I see D&D has one on there site that claims like 5 or 7 horse without the need for a fuel cotroller. Speedwerx sells just a y-pipe but claims you need a fuel controller. Has anyone tried either and can you run one without added fuel?
2010 M8 Y-PIPE
- Thread starter snojnke
- Start date
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HiWaYman92
Well-known member
So theoretically, you could add a Y pipe and Can and add about ten horsepower? If a Y adds 7 horse, and an HPS can supposedly adds 3 throughout the band, you could be up 10 horse without adding fuel. THAT is appealing. 173 horse basically stock M8 that weights 448 pounds... hmmm... daddy likey.
10 horse? Yeah right!
I wouldn't get my hopes up. Remember, they are selling and the question is are you buying it?
I'm not.
I wouldn't get my hopes up. Remember, they are selling and the question is are you buying it?
I'm not.
If you're buying a can for the horsepower gains you're getting screwed. They say to expect about half of what they claim in gains on a can, if that. The biggest advantage of a y-pipe is the throttle response, and a few extra ponies. The can gives you weight savings. I'd be amazed if you actually gained 10 hp by doing just a can and y-pipe.
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HiWaYman92
Well-known member
And so would I. That was the reason for the "THEORETICALLY" in my statements. No, I don't think a can is a replacement for a turbo, they are not purchased for power obviously. My point was if you can throw on a couple of easy bolt ons and get some performance gains and weight loss without having to tune, why not, I'm game for those type of mods. But thanks for being a human dyno and telling me how the world works.
BMP also has a Y pipe for the 2010 that u do not need a fuel controller. Heck, the even have a Y pipe, and pipe combo that they claim 12 ponies from and no fuel controller needed.
I agree the can is a wash, but I know HPS has proven numbers and 2 yrs of R&D on their 2010 can. Remember tho, HPS dyno'd with stock exhaust otherwise so those numbers may not be good when you start adding aftermarket components in the chain.
I agree the can is a wash, but I know HPS has proven numbers and 2 yrs of R&D on their 2010 can. Remember tho, HPS dyno'd with stock exhaust otherwise so those numbers may not be good when you start adding aftermarket components in the chain.
Put the D&D y pipe on my 09 and didnt notice a thing. I wouldnt put one on a 2010. If you look the 09 y pipe has the dimple thing in it and the 2010 one doesnt
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Klimbing Kitty
Well-known member
a 2009 M8 Y pipe will not fit on a 2010 and the 2010 D&D Y pipe does have the dimple.
I think you're confused. Nothing was mentioned about putting an 09 y pipe on a 10...
I have a muff pot that gains 5 hp and requires no fuel controller that I will sell. just bolt on and go.
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Klimbing Kitty
Well-known member
Put the D&D y pipe on my 09 and didn't notice a thing. I wouldn't put one on a 2010. If you look the 09 y pipe has the dimple thing in it and the 2010 one doesnt
All i was saying is that the 09 and the 10 are different sleds and that the 10 has the dimple as well. as far as horse power some using their a$$ on the seat to tell you whether or not it gained an extra 5 or 10 horse is bs. I don't trust the supplier of an aftermarket product either. They are in the business of selling product. Like mentioned above if they say a gain of 10 assume you will get 5 on a good day. What I can tell you id that the D&D Y-pipe is made extremely well, with heavier wall and better welds than your stock one. Here is my stock y from earlier this year
you didnt gain that much when you put a y pipe on an 09 and there was a lot more hp to be gained with an exhaust setup on the "old" 800. If speedwerx is saying fuel controller and less of a hp boost how could the other 2 go without one? BMP is complete junk and I haven't heard much for good out of D&D in the mountain sled department so i would definitely take speedwerx's rep over those two. I gaurantee you don't gain 7 hp with a y pipe on the 10. They maybe got that as a freak number on one sled one time and advertised it.
Well that answers my question. Thanks for the help making my decision.
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boosted1
Member
Hate to be the only who believes in the Y pipe!
I have a 2010 HCR i geared it to 2.1 ratio (104mph) and bone stock i was pulling 73 grams at 8100rpm at 2000ft.
I added a Y-pipe from D&D thats it...now the same sled runs 78gr weights and runs at 7800-7900rpm.
if you guys dont think it adds HP you my friends are dead WRONG, you have to bring your rpms down to 78-79, I have a membership with Jim at Dynotech and 7hp is correct.
if you put a can on your sled...you will lose HP, the only proof of HP gains I have seen in a can is the Cutler can, it gains 4hp throughout the midrange but equals stock HP on the top end.
everyone I talk to, has seen up to 6hp hp losses with the current cans on the market for the 2010 800s. thats why I dont run one...
I am thinking of the Cutler can though, if Dale Cutler says it gains only in the mid range and no extra HP on top...I believe that. stand up guy...
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I have a 2010 HCR i geared it to 2.1 ratio (104mph) and bone stock i was pulling 73 grams at 8100rpm at 2000ft.
I added a Y-pipe from D&D thats it...now the same sled runs 78gr weights and runs at 7800-7900rpm.
if you guys dont think it adds HP you my friends are dead WRONG, you have to bring your rpms down to 78-79, I have a membership with Jim at Dynotech and 7hp is correct.
if you put a can on your sled...you will lose HP, the only proof of HP gains I have seen in a can is the Cutler can, it gains 4hp throughout the midrange but equals stock HP on the top end.
everyone I talk to, has seen up to 6hp hp losses with the current cans on the market for the 2010 800s. thats why I dont run one...
I am thinking of the Cutler can though, if Dale Cutler says it gains only in the mid range and no extra HP on top...I believe that. stand up guy...
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IDAHO HOT SHOT
Well-known member
The main thing that has to be considered is the FACT that SLP and Cutler work, ride and live in the mountain west, not the eastern flatlands. Any manufacturer can make a setup that works at 2000 ft. I know from personal experience that SLP has a tech in the mountains most of the time. I would imagine that Cutler does to. I owned the first year M8 and put a Speedwerx single pipe on it. This sled was, simply put, a turd. About a month ago, our local Cat dealer had an 09 M8 162 up with myself and some other Poo boys. I asked to ride this sled because despite riding Poo the last 2 years, I am still very partial to the M sled. AGAIN, I was severely dissapointed in speedwerx. I was even more dissapointed the next weekend when I rode my pop's 08 M8. It seemed like it pulled just as hard as the piped 09 from 3 weeks back. I had alot of fun on the stocker. I was getting around 40 mph on climbs, which is the max of my 07 with the pipe. I do not remember what any clutching setups, I just remember that my 09 had Powerquest adjustable weights. I hope that I don't offend anyone, these are just my experiences. Which could very well lead back to possible bad dealer setup, knowledge and support. I would like to hear other experiences of you Cat boys with speedwerx. I would aslo accept the donation if anyone would like to give me their SLP piped, ported 09 M8. Happy Trails
I too had a hard time believing gains from a y pipe on the 2010's. Especially since the 10' y looks so much more free flowing than any of cat's other stock y's. But I also have a
Dynotech membership and Jim's test does show a 7hp gain at 78-7900. Keep in mind the can and pipe are stock, and his dyno is at low elevation. For those running higher I havent
seen dyno info there. I have experienced power loss with cans before, and currently still have the stock can on my 2010. Can any others chime in like boosted1 that are running
just a y on their 10' as to how it works on the snow?
How about you jorgy? stock weights? overreving? Detonation light flashing at you?
Dynotech membership and Jim's test does show a 7hp gain at 78-7900. Keep in mind the can and pipe are stock, and his dyno is at low elevation. For those running higher I havent
seen dyno info there. I have experienced power loss with cans before, and currently still have the stock can on my 2010. Can any others chime in like boosted1 that are running
just a y on their 10' as to how it works on the snow?
How about you jorgy? stock weights? overreving? Detonation light flashing at you?
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