messin with ya. I driled 3 1 1/8" holes in the center of my 174 x 2.5 and saved around 5 or 6 lbs.

LOL! Hey, it all adds up!
 
i dont think the weight you save by removing the clips compairs to the resistance your gonna have with the track running on the hyfax instead of the metal.. the metal clips will run accross them alot smoother than the rubber will... just me .02
 
i dont think the weight you save by removing the clips compairs to the resistance your gonna have with the track running on the hyfax instead of the metal.. the metal clips will run accross them alot smoother than the rubber will... just me .02

I have been running tracks like this for a long time and all I can say is I am very happy with my results for the snow conditions I ride in.
 
you probubly have been and its just like the weight savings.. your not really gonna notice it.. i used to do the same thing untill i got ahold of a engineer that designed tracks for camoplast... and me and him talked for about 2 hours. im sure your happy with it but it isnt rolling over them as easy as it would with all the clips. i know you gotta try to drop weight everywere you can, I ride a rt1000 so trust me i know about trying to loose as much weight as you can anywere you can.....
 
I agree there is a trade off here.......every other clip removed and a looser track adjustment in the deep has always worked very well............now on the trails..........better get out the scratchers for sure!
 
you probubly have been and its just like the weight savings.. your not really gonna notice it.. i used to do the same thing untill i got ahold of a engineer that designed tracks for camoplast... and me and him talked for about 2 hours. im sure your happy with it but it isnt rolling over them as easy as it would with all the clips. i know you gotta try to drop weight everywere you can, I ride a rt1000 so trust me i know about trying to loose as much weight as you can anywere you can.....

Reminds me of a very similar conversation I had with a Doo engineer about the offset mountain ski when they came out with it, best thing in the world and had a whole lot of answers to my questions and very good answers at that. Now we all know how Mountain riders really feel about those skis. Almost a carbon copy of the conversation I had with a Cat designer when it came to their parabolics.....No engineer wants you to change THEIR design, ever.

On another note, I remove every third clip or whichever pattern I come up with to keep the clips that are supporting the nubs, cut the ones that have no backing to them. Your right in cutting the nubs off that aren't needed....cause they aren't needed. Usually end up with a every 3rd clip gone.......drilled my holes and run only rear and upper idlers in my skid.....sled still rolls over a concrete floor with a push of the hand on the seat.......rolling resistance....not an issue for myself. Nor is it a stock sled either.

To each their own but rotating mass means a lot and while I do know that I've hindered the ease of rolling my sled with no wheels, I've also helped the track bend easier by drilling holes......am I ahead of the game or behind? Makes no difference to me as she rolls just fine. Plus there's a helluva lot less snow in my skid at days end versus one's without. So not only am I decreasing resistance, I'm loosing weight in how much snow I pack in my skid day in and out. Anodizing or powdercoating helps keep snow from sticking as well........it all helps.
My landlord is a riding buddy who is a draftsman and designs heavy equipment for lumber mills/oil rigs etc and used to ride a stock sled. Why, because the engineers at the factory made this sled 100% perfect. Clutching, gearing, suspension set-up etc. Do not touch it because they went to school for it and spent countless hours designing what we buy.....so do not change.....we all know how backwards that is. Now he rides a turbo that's lightened up as bunch as well....why? because the engineers didn't have "us" in mind when designing his 600lb tank.
 
Don't forget the shavings from the hole saw and cutting off the inner nubs and you will be up to 4.5369875 lbs.:face-icon-small-hap Just messin with ya. I driled 3 1 1/8" holes in the center of my 174 x 2.5 and saved around 5 or 6 lbs.


whta did you use to cut thos inner nubs off??

got any pictures??

o have to agree with the track clips and and loose track, been doing the same thing for years and have never had and issues yet. yes there is probly more frictions without the clips but this is a powder setup, lots of snow in the track to decrease the friction
 
whta did you use to cut thos inner nubs off??

got any pictures??

o have to agree with the track clips and and loose track, been doing the same thing for years and have never had and issues yet. yes there is probly more frictions without the clips but this is a powder setup, lots of snow in the track to decrease the friction

You wouldn't believe it.........a good sharp filet (sp) knife and WD-40, a quick trim with a single edge razor blade to clean up any little spots. Works great!
 
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