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2013 XM clutch question

Remove threaded inserts in clutch pins and run it or talk to winterbrew on here about a clutch kit.
 
They come from the factory set for 6-9K ft. elevation on clicker 3-4. Target RPM is 7900 +/- 100. Try the stock clutching and if you're running less than 7800 RPM on a powder climb on clicker 4 you may need to remove some weight. Make sure you have at least 100 miles on your sled before making any weight changes. My sled gained 2-300 RPM by the time I had 100 miles without changing anything. May gain even more RPM by the time the break-in program is finished.

By the way, I'm running Rooster Built clutching and gearing on my XM. If you're not happy with the stock clutching I highly recommend it.
 
thanks all, there is no question about going to a clutch kit, I was curious if most are running hollow pins or have the set screws in. Mine seem to be in with loctite...is this normal and how do you get them out if they wont budge!!!
 
loctite

Yes it is totally normal to have them loctited. It is a mess if they backout!
gently heat with a propane torch the pin, after it is taken off the arm until setscrew starts to turn. The heat softens the loctite.
Cheers
 
im at 3000 feet to 8000 feet with all the pin weight out on klicker 2 with the sled fully broken in at 500kms and it is rocking! i left the pins in the rollers, threw the heat gun to it and backed out the set screws with a small allankey. SAVES YOU FROM TAKING THE ROLLERS OUT!
 
I'll be honest I'm a little confused by some of the responses regarding pins and rollers,etc.

I just backed off the flange lock nuts (3 of them), rotated the bolts to setting 4 and tightened everything back up on the primary. The bolt heads had 1-6 on them and were easy to loosen up.

What are the other adjustments being referenced? Was I supposed to adjust something more than the 3 bolts on the primary?

Note: my sled came from I-90 on setting #1 but I was riding in Island Park area from 6300 - 9500+ feet elevation.

Terry
 
I'll be honest I'm a little confused by some of the responses regarding pins and rollers,etc.

I just backed off the flange lock nuts (3 of them), rotated the bolts to setting 4 and tightened everything back up on the primary. The bolt heads had 1-6 on them and were easy to loosen up.

What are the other adjustments being referenced? Was I supposed to adjust something more than the 3 bolts on the primary?

Note: my sled came from I-90 on setting #1 but I was riding in Island Park area from 6300 - 9500+ feet elevation.

Terry

There are threaded "pin weights" in the clutch. The amount of weight in them can be adjusted by adding/removing set screws. Ideally you want to run on clicker #3-4 most of the time. If you have to be on #1 or #6 to get proper RPM then a pin weight adjustment needs to be made. They are setup for about 5-8000ft from the factory.
You need to remove the clutch to change weight.
 
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Okay, yeah I put them on #4 and was able to zip right up the steep and deep with ease. I put nearly 200 miles on my sled while in Island Park in only 3 days of riding. Varied the throttle and terrain type. I wasn't really able to avoid the long 'cruising' sections (mentioned in the Owners Manual) as we had to run a significant amount of groomed trails to get to the good stuff, gas, and peoples cabins for dinner/appetizers/drinks. I got a check engine light once that went away when I restarted my sled but I'm going to bring the sled to the shop to have it hooked up for diagnostics.
 
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