2012 Silber oil tank and cap
- Thread starter silberpro
- Start date
We will have the updated tanks available soon. I know they stop the leaks.
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silberpro
Active member
Whats the difference in the tank that it will stop the leaks?
My tanks not leaking the cap is!
I left a message for you today at your store.
I emailed Silber a couple of times asking for any help he could offer.
His response (the cap leaks) at least he didnt lie.
So Boston if you have a legit fix that would be great.
My tanks not leaking the cap is!
I left a message for you today at your store.
I emailed Silber a couple of times asking for any help he could offer.
His response (the cap leaks) at least he didnt lie.
So Boston if you have a legit fix that would be great.
The new caps stop the leaks. Problem is they require a larger drain to prevent the return line from vapor locking.
S
silberpro
Active member
How much bigger is the return line?
I could change the brass elbow on the btm of turbo and weld a bigger fitting on the tank. ( is the line your talking about?)
Do you have the new caps in stock?
I see the new tank also has a new filler tube on a angle.
Why the angle?
Why longer?
I could change the brass elbow on the btm of turbo and weld a bigger fitting on the tank. ( is the line your talking about?)
Do you have the new caps in stock?
I see the new tank also has a new filler tube on a angle.
Why the angle?
Why longer?
P
powerfuldodge
Well-known member
This is what I did and it stopped leaking. I have to change the hose to something that can handle more heat. This hose is on the verge of melting but no more leaks
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silberpro
Active member
I did the same thing but without the loop.
I had to do a rollover to get my sled out. Rolled it pretty quick but lost most the oil.
So wanted something that would clean it up but keep the oil in the tank while its going over.
Wish i could just seal it up no vent like Boost-it does.
I had to do a rollover to get my sled out. Rolled it pretty quick but lost most the oil.
So wanted something that would clean it up but keep the oil in the tank while its going over.
Wish i could just seal it up no vent like Boost-it does.
The new drains are 1/2 inch
J
jsandgren10
Well-known member
What will you guys charge for an updated tank, I have a line looped around mine right now but would be nice to have a normal cap that didn't leak
The new oil tank fixed all of my oil cap problems like Corey said. It has a long oil fill spout that it goes into which prevents the oil from coming out when the cap releases pressure.
The new tank comes with the new fitting for the bottom of the turbo
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silberpro
Active member
I replaced the vented cap with a 1/2 inch npt to 3/8 barb. Then connected a vent tube to it, ran it up to my handlebars, and put a shut off valve on it.
The idea was to let it breath thru the hose, and if I need to roll it over I would just close the valve.
What I found was that under boost, the amount of drooling oil coming out of the vent tube was incredible. I don't think the cap is just leaking, it is being blown out.
After Boston said the 13 kit has a bigger turbo oil return line ( 1/2 inch )
I went and had a look at mine.
The small brass fitting used, that screws into the tank is 3/8 inch.
I went to the internet and checked out turbo oil return lines.
Sure enough, for most turbos, 1/2 is the minimum. Also the drain hose should run at no less than a 30 degree angle.
I think their is so much oil mess, because the oil return line has a design flaw.(To small creates pressure. The oil can't get out of the turbo.) builds up huge pressure.
In order to begin to remedy the problem, two things must be done.
The oil return line must go to the max size allowable by the turbo fitting.
Secondly, because where the oil exits the turbo, and where oil enters the oil tank is on the same level, the oil cannot return to the tank correctly. This could possibly damage the turbo. Think about climbing a hill.
Where is the tank in relationship to the turbo? With the current system the oil has to flow uphill.
This makes the problem worse.
I will pull my tank next week, and weld a new fitting lower down on the oil tank, and try to get at least a 45 degree run in the largest allowable drain hose.
As well, I will extend the filler on a angle forward. (to combat oil running by the cap on a steep climb)
If anyone has any pics of a 13 kit showing the angle of the return line could you please post them.
The idea was to let it breath thru the hose, and if I need to roll it over I would just close the valve.
What I found was that under boost, the amount of drooling oil coming out of the vent tube was incredible. I don't think the cap is just leaking, it is being blown out.
After Boston said the 13 kit has a bigger turbo oil return line ( 1/2 inch )
I went and had a look at mine.
The small brass fitting used, that screws into the tank is 3/8 inch.
I went to the internet and checked out turbo oil return lines.
Sure enough, for most turbos, 1/2 is the minimum. Also the drain hose should run at no less than a 30 degree angle.
I think their is so much oil mess, because the oil return line has a design flaw.(To small creates pressure. The oil can't get out of the turbo.) builds up huge pressure.
In order to begin to remedy the problem, two things must be done.
The oil return line must go to the max size allowable by the turbo fitting.
Secondly, because where the oil exits the turbo, and where oil enters the oil tank is on the same level, the oil cannot return to the tank correctly. This could possibly damage the turbo. Think about climbing a hill.
Where is the tank in relationship to the turbo? With the current system the oil has to flow uphill.
This makes the problem worse.
I will pull my tank next week, and weld a new fitting lower down on the oil tank, and try to get at least a 45 degree run in the largest allowable drain hose.
As well, I will extend the filler on a angle forward. (to combat oil running by the cap on a steep climb)
If anyone has any pics of a 13 kit showing the angle of the return line could you please post them.
T
thewayout
Member
Tank vent
Rode last week end with brass npt to 3/8 barb fitting and looped a clear hose 3 times but still lost 1/2 liter of oil. Wish I had vented hose externally but didn't so have mess to clean up. The second day noticed a mixture of water/ condisation & oil building up in loops which was frozen in the morning. After riding thawing the hose it blow out a mess. I now have a 1/2npt to 1/4" barb roll over valve that vents both directions and has a teflon plunger to prevent oil loss while upside down. Going to route hose from valve up over spar tube and out the belly pan with exh valve vent. Not going to loop hose as its just a trap to freeze during the night. Not understanding how the drain line could cause the tank to blow oil out. If anything it would just be flooding the turbo. I have a psi switch on the oil pump discharge and have trouble building any pressure because there is no restriction circulating from pump to turbo & draining back to tank.
Rode last week end with brass npt to 3/8 barb fitting and looped a clear hose 3 times but still lost 1/2 liter of oil. Wish I had vented hose externally but didn't so have mess to clean up. The second day noticed a mixture of water/ condisation & oil building up in loops which was frozen in the morning. After riding thawing the hose it blow out a mess. I now have a 1/2npt to 1/4" barb roll over valve that vents both directions and has a teflon plunger to prevent oil loss while upside down. Going to route hose from valve up over spar tube and out the belly pan with exh valve vent. Not going to loop hose as its just a trap to freeze during the night. Not understanding how the drain line could cause the tank to blow oil out. If anything it would just be flooding the turbo. I have a psi switch on the oil pump discharge and have trouble building any pressure because there is no restriction circulating from pump to turbo & draining back to tank.
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silberpro
Active member
The oil pressure on the turbo feed line is based on a restrictor on the inlet side of the turbo. (like putting your finger on a garden hose)
The drain side is gravity, it cannot have any pressure build up.
It has to go in a set psi xx and come out with 0 pressure
If it can run out thru a large hose with no back pressure, it wont create that slobering up the vent hose or cap depending on the vent type you are using.
The drain side is gravity, it cannot have any pressure build up.
It has to go in a set psi xx and come out with 0 pressure
If it can run out thru a large hose with no back pressure, it wont create that slobering up the vent hose or cap depending on the vent type you are using.
J
JSCC
Well-known member
Hey bud just looking at your photo, it looks like you have the tank almost completely full of oil? I could be wrong it just looks that way... Anyhow I would try dropping that level to the middle of the clear hose on the tank and see if that takes care of most of your oil mess. Mine leaked a ton when it was full but then hit a level about midway down the tank and quit leaking so bad.
This is a great idea, hopefully it works good. I am sick and tired of a oily mess in my engine bay. Makes everything grungy and I am super anal how clean my sled stays. It makes it easy to troubleshoot a problem if its clean. Where did you get your rollover vent valve at? I saw a brass 1/2" NPT one on ebay, but haven't found one like you have with a teflon seat. Please share and thanks for the idea!
P
powerfuldodge
Well-known member
Is that cooling fins on your oil tank?
