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"$28 Upgrade" parts list

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I am hearing about rubber degradation with the NAPA cap and apparent leakage on installs without a plug installed. There must be a compatibility problem with the NAPA rubber and the anti-freeze. Please accept my apology for not foreseeing this problem. The cap from NAPA is designed for this type of application.
My concern, with the first install, was the possibility of the cap coming off under pressure with the use of a light tension CT clamp. My thought process concluded a plug must be installed for safe measure. It may turn out to be a key piece to the install. I made the plug out of delrin. The kits from Rodgers Sport Center have them. If you make one be sure you put a shoulder on it so it doesn't migrate into the thermostat housing.
I'm on the road, and don't have the dimensions with me. Make sure it fits snug, needs to be pushed in.
 
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I am hearing about rubber degradation with the NAPA cap and apparent leakage on installs without a plug installed. There must be a compatibility problem with the NAPA rubber and the anti-freeze. Please accept my apology for not foreseeing this problem. The cap from NAPA is designed for this type of application.
My concern, with the first install, was the possibility of the cap coming off under pressure with the use of a light tension CT clamp. My thought process concluded a plug must be installed for safe measure. It may turn out to be a key piece to the install. I made the plug out of delrin. The kits from Rodgers Sport Center have them. If you make one be sure you put a shoulder on it so it doesn't migrate into the thermostat housing.
I'm on the road, and don't have the dimensions with me. Make sure it fits snug, needs to be pushed in.


Guys i ended up tapping that port with 1/4 NPT and threading a 1/4 plastic pipe plug in there i have pics but am to dumb to post them if some one sends me their email i will send them to you. The plug tightens up nice and tight.
 
Another option for plugging the unused port

I have found a few other options for plugging the unused port on the BRP thermostat.

My local hardware had some 1/2" PEX test plugs made by Zurn that fit nicely into the port. It is a shouldered plug with grip ridges and fits very well. In the event that the one cap failure was not a fluke these are an option for those that do not have access to a lathe. I will be providing the Viega # 43723 (Vendor substitute for Zurn part number QXP3XP with all my future kits. Those that have bought the parts from me please PM me so we can validate what parts you need to get to complete the upgrade. If you have already installed the kit from me, PM me and I will include a new clamp and cap just to be certain there are no issues down the road.

As for my already sold washer kits, for an additional $5 I will send the plug when they arrive and eat the postage. For future sales, I will include the plug with the washer for $15.


For those wanting to source their own parts here are the part number from my research. Note I have only had the QQP3GXPK1 in my hand but the other three are dimensionally similar and designed for the same purpose. So they all should work equally well, the brass ones being heavier and adding a few extra grams (I can weigh both soon).

I crossed that part number and got two other possibilities;

Zurn part number QXP3XP (This one is Acetal-the same family of plastics to which Delrin belongs)

***NOTE***This one is far more commonly available-
Viega # 43723 (still the same acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams)

These are the heavier brass style like the attached link
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)

Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)

After further review: It appears any Test plug designed for 1/2" PEX is a good fit for plugging this port. The advantage of this is they are typically about 50 cents at your local Hardware or Plumbing and Heating store, once you know what to look / ask for. So for a few grams and a couple of quarters, there is no reason not to install one of these to safeguard from any potential failure point in the backcountry. Just my 2 cents!
__________________

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SIOUX-C...128?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230a924f80
 
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I installed this thermostat last season and got about a 1000 miles on it without a plug with no issues. I'm not condoning to not use a plug but that's my experience.
 
Thanks for the info LH I will be heading to the store and get me some of the pex plugs and a new cap .
 
Hey Brent - my kit is scheduled to be delivered today - thanks. Does my kit include the upgrade that you mentioned in the post above?
Thanks,
Larry
 
Read through all the posts n the original thread, can someone explain how this setup allows the engine to run cooler? Is it just simply a larger thermostat housing and opening?
 
Likker and others,

The temps are handled by three improvements over the Polaris Thermostat.

First is a lower opening temp from memory 90 degrees but I'd need to re-read the original thread to verify that.

Second is more flow, a bit more than double from memory. Again would need to check the numbers in the original thread.

Third is the bypass function of the BRP thermostat, that combats the cold shot in hot restart situations, as the BRP thermostat is letting some hot from engine and cool from coolers mix before re-entering the engine.

At least from what I've read that is the benefits as I understand them. By keeping the engine below 128-9 degrees F, you avoid the ECU pulling timing out and adding cooling fuel. Thus retain max available power in marginal snow conditions which the stock setup just can not do.

Hope that helps

BigRock, I sent you an E-mail, your plugs will be in the mail today. As soon as I wrap up a couple things here at work.

MH- your plug update will go out today as well.
 
Thank you for the recap!

What is the price on a complete kit? I've seen a few numbers kicked around.....
 
NO DICE! Interference and clearance issues

PLEASE disregard post, when I got a chance to mock it up. There is not enough room, sorry to have gotten your hopes up. As TRS has laid it out, seems to be the best spot. Just be certain to heat tape at least the pipe side.

As time allows I may be able to form a thin aluminum heat shield for it (likely next summer though).
 
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The ZURN QQPP3XNPK1 is a good fit and highly recommend. Thanks LoudHandle.
I will add it to the parts list.

image.jpg
 
Don't hesitate to give Chuck a call on the kit (phone # listed first post)
I can't run around town for the price they are selling them (shipping is extra.)
Hot item, comes with all the parts listed in post 1.
 
Can someone tell me what to torque the thermostat housing to, after I remove the polaris thermostat? Should I put any type of sealant on the bolts?

Thanks.
 
torque for the T-stat bolts is 9 ft lbs (12 n-m) and not sure on the bolts for sealer, I would not think so because of the use of an O ring gasket.
 
For the boys and girls in B.C. I picked up my parts today. The NAPA parts list. In stock at the local warehouse $53.74 + tax. The BRP parts. Thermostat in stock, Tee 2 days $39.00 + tax. Pex plug Home depot in stock $.89
Install time
 
For the boys and girls in B.C. I picked up my parts today. The NAPA parts list. In stock at the local warehouse $53.74 + tax. The BRP parts. Thermostat in stock, Tee 2 days $39.00 + tax. Pex plug Home depot in stock $.89
Install time

That is far cheaper than MY COST here in Alaska!

I'm out of business, if those are the prices you guys can get in the lower forty eight states and even in Canada.

Thanks to those that got kits from me!

I'll use up my inventory on my own builds.
 
Sorry Loudhandle that wasnt my intension. Just saw some other Canadians saying they are having trouble locating the parts.
 
Just thought I would throw this out there. I put the kit on my new pro this week. Be careful to closely inspect where the can will be in relationship to the new thermostat housing. I was looking at the upper hose from the head and trying to keep it relatively in line. Well it looks like you have all this nice room to work in. Turns out when you put the can back on it gets really close to the new thermostat housing if you aren't careful. I heat taped the heck out of the new housing and cut my upper hose shorter to pull it towards the engine. Just a heads up about measuring twice and cutting once and double checking where the can will be when assembled.

Thanks TRS great mod and thanks Polaris for being smart enough to engineer a can you can remove without removing the pipe. Oh yeah and a hood and side panels that are decent to get off.
 
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