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2016 track on 2012 pro?

You will need to go with 7 tooth drivers and mod the chaincase. After the 7 tooth it will probably need a gearing and clutching change.
 
Since you cant buy the 2.86" pitch, 7-tooth Drivers alone from Polaris... you will need to go with the Avid drivers.

You will need the drivers, and the chaincase mod (Fastrax does this)...

De-bond and removed the chaincase, mod the case, re-install with Lords-406 adhesive press on the drivers, install the track and have some fun.

The stock gearing will be improved, IMO, with the switch to 7 tooth drivers... the clutching, you'll have to decide for yourself...but there are many options.. one of which you may already have on your sled.

For the drivers...
You can go with the Center drive 7-tooth from Avid
CLICK HERE
Polaris%20ctr%20dr200.jpg


OR, IMO a better way to go...The "power claw" style Combo drivers... trim the rails and run an anti stab kit.
CLICK HERE
2011pol9%20002200.jpg


SKADI on the forums here (Emily Moreshead) was the first to do the chaincase mod in collaboration with Fastrax.
From a previous thread:
an 7-tooth, 3" pitch driver gives about .3" additional lug-tip clearance with the same track... ie.. a 2.86" pitch 2.5" lug CE track with 8t drivers will have .3" less clearance than the 3" pitch 2.5" lug CE trck with 7t drivers.

You will need to remove and modify the chaincase to allow for the 7t drivers however.... FTX has these cases on Exchange with the mod done or will do to yours on request.

You will also need to get the adhesive and gun to bond the case back onto the tunnel (important)

Skadi:Since Allen was doing my skid swap I thought I would have him do my track swap as well. I decided to go with the new Peaks track from Camoplast and it wasn't quite as simple as just a track swap for me!! Due to some of the conditions we're forced to ride in here in the beautiful Northwest we thought it best to give my sled just a little more clearance through the tunnel. The 2.5" track with the stock drivers was TIGHT!! Allen and Curt with Fastrax and Eric (Mtnhorse) thought long and hard about the BEST way to go about this. There were a few ideas and we decided to go with the cheapest first since we all know we're all watching our pocketbooks these days!! The solution was to mill out a portion of the chaincase so that smaller drivers could fit! Easy!! (well, easy for a shop like Fastrax to do!!) Curt advised Allen on the best way to do this so that it could be done quickly but in the future if I need to do this I will send it to Curt as he's getting himself fully set up to have this milled and to turn it around quickly!


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From another thread.
Also...When moving to smaller drivers... you will need to keep an eye on the track nubs rubbing on the top of the front arm of the rear suspension.

Also... even when you run new Avid Extroverts.. you need to run factory tension on the track... loose tracks don't run well as correctly tightened tracks... and dont last as long.

Wahl Brothers... $47 ... popular with the 7tooth driver crowd.

http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=19740&cat=319

"Track Carrier"



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Just wondering if anybody's checked if these are rubbing.

The only place that shaft could go would be 1 3/8" in front of front of torque arm. It might be close when rails come to top. But how come no one else installs these when doing a 7 tooth driver.

Is there any other spot that it wouldn't hit susp. arms?




FF, I can see where your confusion comes from... but NO WORRIES.

It goes aft of the front suspension arm... The wheels are almost out to the edge of the shaft... maybe 3/4" in from the inside of the tunnel.

Remember that the down tubes of the front swing arm of the rear suspension taper inward towards the rails... and that there is a space between there and the tunnel.

The cross shaft of the Wahl track carrier mounts aft of there and the swing arm does not come into contact with it.

You can see in the photo where Allen Mangum of Timbersled products mounted this "Track Carrier" in his sled...The red arrow points out the button head 316SS screw used to mount the shaft in the tunnel.

ALL 7 tooth driver equipped sleds that have the stock suspension and drive train will rub on the wear bars on the arm...Weather people see it or not...It's there.

attachment.php
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Will a new 2016 track, not the 3", fit on my 2012 pro or will I have to make changes to make it work?

There are lots of mods you CAN do.
Not necessarily NEED to do.
The series 6 2.6" track will fit directly into your sled without changing anything.
Run factory spec tension ( tight) to keep from slapping the tunnel coolers too much.
At that time you can decide if more/better improvements are needed.

On my bone stock 2011 pro there was 3/8" clearance at the tightest point. (Above the front suspension bolt)

It might not be "perfect"
But it will definitely be an improvement.

Only you can decide where the "good enough" point is on the modifications list.
 
Heres my OPINION...

I agree that things can be over-thought... getting a track to "fit"... and having enough clearance for it to be a performance improvement over the series 5.1 is the question however.

The stock 2.4" track in your sled barely has enough clearance... and the factory, with the AXYS-Mtn sleds, corrected that to a certain degree. The new sled gains clearance with the .23" longer C-2-C distance on the jack/drive shafts... and running a smaller driver (just a hair under 1" smaller diameter) ....That is how the 2.6" track runs so well in the AXYS.

But as SMF said... the track will bolt in on your sled..but will have considerably less clearance than the AXYS chassis that it normally comes in... Just under 3/4" less clearance than the same track has in the AXYS.

Do you want the track to be a true "upgrade"?... or just to be able to say that you have the new track??.... IMO... give it the clearance it needs to work well.

Here is a great write-up by TRS about the 2.5" track in the same sled we are talking about here... and more clearance seems to help out.... the new track has even less clearance than the 2.5".

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374678




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A couple of pics of your 2.6 install clearance on the 2011 coolers and bulkhead would be most welcomed here by everyone. Pictures are way valuable on this topic.
 
I used a piece of quarter inch baseboard for a reference. Pictures are so so but from the top of the paddle to the cooler there is at least a quarter inch clearance to the tunnel cooler. The board extends right to the front. I think this should be enough clearance but if I do have issues I think I might trim the outer paddles down. Hope these pics help.

20150916_151739.jpg 20150916_151455.jpg 20150916_151226.jpg
 
I used a piece of quarter inch baseboard for a reference. Pictures are so so but from the top of the paddle to the cooler there is at least a quarter inch clearance to the tunnel cooler. The board extends right to the front. I think this should be enough clearance but if I do have issues I think I might trim the outer paddles down. Hope these pics help.

Nice!
 
Good pics... and good use of a gauge!

This is about 1/2" less than the same track in the AXYS sled ... so it will be interesting to see how these tracks work in the PRO-RIDES.

Thanks for taking time to post up the photos.

Keep us in the loop!
 
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Fugly27, are you running stock gearing? If so, you have an even better reason to gear down from 20:42 to something like 19:43 or 19:44 turning the longer lugs.
 
So fugly27. How is the track working? Did you end up trimming the edges?
The track works great, there hasn't been any track scrubbing. Hooks up noticeably better than the 2.4, in deep powder it gets on top of the snow quicker. All i can say is that I am extremely happy I did the upgrade it has made my old sled feel alot more fun to ride.
 
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