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2010 RMK 800 not holding rpm's on long climbs?

My 2010 rmk 800 now has 500 miles and im noticing that on a long pull up a mountain that the rpm's drop substantially.. Will start at around 7900 to 8000 but by the time I reach the top the r's will be around 7200 causing a loss in proformance. what do i need to do for my sled to hold a higher rpm throughout the entire climb? my buddy's xp holds at 8400 no matter what. I want mine to do the same... any input would be great
 
Did it ever hold the rpms or is this a new problem? First off, 7900-8000 is too low to start with, it really needs to be 8200.
 
Check your belt clearance and make sure the belt isn't riding down in the secondary. Check your springs, I just had a broken primary myself. Also check your compression. When my 8 went down it just slowly lost compression over time. I was basically trying to clutch a burned down. Check your basics and don't over think it. Take it from a retard who has already been through all this!!
Good luck
 
Did it ever hold the rpms or is this a new problem? First off, 7900-8000 is too low to start with, it really needs to be 8200.

According to the memory on the dash the max rpm sled has ever been at was 8150 i have never been able to get it higher. normally runs around 7900 when wide open on flat ground.. sled still rips but i think it could rip harder. i will inspect and clean both clutches and see what happens
 
That # is not where it ran normally, it is just a peak. IE, my 600 will run at 8200 and has spikes to 84-8500.

Based on our altitude, one thing you can do to help is go to a shallower helix. Another way to regain lost performance is with a new belt and springs in the primary and secondary.
 
That # is not where it ran normally, it is just a peak. IE, my 600 will run at 8200 and has spikes to 84-8500.

Based on our altitude, one thing you can do to help is go to a shallower helix. Another way to regain lost performance is with a new belt and springs in the primary and secondary.


If your clutching is stock, there are some gains to be had. Check the clutching threads in the Increasing your IQ sticky. As Skibreeze stated a shallower helix is a good idea. 58/38-.36 is what team industries recommends.

That being said I'm a true believer that clutch tuning starts at the primary. I would suggest some type of adjustable fly weight. I prefer the Heavy Hitters or MTX. Most people prefer going to a 340# finish rate spring in the primary as well.
 
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