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2012 Pro 800 voltage problem

Hey guys, I've got a question. I am having trouble with low DC voltage when the engine gets warmed up. I noticed my instrument cluster started flashing. At idle my voltmeter reads between 7-9 volts on the DC PWR plug by the primary clutch. when I rev it up a bit it goes back to 14 volts and the guages start working. Let the engine cool off and the power comes back to 14 volts for a minute then starts falling as it warms back up. Dealer swapped out a regulator and thought the problem was fixed. Took it out and it is still messed up. I am thinking stator. Any Ideas?

Thanks!
 
There are a lot of TPS issues on IQ and Pro sleds. For some reason Polaris can't nail that down. The good news is that it is easy to fix. However, I would take it to the dealer or at least let him know. Maybe they should be checking these right out of the box. I've read a few posts on new sleds where this could be the same issue. The blinking of the instrument lights is a pretty good signal that the TPS needs adjusted. Good luck.
 
Loose connection on a capacitor wire. Wasnt giving my dash or plugs enough juice. Dash would randomly go blank and motor would stall out while driving. It finally unhooked and left me in a field. Dealer came and picked it up.
Polaris had notified my dealer of this potential problem. They reinforced the wire connection and has been great since.
 
Whats the rpm's at when at idle. If the idle is to low it will not produce enough volts to run everything and will show low volts
 
Well, I either got it fixed, or put a band aid on the cancer. I got a hand held tach and raised the warm idle up to 1900 (high side of factory spec). I reset TPS to .95 volts. Voltage is steady 11.5-12 dc at idle and comes up to 14.2 just off idle. No more flashing dash lights. Raising the idle to 1900 really reduced the engine vibration! I am going out tomorrow to try it out!
 
I hope it works for you, Thats why i asked about low idle. If idling to slow you will have low voltage. You should be good to go now.:face-icon-small-win If it was the regulator it would have been fawked no matter the rpm.
 
My sled just started doing this same thing, voltage drops to the point were gauges start flickering, air fuel goes extremely lean, reverse won't work, egt's will not even stay on with idle at 1800 rpms and check engine and battery light on. Has anybody found the for sure cure? Everythings find when engine is cold, when it warms up is when the problems start. Any help is greatly appreciated
 
There had to be more than three of us with this proublem. I wish someone would speak up that has had this proublem and fixed it.
 
Nearly all small engines will do exactly this. Atv's, sleds, motorcycles, all have the same or similar issue. Most of them do not produce good power at idle and will therefore, often show low voltage. Sleds have done this for years, we just all have seeminly forgotten what happened to the headlights on the old sleds when we stopped. Stators are producing more power, but with all of the electronics they also are consuming more power. Anyone with a Vtwin cruiser is nuts to turn the idle down as far as so many people do. Not only do they not produce power, but the can also stop pumping oil. Raising the idle is the best answer if there are no other issues with the electrial. It is worth mentioning to the dealer so that there is a record of the issue, but most likely there is little they will be able to do unless loose wires, or bad components are found. The fact that you are now seeing 11-12 vDc at 1900 rpm, and it is still producing 14 vDc just above idle, suggests there isn't a fixable issue. If you have an electric start on your sled, the DC powered items shouldn't be affected until your battery is too weak to run them, and those owners shouldn't see this issue.
 
Problem is it just started this today and also is setting off det sensor due to lean conditions I believe, plus the engine and batt light stay on regardless of rpm. I'm going to dealer tomorrow I post what they say
 
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