Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

2011 Turbo Pro year 2

Robbie

Well-known member
Premium Member
I had a pretty successful season last year. I thought I'd bring you along with my planned updates and anything that I find that broke and the needed repairs.

2011 Turbo Pro 1.JPG 2011 Turbo Pro 2.JPG
 
didn't find a old build thread but i also didn't look to hard either, what had all been done?
 
I started last year with a Twisted Turbo, Avid Chaincase and a 174 3". I rode this one 1100 miles. I'm now checking it out for the up coming season.
 
man, i should try and get out with you when the snow flies, im really curious how it does. heard a few stories that she runs pretty nice!
 
Robbie...

Polaris is bonding the chaincase to the bulkhead now... any thoughts on that one??

Keep on truckkin brother!!
 
Robbie...

Polaris is bonding the chaincase to the bulkhead now... any thoughts on that one??

Keep on truckkin brother!!
 
I don't think that the 'gluing' will be a problem. Last year Curt at Fastrax took a Rush completely apart. He had to warm the joints with a propane torch. It just fell apart. I can supply the glue to put them back on.

Here's the answer to the "How did it run question?". I mostly ride in an area that has no grooming. That's about 10 miles each way of 2' bumps spaced 6' apart. I had a few issues with components breaking, falling off and hose clamps coming loose. Once I got the components beefed up and the clamps saftey wired, I didn't have any problems. The fuel tuning stayed put once I had it dialed in. It didn't change from day to day. I think that is because with the air to water intercooler and the cold air intake the charge temps were consistant. Climbing up a hill digging I will show the low 60's mph at 9 pounds of boost.
 
Your custom aftermarket seat/fuel cell combo looks a bit uncomfortable and I suspect you have issues with range as well! You must have the longest arms in the world!:becky::becky::becky:
 
Turbo Pro year 2

We are progressing slowly on our preseason inspection. We are planning on replacing the chain, pistons, and motor mounts. We will be building a self-contained water system for our air to water intercooler. Some of this might seem overkill to many of you, but I've found that it is cheaper to overbuild the sled in September rather on the second day of a 5 day trip in January.

The last picture show the nice clean gray ash that is from running straight Avgas. I don't expect to find any carbon build up in the engine.

If you can think of things we should be looking for, please speak up.

overhaul 1 001.jpg overhaul 1 003.jpg overhaul 1 004.jpg
 
The engine is out. We found one motor mount bolt broke(mag side rear). Reeds look good. As do the pistons. Head is really clean. The piston pin and bearings must have gotten very hot. They both turned blue. Any ideas on how that happened?

Rebuild 1 001.jpg Rebuild 1 002.jpg Rebuild 1 003.jpg Rebuild 1 007.jpg
 
Looks like a oiling issue. Those bearings count on a good oil supply in the case, so maybe more oil in the premix is needed.
 
Was the motor mount bolt discovered easily, or would you not have known unless you pulled the engine?
 
I have been running 32:1 ratio with Polaris Gold. Maybe something from the start. Anyway I'm sure that I avoided a breakdown in the woods by finding it.

I didn't notice the mount breaking loose. I'd suggest that each of you get an allen wrench and see that each of the four bolts are tight. If it doesn't tighten, then it is probably broke.
 
I have been running 32:1 ratio with Polaris Gold. Maybe something from the start. Anyway I'm sure that I avoided a breakdown in the woods by finding it.

I didn't notice the mount breaking loose. I'd suggest that each of you get an allen wrench and see that each of the four bolts are tight. If it doesn't tighten, then it is probably broke.

premix wont help oiling bottom end if your not running aux injectors.premix through only the stock injectors will only lube topend.crank up oil injection pump if so.maybe pistons should have holes in the skirts on intake side for better lubrication on pin and needle bearing?
 
premix wont help oiling bottom end if your not running aux injectors.premix through only the stock injectors will only lube topend.crank up oil injection pump if so.maybe pistons should have holes in the skirts on intake side for better lubrication on pin and needle bearing?
Even then it would only oil the bottom end when the extra injectors are adding fuel. So that would mean no oil when not on boost.
 
We are moving along. We replaced the stock motor mounting bolts with 7/16" bolts. We should be about 15% stronger than stock. Here's a picture of our air to water plumbing. We used FTX's seperate cooler. This year we will be cooling the box with ice water rather than 100 degree engine return coolant.

Pro 1007 001.jpg Pro 1007 002.jpg Pro 1007 003.jpg
 
Even then it would only oil the bottom end when the extra injectors are adding fuel. So that would mean no oil when not on boost.

correct,if your running premix only,not with oil pump and premix.sure need to crank up oil pump running boost if your not running just stock injectors.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top