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2011 Running Issue

Hello,

So let me run this by you guys to see if anyone else has experienced this......

I have a 2011 Pro 155. It just went over 1,000 miles. This year while I have been riding, normally when I climbing in deep snow and I have the throttle 3/4 to full open it will just randomly cut out and go flat. Feels and sounds like it dropped cylinder. If I left off the throttle and get back into it picks it's self back up and runs normal. It has happened on my last three rides. The first time it happened I just immediately stopped and changed the plugs and took off again. However, the plugs didn't look that bad. Since then, I have just waited a few seconds got into the throttle again and it takes off like nothing ever happened.

I have done a compression test after each ride and my compression is a bit low, but has been consistently the same. Clutch side is about 110 and pipe / can side is about 105.

Has anyone ever had this issue or any ideas why the sled is doing this?

Quick question..... I keep reading that people are using Ski Doo Rev ski rubbers on their gripper skis. Does it matter which year of Ski Doo I select to order the rubbers? Or is there a preferred part number?

Thank you for the input.

IMG_20151228_070746.jpg
 
First off has this sled ever had the original 2011 fuel injectors upgraded? Polaris has a service kit that replaces the injectors due to runnability issues? Could definitely be a cause of dropping a cylinder. Especially if changing plugs made no change whatsoever. But also check the spark plug caps closely. Saw some of these go bad.

The next interesting thing, you did not blow a breaker when you disconnected the exhaust valve solenoid? Makes me wonder if there is a short to ground in this circuit either the solenoid itself (which is very rare) or a wiring issue upstream towards the ECU which would be more believable given 2011's were more prone to wiring chaffing issues. One of these wires chaffing on the over-structure or anywhere else where it could cause a short to ground could cause the symptom you describe.

I'm confused about the 8 amp circuit breaker? Either I'm losing my mind but im not picturing this at all. Are you referring to a fuse in the bundle of connectors, etc just to front of and above the clutch guard? If so, that should be a 2 amp fuse. Or are you talking about the electric start circuit breaker or ES equipped sleds?

One concerning thing to me is the compression test difference. The difference of 5 lbs isnt a good thing. I would recommend doing another test on a hot motor and cold motor.

Also anytime there are wierd issues on a Pro, I strongly recommend removing the wad of ground wires that attach to the front bumper and over structure on the PTO side of the sled. Give each connector a good cleaning with a wire brush and reattach and torque the bolt. I have fixed quite a few issues just by doing this.

Report back and we will help you out with this.
 
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I never mentioned anything about a circuit breaker. I didn't mess with any of the electrical. However regarding the injectors its still all stock. I haven't changed anything. Regarding spark plugs the one time I did change them it ran better. The next time it occurred I did not change them and it cleared its self up.
 
How old is the fuel filter? What is the fuel pressure?

Having the power recuperate after letting off of the throttle is somewhat indicative of a loss of fuel under load.

Beyond that, Dave has provided some good recommendations including the known issues with the injectors......
 
Is it throwing any codes? Had the same problem with my 12 600. I had a code showing EGT temp sensor, checked it and it was completely lose in the fitting, tightened it up and the code was gone sled was good again. Your yellow engine light will be on if its throwing a code. Check in your manual how to retrieve these codes I cant remember it off the top of my head
 
The fuel filter is the one that came with it. And I considered that but I feel if that's the problem it would happen a lot more. The fuel pump is where I am leaning. But apparently they are pricy and it would suck if that's not the issue
 
The fuel filter is the one that came with it. And I considered that but I feel if that's the problem it would happen a lot more. The fuel pump is where I am leaning. But apparently they are pricy and it would suck if that's not the issue

By "came with it" do you mean from the factory, or are you the second or third owner?

Either way, you should change the fuel filter. Before changing the fuel pump, change your fuel filter and then do a search for 2011 injector problems, it was nearly recall status. To guess it's the fuel pump without having addressed these two exceedingly basic and common causes for lack of performance in that particular year of sled makes it sound like you really have a hankering to empty your bank account.
 
All good ideas!

You may want to start with first having the dealer check fault codes. It will log and record many things, sometimes without giving you an engine warning light. It may point you right to an injector failure or something else...

Also, at 1,000 miles, and a change in compression shown, id consider taking a good look at your top end!
 
Have 2011, did something like what your experiencing. It turn out to be a short on the wiring between the injectors.
Very hard to see. Polaris installed a cable tie next to the white tape on the wire, instead of on it. It wore though an only caused the problem sometimes.
 
I never mentioned anything about a circuit breaker. I didn't mess with any of the electrical. However regarding the injectors its still all stock. I haven't changed anything. Regarding spark plugs the one time I did change them it ran better. The next time it occurred I did not change them and it cleared its self up.

You are correct. I had put your thread and the other thread by denver_donkey with 2011 issues in my mind at the same time. I had just awoke from neck surgery at the hospital when I posted that. Please skip the 8 amp circuit breaker statement. I'm laughing to myself. They must have given me better meds than I thought.

Sounds like you have a spark plug cap issue or an injector issue both issues for 2011. As Merlin and others have pointed out, fuel filter replacement should be done. This helps with saving injectors due to design and where they are placed (location) in this motor.

Spark plug caps are cheap so try that first. You have 2 options: you can purchase them through Polaris or SLP has a kit that comes with locking caps and wires.
 
Okay, I really appreciate everyone's feedback. I guess I will start ordering the cheaper parts and go up from there. Regarding the injectors, if I buy new ones, what should I buy and from where?

Thank you for the replies.
 
The fuel filter is the one that came with it. And I considered that but I feel if that's the problem it would happen a lot more. The fuel pump is where I am leaning. But apparently they are pricy and it would suck if that's not the issue

The problem may very well but unrelated however the fuel filter is a maintenance item that needs to be addressed.

Not that I agree with the views on replacing it annually, especially considering the price, it still needs to be replaced more often than every 5 years.

If the problem does turn out to be the injectors, you'd want to protect your investment in those parts by installing a new filter.

FWIW
 
You'll be looking into getting new Yellow Injectors, and dealer will need to flash ecu for the update (unless your sled already happens to have yellow injectors). They run around $250 and come with all the o-ring seals, but do not come with the green isolators that install in the cylinder before the injectors.
 
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