Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2012 Silber oil tank and cap

Hey Thewayout
Does that spacer on your AFR sensor, help with longevity
Does it still give you the same readings?
You put some cooling fins on the oil tank.
Have you checked oil temps after a long pull?
 
I have an updated tank from November where it has the new cap and they have it free flow right into the tank. But they have the wrong theory....as it leaks as bad as my 12 oil tank did. I put the 12 oil cap on the updated tank and this helped but it still leaks. If you blow through the new cap you have to build pressure before it releases pressure. If you put the filler tube to the middle of a tank and fill the tank less then 1/2 full it should not leak when you roll the sled over.
 
Oil tank mess

I think the roll over valve is made by Velvac. Searching Velvac Roll Over Safety Vent comes up with limited info. Looks like they are mainly used on custom tanks for diesel fuel. Mine came from a buddy at a fab shop. Don't quote me on the teflon material as thats a bit of a guess. Plunger is a white plastic material. I havn't tested the valve set up yet but seems like the next logical step in things to try. Picked up my 12 pro late last year and have only rode it a total of 3 days. It ran excellent with silbers setup numbers and didn't need to make any adjustments. My afr reading were stable & reading in range as per throttle postion. Look up the recent post on afr sensors for benifits on extended bung. Thanks to the snowest for providing endless amounts of info. My valve looks exact to the one shown in pic.

rv.png
 
Last edited:
Got out riding and the roll over valve didn't work out. End up burning a full tank of oil thur the exhaust side leaving big cloulds of blue smoke behind every throttle blast. Rode second day with a 5/8 hose barb & vent, had zero issues. Seems the biggest problem with blowing oil out the caps is tank pressure which seems to be caused be exhuast gas or charge air. Restrict the venting and tank pressures up and pushs oil into exhaust side or if venting is bored line seems to blow oil out the vent hose or cap.
 
Got out riding and the roll over valve didn't work out. End up burning a full tank of oil thur the exhaust side leaving big cloulds of blue smoke behind every throttle blast. Rode second day with a 5/8 hose barb & vent, had zero issues. Seems the biggest problem with blowing oil out the caps is tank pressure which seems to be caused be exhuast gas or charge air. Restrict the venting and tank pressures up and pushs oil into exhaust side or if venting is bored line seems to blow oil out the vent hose or cap.

So are you still running the stock oil return line from the turbo? Heard that is the other issue with this tank, too small of a hose. I was going to run this vent on mine with a 3/8" hose, but is that too mush restriction? Thanks
FA96B4D4-51B6-478C-A5D2-6EEC38B01AC6-31752-000008E1EA1CCF77.jpg
 
Here is a couple of pics of the mods I made
Moved the turbo drain hose inlet in the tank. It is lower and the size was increased to 1/2 NPT
The old drain inlet I turned in to a vent, that runs to the outside of the sled.
The original cap I filled with silicone, so it no longer vents it is now the oil filler cap
Replaced the oil pump U bolt with a flat bar .
Also welded a piece of channel on to the tank to act as a saddle.
I have installed it all, and it went together quite well
Testing it this weekend
Will report back

IMG_0794.jpg IMG_0795.jpg
 
Sorry guys
Went back over the thread
The 3/8 vent hose question
Yes it is big enough, it doesnt take much, I have been out on a few big rides using the 3/8 vent hose and works perfectly.
I tried it with the loops and without and found no difference other than oil accumulated in the loops
This system has to vent. So if you want to clean up under the hood, the vent hose has to breathe to the outside or into a catch can. (like a 2 stroke Detroit diesel)
I run the hose straight up to the chassis tube and then down and forward to the shock bolt access rubber plug. Pulled the plug and let the hose hang down 3 to 4 inches. Little bit of drool on the body by the shock but not much (snow cleans it up pretty quick). Tried a long hose to underneath the sled but the end kept freezing.
I put a shutoff valve in my vent hose and rode the sled with the vent closed to see what would happen.
After some long pulls, the sled start burning the turbo oil in a big way.
So dont do that.
In my previous thread I talk about the bigger turbo drain and running it on a angle.
Will report back next week after testing. With pics of the install .
Hate that oil mess under the hood
 
Went for a ride yesterday with my new drain hose,cap,and vent with manual valve.
It worked great. The bigger drain hose seems to create alot less pressure on the vent hose.
I have it vented outside and next to no drool.
No mess under the hood......
Here is some pics
 
All that is needed is the 1/2" drain and the 13 cap and it will not leak at all. No other vent, no other angle mods.
 
The 13 cap still vents (cracks at 2 psi) means oil mist underhood.
Its alot better, but if you want no oil mess under the hood it must vent outside the engine compartment.
The angle helps when your climbing, otherwise it runs back to the turbo.
The oil wont run up hill....
 
I noticed with mine for what ever reason the check ball in the cap gums up and if you turn the cap up side down when off the tank and turn right side up again the ball sticks to the top of the cap. This could be part or the reason why the tank is preasuring up and pushing oil out around the threads. I ended up cleaning bottom side of cap/check ball with brake clean and ensure ball is sitting down on roll pin before reinstalling on tank.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top