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3 in 1 welder

Has anyon tried one of these? Does anyone know if they would be decent for home hobby shop possibly to turn into a production shop someday?? Let me know

This is a THREE-IN-ONE Inverter Plasma Cutter (50 A) / Tig Welder / Stick welder (200A ). You would have to purchase 3 separate machines to do what this ONE machine can do!

Using this portable plasma cutter is cheaper than Oxyacetylene after just a few cuts. Less cleaning, less maintenance, less noxious gases, less fire hazard, simply less overall work and a better, cleaner cut. The torch trigger can be moved for a custom fit. It can be used in finger or thumb positions. Torch head is low profile for tight spaces. High Frequency DC Plasma cuts thicker materials than standard DC plasma cutters. High Frequency Plasma cuts faster with less distortion in the work piece.

It's packed with full features like the separate machines. The Tig welds from this CT520D are clean and strong. This Tig welder is easier to use than any other Tig welder on the planet! Just flip a switch, set your amperage and weld...It's that simple. This machine will weld Steel, Stainless Steel, Moly, Ferrous,

An ARC welder is a necessity in any industrial shop or home workshop. There are welding jobs that simply require ARC or SMAW (Shielded Metal Arc Welding). Stick welding is cheap and effective. Fill large gaps, holes, weld cast iron and weld extra thick steel with stick. With Arc welding, no shielding gas is required. In many ways stick arc welding is like MIG except there is no wire feed, you have to do that manually.



Product Overview

50A Plasma Cutter/200 A Tig/200 A Stick Welder Combo Machine CUT520D
Air Inverter with High Frequency
Dual Voltages 110/220VAC under 50/60 Hz
Maximum Severance Cut 1 Inch
Maximum Cut 3/4 Inch
Transistors (MOSFET) is made by Fuji, Japan. And cooling system is made by German company
FREE Torches and FREE Initial Plasma cutting Consumables (35 pcs)
3 Year Warranty in both Labor and Parts from a trusted U.S. Company
German Cooling Fan.
 
I would be a little hesitant of that....I have been a pro welder for 15 yrs on my own. Miller trailblazer 302 Diesel, Miller maxstar 150 STL tig box, Lincoln LN-25 portable wire feeder (running mostly flux-cored) works 4 me!:D:beer;
 
First, all TIG welders are ARC welders also. TIG and ARC both use constant current power supplies. You just need to have the right cable/stinger, and turn off the high frequency start.

A 200A TIG welder, on 110Volts would pull about 170 amps. Doubt you have a plug for that. So, that seems weird.

plasma is a lot like TIG, except it requires a higher voltage than a TIG powersupply will generate.

I notice they didn't mention Aluminum Welding, probably means it doesn't have AC mode. You'll want that.

I never heard of anyone needing a high frequency start on a plasma cutter. They don't work that way.

The MOSFET was invented in 1960, not sure why their making a big deal out of that. Guess their pointing out that there not the cheap China Power MOSFET.

There's no difference in their fire safety. I guess you can't blow a plasma cutter up, if you over pull the acetylene tank. Hint: don't point it at wood or paper, when you cut.

I really don't know why all TIG welders don't come with a Plasma option. It wouldn't be that hard to add. I think, in ARC mode they generate enough voltage, you'd just need a air regulator/valve, and maybe some wave shaping technology. In truth, the way the output voltage and current is controlled these days, there's no reason all welders couldn't drive any device. The combo, MIG/TIG/ARC welders are becoming very popular. Jusr requires a lot of add-ons, to get it to do it all.

Another nice thing to have in a TIG welder, is pulse mode, and cleaning (duty cycle) settings. Don't see that.

BTW, I think that's the same price for a new one of those welders. Google around. Some people say that the Riland combo welder is better, and about $700. Sounds like someone is making money. Don't forget the cost of a Argon tank, and Argon, when your thinking about getting into this.
 
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Rev I totally agree that your gear is top notch!! However it is not even in the realm of logic for a back yard hobby shop to buy 50k worth of welders. This would never be used as a full production unit. Just something that would be used to fix some broke parts and maybe weld up some new ideas. If any of the ideas ever took off and made some money then an upgrade would be in order. I was just curious if this would work as advertised as a home hobby shop?? Thanks for the response. Oh by the way I would LOVE to have all of your welders!! Maybe someday!
 
Wade thanks for the reply great info without being condesending. I do however have plenty of power in my new shop. 4 different 230 amp outlets. I will look into the Riland combo.
 
Wade thanks for the reply great info without being condesending. I do however have plenty of power in my new shop. 4 different 230 amp outlets. I will look into the Riland combo.

Not saying you don't have enough amps. Just that part of the spec sounded weird. I'm sure you'd use 220 volts anyway. Let us know how it works. Let's face it, there's really not that much to a welder. There's more technology in a inverter (one of those battery power to 110 Volt AC converters). And, they cost like $70 now. Later.
 

Yep, that's the one I was talking about, repackaged under another name.

Looks just like a riland: Riland 160P

Looks like a lot of controls, but that's OK. You'll find a pulse frequency you like, and never touch it again. Same for cleaning level. And Fall slope, and gas pre and post flow.

I see the ARC stinger (that's nice they are usually extra), the TIG head with finger control, the ground clamp, foot control (most people use that in TIG), and what looks like a plasma head with finger control. Looks like it will do steel and Aluminum. I don't see a DC polarity switch, but I never use the other polarity myself.

I see where the Argon Gas connects to the main box, so the valve is in the unit, but where is the pressure regulator and gauges (pressure and flow rate) for the Argon Gas Bottle? There's a regulator, but it looks like a air regulator, not a bottle regulator. You'll need one with a bottle. You might ask.

Only thing you'll need to get going, is welding wire, and tungsten rods. All real cheap. Read some about the difference between tungsten for steel, and tungsten for Aluminum. Most people use zirconiated for aluminum, and pure for steel. Don't get too hung up on tungsten electrode thickness, or the diffuser cups/nozzles, or anything. Just start with a medium size everything. Might want to take the TIG head with you to get the right thickness tungsten, for the parts they included. And, don't worry too much about having a perfectly ground tip, just make sure its clean. (you'll accidentally touch the puddle with the tungsten) Just throw it in a drill, and run it against a grinding wheel, and wire brush. You'll work your way into it. I like thin welding wire, but get some different thicknesses. Something the size of coat hanger, is pretty thick.

Just start with steel. You'll have enough fun getting the hang of that. Don't try to start with Aluminum.

You'll need a welding helmet. I've actually gone back to a plain old cheap helmet. Don't like the auto helmets as much. And, if you do get a auto helmet, get one rated for TIG. There's a difference. And, don't go playing Orange County Choppers, and tacking things without your helmet. Burn your eyes out. You'll know, cause they itch. And when your playing with TIG, cover every square inch of exposed skin. You'll get the worlds worst sun burn if you don't. (the physics behind this is cool) And, don't weld on galvanized steel, in the house. It puts off a green poison. And, your fire alarm will love the plasma torch. Oh, and don't lick red hot steel. :) Sorry, started brain dumping all the stuff I learned the hard way.
 
Wade thanks for the reply great info without being condesending. I do however have plenty of power in my new shop. 4 different 230 amp outlets. I will look into the Riland combo.

Be careful with a 230A outlet - that is more juice than most of us have to our house meter base. I don't envy you buying the plugs for that.

Volts x Amps = Watts

Welding is usually done ~20V
Supply Outlets are either 120V or 240V (Assuming single phase only)

So if you are looking at a 150Amp welder that plugs into a 240V circuit then your draw at the plug will be 12.5 Amps if it was running on 120V then it would take a 30A breaker (mathmatically 25A but none of these machines are 100%)

In concept this is a good sounding idea to me because so much of these units are similar transformers and the like but if the big names aren't making a similar unit there probably is a reason. If you are looking to actually make money with the equipment then I would stick to the big name suppliers that have product support network v. a 'deal' from some no name outfit made in china.

My personal equipment is a Millermatic 210 and have the spoolmate 3035 for alum and stainless. I will buy a plasma before I buy a TIG for my next bit of spark making tooling.
 
I assumed he meant volts. You'd need a 4/0 or 3/0 wire to carry 230 amps, it'd be 2 inches in diameter.

The specs call for 160 amps @ 28 volts / 0.90 efficiency = 5 KVA, or 22.7 amps @ 220 VAC. Whatever, I'd just use a 50 amp wire (6 gauge) and plug.

Conservation of energy. You can transform amps to volts and back, but when you add up all the energy, it better sum to zero. 5KVA in = 0.5KVA loss in heat (efficiency) + 4.5KVA in welding energy.

As cheap as these electronics are to make. My guess is there's a whole plasma cutter, shoehorned into the box. Would probably be more cost effective to just take an existing plasma cutter electronics, and mount it in the box, than "integrate" it.
 
I agree with wade! Oh and $50K worth of welders? Trailblazer ran around $7500, Maxstar 150 STL was $900, LN-25 was $1700. Just so you know, I started mobile welding in 95 and had to start my welder like i start my sled, with a pull rope. YOU CAN DO IT!...Rev
 
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