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2011 Summer Project

2 questions for you guys/gals;

1) I'm considering a Skinz float plate, but can't decide on red or black. I'm afraid if I get the red, it will be to much red and of course black will always work. You've seen my pics, so what are your thoughts, red, black or skip it altogether? There's also the LT version, but it comes in black only.

2) I'm also considering ditching the red billet idlers in favor of some black/red Sly Dog "Really Cool Bogeys". I had them on my stock skid and thought they looked great. Here's a pic of them on my stock skid.
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i vote black float plate and black/red idlers

I 2nd this!



Have you had any issues running the Cool Wheels? I know the first year a couple head problems when running a two wheel set-up and melting the plastic. I think there was even a pic on Snowest about it.
 
I 2nd this!



Have you had any issues running the Cool Wheels? I know the first year a couple head problems when running a two wheel set-up and melting the plastic. I think there was even a pic on Snowest about it.

I didn't have any problems with them.

As for switching the from billet idlers to the Sly Dog idlers, I think I'm going to wait and see if my powder coated billet idlers ice up like I've seen happen to anodized billet idlers. If I switch the rear idlers out, I have to buy another axle as the idlers I have use a 13mm wide bearing which required a new axle. The Sly Dog idlers use the 6004 beraing, a 12mm wide bearing. A set of Sly Dog idlers to replace the four billet idlers I have will be about $220 and another $100 for a black anodized axle.

I need to give Myron (I hope I spelled his name right) at SLP a big thanks for his assistance with my sled project. He's hooked me up several times with stuff I needed help with.
 
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Well, a Skinz light weight black Float plate is on the way. I was going to order through Sled Solutions but they wanted $70 bucks to ship it.:face-icon-small-sho I found one through Amazon shipped for $111.

Talked with SLP today and I should be able to pick up my engine sometime this week if all goes well. Myron has been taking his time making sure everything is right during the assembly, which is fine with me as it's not going to snow for a while and I'm waiting on more information about the new Peak 2.5 track coming out this fall.
 
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The build is looking sweet. I think you are spot on for the colors. My vote is for the red billet wheels and black skid plate.

On your slide rails you will need to trim the front off to clear the Avid drivers. You can get away with only trimming the tit that sticks out. I normally trim the rail rite back close to the anti stab shaft and round the front of the rail. Also you will need to make sure that your anti stab wheels are the leading edge. You can check this by looking across the front of the wheels. If the hifax are sticking past then you will need to round them off as well. It would be a good idea to do this anyway even if they are not.

Allen
 
The build is looking sweet. I think you are spot on for the colors. My vote is for the red billet wheels and black skid plate.

On your slide rails you will need to trim the front off to clear the Avid drivers. You can get away with only trimming the tit that sticks out. I normally trim the rail rite back close to the anti stab shaft and round the front of the rail. Also you will need to make sure that your anti stab wheels are the leading edge. You can check this by looking across the front of the wheels. If the hifax are sticking past then you will need to round them off as well. It would be a good idea to do this anyway even if they are not.

Allen

Thanks Allen, I did a search on here for Mountainhorse's Mtn. Tamer install and somewhat copied his rail trimming. Here's some pics of mine and hopefully someone that knows more than me doesn't tell me I ruined the rails. I agree, they could look better, but.............(Unfornately, I had already coated the rails) (I suppose I can radius the rails more if I need to as I'll be waiting a while to do the final install)

100_0257.jpg

100_0255.jpg

100_0254.jpg

100_0253.jpg
 
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The build is looking sweet. I think you are spot on for the colors. My vote is for the red billet wheels and black skid plate.

On your slide rails you will need to trim the front off to clear the Avid drivers. You can get away with only trimming the tit that sticks out. I normally trim the rail rite back close to the anti stab shaft and round the front of the rail. Also you will need to make sure that your anti stab wheels are the leading edge. You can check this by looking across the front of the wheels. If the hifax are sticking past then you will need to round them off as well. It would be a good idea to do this anyway even if they are not.

Allen

Hey Allen, save me a set of Floats for the skid. I should finally be able to order them late next week. I asked about the Float X but you do not have any, oh well, really couldn't afford them or the Exit's at this point. Still have to pay Starting Line for my engine.
 
That looks good. If you use a black paint marker you can easily touch up the end of the rail where it was cut.
We have plenty of shocks in stock, so no problem there.

Allen
 
I'm at a stand still right now, I did get my footwell vents from SLP today and got them on - really liking the black on red. Can't do much else till I get the engine from SLP, the handle bar riser and caps along with the engine mount plate from FTX are getting powder coated. So here's what the black coated footwell vents look like on the red panels and a good look at the Air Frames:

100_0258.jpg


100_0259.jpg
 
I'm glad you found it as funny as I did. I felt kinda bad because I thought it was the shocker and then read your post. :second:

The flap is called "The Shocker". I just thought is was hilarious as my left hand permanently resembles "The Shocker". Hopefully I don't have to explain "The Shocker" to anyone.
 
I got the FTX engine mount plate and the riser parts from being powder coated and stopped at SLP to pick up my engine. Dang it looks good all clean. I should be ready to go back into the sled next week. Oh FWIW, the 777 kit no longer sends coolant through the throttle bodies.
 
FYI, If anyone is looking to get the FTX engine mount, you'll need to pick two longer bolts for the PTO side. I think I went with grade 10.9 flanged head M10-50 bolts. Theses screwed into the block about an inch. The stock ones, M10-35, are too short.
 
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The SLP 777 Engine

I do believe the engine is ready to go back into the chassis. First, for those that have adjusted the oil pump does this look right? I was told by SLP to adjust it so the pointer was just above the line for a little more oil.
100_0265.jpg


Here's some other pic of the engine with the FTX mount plate (as previously mentioned, I had to use m10-50 bolts on the PTO side as the stock m10-35 bolts were too short):
100_0260-1.jpg


100_0261-1.jpg


100_0262.jpg



100_0263.jpg


Slash925 has agreed to help me get the engine back into the chassis and lend his experience in making sure I got the throttle cable adjusted right, which I do believe can affect the oil pump adjustment. It's so awesome to have someone with experience willing to help out us newbies.

Next week, I'll place the order for the skid shocks from Timbersled. Also waiting on Mountainhorse to post up the info he got from Camoplast about the new Peak 2.5 track. It'll be the 154" Peak or the 155" Challeneger Ext.
 
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