I'm looking at a 2012 PRO, but I'm being told to steer clear because of motor issues, piston skirts etc. Should I be concerned?
2012 PRO motor issues
- Thread starter SLC
- Start date
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powerfuldodge
Well-known member
I have a 2013 switchback pro r turboed with 1400miles on stock pistons . I am going to tear it apart soon and have a look in side
Powerfuldodge@me.com
2013 pro rmk
2012 136" switchback turbo
2008 megacab long box
2010 600 switchback
2006 660 switchback
2014 dodge ram 3500 Lon
Powerfuldodge@me.com
2013 pro rmk
2012 136" switchback turbo
2008 megacab long box
2010 600 switchback
2006 660 switchback
2014 dodge ram 3500 Lon
buy it put pistons in and ride. they are all time bombs. I put 2k miles on a 12 with no issues
I agree with this at 2000 miles you should put new pistons in it or if it close. IMO I would run stock pistons at this point
SLC - do a search on here and you will find literally hundreds(if not thousands) of posts that relate to the Polaris 800, 2011-13. Of course you will find about the same number of opinions. Sift thru all the BS and there is a tremendous amount of valuable information. I went with a Northstar kit in my 12 and am very happy with it. I have a 11 that is bone stock, 750 miles and no issues. I have turned up my oiler, add oil to gas as well and always warm it up properly. I do not let gas sit in it for over a week without draining it(usually not much left in tank). I always use fresh gas for every ride.
Your not far behind me Kris.
2100 miles and mine blew up at the end of last season. Not sure if you knew that? I posted a thread earlier about it.Your not far behind me Kris.
I know it, you crossed the line at 2k.
I bought the dreaded first year 2011 Pro. Have loved every one of my 2000 miles. I wouldn't hesitate at all. Remember these forums highlight the bad stuf. You rarely hear of the guy that has had no problems. The 12 was an awesome sled, but I would steer clear of the dreaded 13,( just kidding) You can't go wrong with any of the Pro's. Just remember, every time you pull the rope, warm it up properly, ride hard.
I believe what your saying about warm up , and we're it it for the long run not purchasing every year or other account of warranty but waiting for a sled to warm up every time the group stops wears on everyone . There's both sides of the story but crap this is getting a little far fetched . If that's the case they should have a big warning sticker on purchase .
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rmscustom
Well-known member
Start sled, then put helmet and gloves back on and then take it easy for 30 seconds till temps stabilize...
Does that 12 have an extended warranty? Most of the snowchecks had 4 years. Are you going to keep it stock?
Yeah, being concerned is warranted.
But as I have posted on here before. My experience is as follows.
Stock 2011 Pro RMK 155". 3506 miles. One exhaust temp sensor.
Stock 2011 Pro RMK 163". 2147 miles. Zero problems.
Stock 2013 Pro RMK 155". 1507 miles. Zero problems.
Stock 2014 Pro RMK 155". 0 miles. On the way.
All BS aside. In my opinion? The 2013 exceeds the 2011 and the 2012.
It only takes a little bit of time to warm it up. If we have been parked for just a few minutes, I fire it up and wait until the cold shot is pushed thru the motor. The temps will drop to 97 or whatever, start to stabilize then then start to come up. That's when I go but still take it easy for the first little bit. What I am saying is I have seen is to many people sit at the bottom of the hill for 5 minutes then pull the rope and nail it full throttle all the way up. This ain't good for any sled, not just Polaris. If your riding buddies can't handle that then I would suggest some new partners or just prepare to spend some money on motor parts. Besides, if you're on a Pro, it won't take long to catch up to 'em.
I do this exactly and have for years and I change pistons at 2k miles and I have never lost a motor in the last 10 sleds and roughly 30k miles
2388 miles on my '12 with over 1,400 of those last season. My riding was a mix of high speed trail runs, long stretches of river bottom powder and lots of WFO hill riding. Nary a burble, but 95% of my riding is at lower altitudes (5K or lower) so that may be a factor.
I turned up the oiler to 32:1 after bringing it home, and always warm it up fully first. Always. Other than some clutch work, sled is stock. Compression is still good.
It's due for a refresh so its getting that plus a long-rod conversion and a PAR head.
I'd buy another (well cared for) '12 Pro in a second.
YMMV
I turned up the oiler to 32:1 after bringing it home, and always warm it up fully first. Always. Other than some clutch work, sled is stock. Compression is still good.
It's due for a refresh so its getting that plus a long-rod conversion and a PAR head.
I'd buy another (well cared for) '12 Pro in a second.
YMMV
Or...
Slip on un-laced boots, bathrobe and Cousin Eddie hat, go outside, slow-pull recoil to turn over cylinders a couple times, start sled and go back inside and get dressed. (You may, or may not, need to hover by the woodstove for a few minutes until your nuts drop back down)
While you're gearing up the sled will come to temp and after idling at 125 for a few minutes, shut itself off.
R
