2012 Pro 800 voltage problem
- Thread starter denver_donkey
- Start date
R
R_8_N
Well-known member
Did anyone ever figure this out? Saw the same thing this weekend on a 11 with about 1200 miles on it. just started yesterday. The check engine light came on and off and the display would flicker. sounded like it went off over 6000 rpms. Idle was set at 1800 and the TPS had been checked about 2 weeks ago.
Well, i've put about 400 miles on it since with no trouble! I think the idle was set too low from the factory. One thing making it idle so low, especially after the engine is warm, is the belt deflection on the 2012's seems a bit tighter than the 2011's. The belt gets sticky and lowers the rpm by a couple hundred. As stated somewhere above, the charging system can't keep up idling that low.
Good luck!
Good luck!
One other point I forgot about. Don't trust the tach on the dash! I used a hand held tach to set idle speed, it seems more accurate and doesn't bounce around like the dash!
Sled had been to the dealer and gotten a new stator and voltage regulator and problem has not changed, has anybody figured it out yet? It is not an idle related issue voltage only climbs to about 9 volts at 2500 rpm. Any help appreciated
Water to air areocharger so with that you have to keep in mind a water pump, a/f gauge, egt's and dobeck box all spliced in to wire at dc power plug and is also the same place I checked voltage. Now before jumping to any conclusions I have have to tell you i have disconnected each one starting with water pump then egt's then a/f checking voltage after each seeing only minimal change from 7.6 to maybe 9.2 now to add to confusion sometimes when first started cold and just the dobeck box connected it jumps to 12.4 roughly and after a few minutes slowly drops below 10 volts. Ahhh very frustrated
G
GREICO1
Well-known member
I think that here I would start disconnecting components to see if maybe your power requirements are greater than the system capabilities. The power output is rated at 400w but you are running a lot more components than a carbed 220w system used to, and it didn't take much to overrun the old stators. You are correct though, this can be a very frustrating issue and chasing electrical gremlins are enough to drive anyone mad! If possible, maybe try to get the stator specs and test output there first to make sure it is producing the necessary voltage.
low idle flashing instrument cluster issue
Mine did the same thing with very low miles. It had been idled a lot with the break in oil while they debugged the reverse not working. I changed the plugs and it has been flawless ever since.
2012 RMK 800 155
Mine did the same thing with very low miles. It had been idled a lot with the break in oil while they debugged the reverse not working. I changed the plugs and it has been flawless ever since.
2012 RMK 800 155
with the voltage problem on these sleds i want to wire in an on off switch to the head lights they are using at least 100watts of power.. now if i do this will i have to worry about anything?? oh i forgot i am having some idle issues with my turbo.. only aditional electrical other than stock is a/f guage and oil pump..thats it
G
GREICO1
Well-known member
The switch sounds like it may be a good idea. Not sure how much power the oil pump will take, but the system is probably taxed with the addition. You could also just pull the low beam wire on one of the lights and tape it up to see if there is a change before you add the switch, or unplug one or both headlights to make sure. The biggest issue you would have with too much additional voltage are your regulators or stator. The old mod race sleds with no headlight were notorious with burning up stators, until one added about three handwarmer elements to shed the extra load.
Any updates on this problem? I just started having the same problem. For extras I have a oil pump for the turbo, egt and afr gauge, and I got rid of the headlights. Rpm doesn't seem to matter unless I'm wot then everything works fine.
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
I just had this exact same problem happen this last week. After doing a bunch of searching on here and checking voltages on the sled I came to the conclusion that the fuel pump was the culprit.
Symptoms: Everything would be find when its cold but once it warmed up to 150deg the dc voltage in the system would drop to 8-9vdc. The check engine light would flicker on and off and I would also get a battery symbol on my dash. Also my wideband o2 gauge was showing low voltage. The sled would run, idle and drive but the check engine light wouldn't go away no matter what the rpm was at.
So on a tip that I read in a post in one of the threads I added some oil to my tank. The problem litterally went away within 15 seconds of dumping some oil in. And I have witnesses. Now one thing to consider: I just starting running 100LL av gas for probably 250miles prior to this happening & I wasn't doing any premix up till this point. I read on another thread the pump laboring was drawing down the whole system. I truly think thats what was happening. My next step to diagnos was going to be to run the pump off a 12v battery to see if the sled ran normal, but I never got to that because the oil in the tank fixed it first.
I guess I should have been listening to people all along when they told me to mix 1oz of premix for every gallon!!! It'll make my engine run longer and keep my fuel pump going.
Does anyone know if you can get just a replacement pump for these things? Polaris says you have to buy the whole assembly and they want $400. Thats crazy!!!! Anyone know a secret to a $100-$200 fuel pump???? I'd like to replace it just because it was having problems. I did run the sled for 5 more days and it didn't have a problem, but with me having a turbo I don't want the chance of fueling problems.
Symptoms: Everything would be find when its cold but once it warmed up to 150deg the dc voltage in the system would drop to 8-9vdc. The check engine light would flicker on and off and I would also get a battery symbol on my dash. Also my wideband o2 gauge was showing low voltage. The sled would run, idle and drive but the check engine light wouldn't go away no matter what the rpm was at.
So on a tip that I read in a post in one of the threads I added some oil to my tank. The problem litterally went away within 15 seconds of dumping some oil in. And I have witnesses. Now one thing to consider: I just starting running 100LL av gas for probably 250miles prior to this happening & I wasn't doing any premix up till this point. I read on another thread the pump laboring was drawing down the whole system. I truly think thats what was happening. My next step to diagnos was going to be to run the pump off a 12v battery to see if the sled ran normal, but I never got to that because the oil in the tank fixed it first.
I guess I should have been listening to people all along when they told me to mix 1oz of premix for every gallon!!! It'll make my engine run longer and keep my fuel pump going.
Does anyone know if you can get just a replacement pump for these things? Polaris says you have to buy the whole assembly and they want $400. Thats crazy!!!! Anyone know a secret to a $100-$200 fuel pump???? I'd like to replace it just because it was having problems. I did run the sled for 5 more days and it didn't have a problem, but with me having a turbo I don't want the chance of fueling problems.
Any new updates on this my buddies sled has similar problem?
N
Newby2sleds
Member
Seems there is several people having this trouble. Did you guys ever figure it out?
N
Newby2sleds
Member
Idle is supposed to be set with the correct voltage from the TPS. To turn it up there is a set screw with on the MAG side of the throttle body. You may have to remove your muffler. You will see a small allen head set screw with a jam nut where the throttle cable meets the throttle body. This should be adjusted by checking the TPS voltage and within spec IMO. IF it is outside of the spec idle voltage (.930 - .950 V) then you have another problem. There are several threads on here explaining how to set your TPS. The base setting is very important.
Here is one thread ---> http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287858&highlight=tps
They talk about making a TPS tool which supplies the 5 Volt reference signal. I use a good car battery and connect it to the ECM plug that the dealer uses for the Digital wrench. This supplies the 5 volts from the ECU needed to set the base and idle tps settings
