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511horse

The gearing is all stalk for now.
I took out the air filter and am just using the pre-filter.
I am going to add a four 1" holes with the slp flo-rites.
The light bar is a Cyclops Penetrator LED 600. It was easy to install. Just had to run a couple of wires. I also added a Rack and Chain case cover that my buddy Jim is building.
 
what happens it you take the o2 sensor out will that affect performance on the te 511

taking the o2 sensor out is part of the power up kit for the huskys and will put the ecu into race mode giving more power. You also need a resistor and a plug for the exhaust. No husky runs right untill you do this and run a pcv along with auto tune. also a dobek for the snow would be a good idea. I wouldnt recommend doing th power up with the stock exhaust only with at least a slip on if not a full system. I have alot of experience with huskys in supermoto trim I own two. But I have just purchased another to run in the snow.
 
Underneath the seat in front of the battery is the connector with two wires going into it. There is an insert available for around $20. By inserting this it will bypass the O2 sensor and put the bike in race mode. If not cut the two wires and solder them together this will do the same thing. You may have to fish the connector out stuffed under other wires. A couple of us are doing this along with running the FMF slip on and JD Tuner. For setting up the tuner we used a tune posted on cafehusky for a 2012 TE 511. After these mods the bike becomes a whole new animal. To help with the flame out or stall at low rpms crank the idle out to 3&1/8 to 3&1/4 turns out from fully seated. It is a large brass screw on the left side of the bike. As far as stalling goes shouldn't be an issue with the snow bikes and a little more aggressive clutch pull starting and stopping should work. For the JD Tune just Google "TE 511 dyno" and should be easy to locate under search results. There are definitely other programmers out there, but this seems like the most cost effective method to significant power gains.
 
Here is a picture of the O2 bypass connector with the cover insert removed. I was impatient and just cut the wires and soldered them together. For the air box remove the filter and cage assembly. Wrap the cone on the outside of the intake with the supplied prefilter and secure with zip-tyes or a heavy duty rubber band. For more air flow install flow-rites or drill small holes and cover with frog skins on the air box. To keep oil from getting in the airbox disconnect the crank case breather hose from the airbox and reroute it to vent in front or behind the motor. Then plug the breather hole on the airbox with a 3/8" vacuum nipple, available at most auto parts stores. Just some more ideas hope this helps.

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To Pedactor, awesome pics!, behind WF mountain? We were up on Stryker breakin in 511horses' bike same weekend.
 
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Just mounting my kit and I'm a little concerned with my track clearance or lack of it. The track is touching the drive chain. I can feel some resistance when spinning the track on the stand. I've got the standard 15 tooth sprocket that's the one that is supposed to work with the fit kit. The chain isn't all that tight and its new so Im sure it will loosen even more. Any feedback would be great!
Ive put a 13 on also to see if that would work if I removed a link but it looks like it that's not going to work either.
horse.jpg
 
A friend of mine replaced a link with a half link and larger sprocket on the chain tensioner. Now his clearance is well above the track. This concerned me as well setting up my dad's. According to Timbersled this was all within spec. As the chain stretches it appears this will take out the fingers on the lugs below the chain. I will be correcting this.
 
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