2011/2012 Maintenance

[TrailRebel]

So I'm working on pulling the engine to replace the recoil rope with Armorcord before I have problems in the future. The sled only has one season on it, 742 miles on it. I'm really glad I started to do this, because I found some issues...


I plan on replacing the coolant bottle (I did the dead-loop delete), intake boots, moving the VR forward, and possibly the throttle cable.


A few questions for you guys, what else should I be doing now?
What brand intake boots?
Is the best and only place to order Armorcord through their website?
I did some searching, but couldn't find the old thread about thermostats...Should I be putting something else in it?
Are you guys doing anything special for coolant?
I'm a flatlander with the radiator still in it, should I be adding Water Wetter?
Is there a more durable oil line for the return that runs through the cylinder jugs?
What's the turnaround for the throttle cables through Motion-Pro?
Is there anything I'm forgetting or overlooking?


Thank you guys!

 

[Z-Man]

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=283761

Water wetter won't work right in a sled. Just make sure you reroute the hoses to your radiator so it goes in a loop through the whole system.

New factory Polaris thermostat, probably not bad after only 742 miles.

http://www.iceageperformance.com/armor-cord-snowmobile-replacement-cord.html

 

[TrailRebel]

New factory Polaris thermostat, probably not bad after only 742 miles.
]

Thanks, Z-Man. I just thought I remember reading something about running a different thermostat in the 900's...I don't remember the OP (maybe mountainhorse?)...just a thought, since everything is drained...

 

[Z-Man]

I think some of the aftermarket heads used an inline thermostat. That might be what you are thinking about. Factory thermostat works fine but you might want to change it after a couple seasons because they have been known to fail after a while.

 

[miller tools]

Check the engine mounts and if your using the stock air box make sure the boot between the boost box and air box seals good. and make sure your belt deflection is set right.

 

[miko700]

2 bolts

Well as everyone will mention theres 10 great plus sticky's for ya up there at the top.....but since you mentioned yer starter rope......of course be sure to leave those two bottom bolts out of the housing then you wont have to pull the motor for a broken line/spring etc......

 

[TrailRebel]

As I had the engine out to check mounts, remove recoil housing, and do general inspection and cleaning, I started removing the intake boots for replacement...I found these scoring marks on the cylinders...it's worse on the MAG side (which to my understanding will always be more lean on these engines) than it is on the PTO side, but definitely score marks on both cylinders. 750 miles on engine. VERY, VERY religious about letting engine warm up to 110* before ANY throttle is given. I always used 89 octane minimum, but the engine has seen 91 octane with ethanol... It almost looks like a cold seize...

One last thing, the MAG side doesn't have any piston wash whatsoever, the PTO has two small marks on the piston face about 1/8" long for piston wash...the engine was fogged last fall, will that make a difference?