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2013 Throttle block on 2011 pro?

Dont waste your money on the new assembly> remove the 4 screws, slip out the kill switch, tape it to the bars between the mountain strap and the trottle( where the new one is) and its free and works great. Have not bumped it yet and still easy to get to.
 
The 11/12 kill switch will fit into the 13 mount. Problem with it is that the 13 switch is glued into the mount. If they sold it seperatly then you would have to glue youre switch into it. No problem with that but i think Poo's reasoning is that if you break a 13 mount then you cant remove the switch out of it anyway because its glued in. Therefore you would need the whole assembly. Make sense?
 
For me... the "slap" fuction of the kill switch is important.

If I hit the kill switch... I want it to stay off without needing to remove my hands from the bars to keep it pressed till the sled dies.

Just me though.



MH.
 
The 11/12 kill switch will fit into the 13 mount. Problem with it is that the 13 switch is glued into the mount. If they sold it seperatly then you would have to glue youre switch into it. No problem with that but i think Poo's reasoning is that if you break a 13 mount then you cant remove the switch out of it anyway because its glued in. Therefore you would need the whole assembly. Make sense?

Oh boy, more glue...
 
Just picked up a 12 and I'd like to see if anyone has done the switch on a Doo mount, I killed the sled just unloading it off the trailer the first time yesterday...
Super stoked about having a Pro, just need to get her all set up to my liking!!
Thanks!
P
 
Fastrax had it on their website.

Thanks! I'll poke around and find it, or call them.

Anyone know if the IQR style two piece extruded block has enough pull to get full travel on the 800 CFI's?

I really like them, especially when I router all the sharp edges of the extrusion off and Hard anodize them.
 
Thanks! I'll poke around and find it, or call them.

Anyone know if the IQR style two piece extruded block has enough pull to get full travel on the 800 CFI's?

I really like them, especially when I router all the sharp edges of the extrusion off and Hard anodize them.

Yep, it'll work. I just zip tie the safety switch down then wrap it in tape and stick it under the hood
 
Thanks for the pix, not sure what the bypass switch is for though! Do you need it with a tether? Planning on the OFT plug in
P
 
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