anyone have a slp pipe for a 2010 m8 with a power commander box?? just wondering what your clutching setup is?? i tried the recommended stuff from slp but does not seem to work. top track speed is 40mph ish constant. doesnt seem to really do anything past 7500 rpm. i am think this is mostly helix, doesnt really want to keep upshift for more track speed.
2010 M8 SLP Pipe - Clutching??
- Thread starter 9 Iron
- Start date
no nother other mods, its a 153 track. usually ride between 6000-7000ft/
here is my current clutching
Blue/pink primary spring
71g MTX w/1gram rivet weights
Orange secondary spring
44/36 helix.
pm starts good at 8250 and falls down to 7850. around 7500 track speed stops around 40mph contast??
i was thinking of pulling some weight out and adding more helix to increase upshift. Any ideas??
Blue/pink primary spring
71g MTX w/1gram rivet weights
Orange secondary spring
44/36 helix.
pm starts good at 8250 and falls down to 7850. around 7500 track speed stops around 40mph contast??
i was thinking of pulling some weight out and adding more helix to increase upshift. Any ideas??
D
Desperado
Well-known member
I have been going through the same thing with my 09 M8, ride about the same elevation as you too. I've concluded the problem lies in my secondary, have not resolved it yet and for me the season is over so this will be a summer time project to do more research. My sled is a 162 and the rider weight fully geared up is 240 or so. I do know from talking to SLP that most of their setups were done using 153's and a rider weight fully geared up of about 200. So for us heavier riders using the bigger track it's trial and error.
We all seem to be struggling with the same thing.
Mine is a 09 153" Sno Pro with the SLP Performance Edition Kit.
I am running 74 Gram MTX weights and with the weight empty I could pull about 7,540-7,840 in Cooke City at 8,500-10,000 feet. My shift speed target is 8,200 RPM. I was leaving a lot on the table.
I am also running a BDX 45/37 degree multi angle helix to try to get just a bit more track speed out of the sled. I'm sure that extra angle of finish on the helix is eating up some RPM.
I got closest here locally (5-7,000 feet) to the mark RPM wise with the SLP Black/Pink 120/340. I also bought a Goodwin Purple I think it's a 130/360. That should work but, I'm not entirely sure yet. I read that people liked the Speedwerx Red/white 125/340 so I have it installed now. I also bought some of the glide washers for the primary (basically a shift assist kit for the primary) to test but, I know they raise engagement a bit but, I need to do some more testing to see if it helps with shift speed.
So you can't change roller size on Cats, hum? That's what I'd do on my Yamaha right now.
I also read that if you pull out the shift assist kit in the secondary that it may give you a 100 or so RPM up top. I haven't tested to verify yet.
I found more RPM up top with a stiffer secondary spring. The stock orange is 122/285. So, a higher total force spring won't allow the sled shift out as fast and makes your sled rev harder to try to overcome the spring tension. This should give you more RPM up top.
The Fett Brother's Green/white at 198/288 helps a lot and fits like a glove. The first time I tried this spring I was stunned and amazed. My sled all of a sudden felt like a Ferrari in 3rd gear. The acceleration was immediate and impressive which is great for the mountains.
The Skidoo Purple (one long son of a gun) is a 225/300 and I have it installed and it's supposed to work great but, I haven't tested it yet. It doesn't like to fit over the center hub of the helix very well, but it can be done with some work. It's a lot of spring to try to herd into the helix.
Then there's the Straightline silver spring that I hear may be a bit too much (maybe so, maybe no?) but, this puppy should really give us some RPM up top with it's 185/315 spec. I can't wait to try it! This spring also does not like to fit over the center hub of the helix. Some have used a 2 1/8" hole saw to take a small amount of material off the outside of the helix center hub to make the springs fit better. This will leave one a 2" center hub and all springs will fit well. I'm just having a hard time using a super coarse hole saw on a beautifully machined helix. It seems like bad things could happen.
Mine is a 09 153" Sno Pro with the SLP Performance Edition Kit.
I am running 74 Gram MTX weights and with the weight empty I could pull about 7,540-7,840 in Cooke City at 8,500-10,000 feet. My shift speed target is 8,200 RPM. I was leaving a lot on the table.
I am also running a BDX 45/37 degree multi angle helix to try to get just a bit more track speed out of the sled. I'm sure that extra angle of finish on the helix is eating up some RPM.
I got closest here locally (5-7,000 feet) to the mark RPM wise with the SLP Black/Pink 120/340. I also bought a Goodwin Purple I think it's a 130/360. That should work but, I'm not entirely sure yet. I read that people liked the Speedwerx Red/white 125/340 so I have it installed now. I also bought some of the glide washers for the primary (basically a shift assist kit for the primary) to test but, I know they raise engagement a bit but, I need to do some more testing to see if it helps with shift speed.
So you can't change roller size on Cats, hum? That's what I'd do on my Yamaha right now.
I also read that if you pull out the shift assist kit in the secondary that it may give you a 100 or so RPM up top. I haven't tested to verify yet.
I found more RPM up top with a stiffer secondary spring. The stock orange is 122/285. So, a higher total force spring won't allow the sled shift out as fast and makes your sled rev harder to try to overcome the spring tension. This should give you more RPM up top.
The Fett Brother's Green/white at 198/288 helps a lot and fits like a glove. The first time I tried this spring I was stunned and amazed. My sled all of a sudden felt like a Ferrari in 3rd gear. The acceleration was immediate and impressive which is great for the mountains.
The Skidoo Purple (one long son of a gun) is a 225/300 and I have it installed and it's supposed to work great but, I haven't tested it yet. It doesn't like to fit over the center hub of the helix very well, but it can be done with some work. It's a lot of spring to try to herd into the helix.
Then there's the Straightline silver spring that I hear may be a bit too much (maybe so, maybe no?) but, this puppy should really give us some RPM up top with it's 185/315 spec. I can't wait to try it! This spring also does not like to fit over the center hub of the helix. Some have used a 2 1/8" hole saw to take a small amount of material off the outside of the helix center hub to make the springs fit better. This will leave one a 2" center hub and all springs will fit well. I'm just having a hard time using a super coarse hole saw on a beautifully machined helix. It seems like bad things could happen.
Here's my set-up for 8-10,000 ft on a 2010 M8 with an SLP pipe and PCV;
SLP blue/pink primary spring
65-75 grm Cutler wts with no weight added.
Stock secondary with shift assist added (shift assist dropped my rpm by 150-200 from stock).
It pulls hard from bottom to top, and runs just under 8200 rpm on a powder climb at 10,000 ft and closer to 8300 rpm at 8,000 ft.
I tired the 44/36 helix earlier this year and had no luck (I thought SLP recommended the 40/36 helix for a 2010 with their pipe?). Anyway, I couldn't hold the rpms with the 44/36. I haven't tried the 40/36.
SLP blue/pink primary spring
65-75 grm Cutler wts with no weight added.
Stock secondary with shift assist added (shift assist dropped my rpm by 150-200 from stock).
It pulls hard from bottom to top, and runs just under 8200 rpm on a powder climb at 10,000 ft and closer to 8300 rpm at 8,000 ft.
I tired the 44/36 helix earlier this year and had no luck (I thought SLP recommended the 40/36 helix for a 2010 with their pipe?). Anyway, I couldn't hold the rpms with the 44/36. I haven't tried the 40/36.
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Here is my setup on my 09 M8
Slp performance package which is porting, head mod, pipe, and fuel box.
74G MTX with no rivets
160/340 primary spring
44/36 helix with rock rollers
Orange spring in secondary
162 track
I weigh 235 all geared up
I ride 7-10K
At 8500ft mine will pull 8200rpm in a steep climb and backshifts great and it will do this all day long. Frostbite you have the same setup as me so I can't figure out why yours pulls so much lower rpm and backshifts so bad. At 10K mine will still pull more than 8000rpm in a climb. My sled just rips, I guess I got a good one.
Slp performance package which is porting, head mod, pipe, and fuel box.
74G MTX with no rivets
160/340 primary spring
44/36 helix with rock rollers
Orange spring in secondary
162 track
I weigh 235 all geared up
I ride 7-10K
At 8500ft mine will pull 8200rpm in a steep climb and backshifts great and it will do this all day long. Frostbite you have the same setup as me so I can't figure out why yours pulls so much lower rpm and backshifts so bad. At 10K mine will still pull more than 8000rpm in a climb. My sled just rips, I guess I got a good one.
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I think it's the extra degree of helix angle I'm trying to pull.
I will pull 8,200+ somehow. I'm sure I can at 5-7,000 feet anyway. With my extra helix angle, I don't know if I can pull 8,200 RPM with 74 gram weights at over 8,000 feet. I might have to go to a lower helix angle via a shockwave adjustable helix. I don't want to have to drop to 71 gram MTX weights.
I will pull 8,200+ somehow. I'm sure I can at 5-7,000 feet anyway. With my extra helix angle, I don't know if I can pull 8,200 RPM with 74 gram weights at over 8,000 feet. I might have to go to a lower helix angle via a shockwave adjustable helix. I don't want to have to drop to 71 gram MTX weights.
D
dmkhnr
Well-known member
I have never had good results from SLP clutching recomendations.
You guys that have the 10 ho motor. Your getting hung up on the 44 helix and thats why it isn't pulling R's.
Go back to the straight 36. Run the blue/pink, and weight it for the correct rpm. Remember SLP weights are 4# less than what they are stamped, if you have a 71# mtx weight with 1 gram rivet it is actually 68#.
Nosoup is similar to what I run (I have 67# cat light tips at 10k elev). It spikes at 8300 and never pulls below 8040 at this elev.
You guys that have the 10 ho motor. Your getting hung up on the 44 helix and thats why it isn't pulling R's.
Go back to the straight 36. Run the blue/pink, and weight it for the correct rpm. Remember SLP weights are 4# less than what they are stamped, if you have a 71# mtx weight with 1 gram rivet it is actually 68#.
Nosoup is similar to what I run (I have 67# cat light tips at 10k elev). It spikes at 8300 and never pulls below 8040 at this elev.
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Magical helixes to gain track speed usually work very well, once you take them out. I have seen more people buy the hottest thing in multi angle super quick, lightning back shift, better track speed helixes and then wonder why their sled won't run or hold rpm than I can shake a stock helix at. I'm not saying that stock is best for all applications because it isn't always, but small steps in a helix make a big difference. Go back to stock and clutch with stock profile cat weights or cutler adjustables to the correct rpm, and be much happier.
D
Desperado
Well-known member
On my 09 M8 162 with slp single riding from 6 to 8k with 120 340 primary 71g cat lite tip weights, stock 36 secondary helix and stock orange secondary spring, the best I can pull is 7900 at most on a pull. I've tried lighter weights in primary, tried different primary springs, tried the shift assist and NOTHING and I mean nothing has helped my RPMS issue. All clutching setups were done one at a time to see if that change affected things. My rider weight is 240 fully geared, so at least in my case the stock 36 is not helping. I do believe my problem is in the secondary though and most likely will go the frosty route and get a stiffer secondary spring. My other option is going to a torcional (SP) setup such as what RTK or cutlers offers.
I think the "magical" helix idea come from SLPs clutching recommendation chart.
Their instruction chart for their pipes and performance edition kits state the stock 36 degree heilx is "good" but, the 44/36 degree helix is "Best". I tried to copy and paste the chart but, the chart didn't come with the numbers so I deleted them.
dmkhnr, my SLP MTX weights weigh 1 gram less than that stated weight. I have MTX 74 weights weigh 73 grams without rivets. Maybe that's part of my problem with not being able to pull them?
Their instruction chart for their pipes and performance edition kits state the stock 36 degree heilx is "good" but, the 44/36 degree helix is "Best". I tried to copy and paste the chart but, the chart didn't come with the numbers so I deleted them.
dmkhnr, my SLP MTX weights weigh 1 gram less than that stated weight. I have MTX 74 weights weigh 73 grams without rivets. Maybe that's part of my problem with not being able to pull them?
Mine 09 M8 pulls excellent rpm with the 44/36 helix. You are only in the 44 degree part for a short period of time than it goes to the 36. I have ran both the straight 36 and 44/36 and I will never go back to the straight 36. Before I ported my 09 the best I could get out of it was around 7900-8000 but after the porting the engine really came to life and will easily pull 8200rpm. If I ride mine around 7000ft it will hit 8300rpm easy which is to much but I usually ride at 8-10K. SLP's recommendations are about dead on with my M8.
D
dmkhnr
Well-known member
The 10 ho motor and the older m8 sleds are different.
different gearing, different torque curve, different fuel map, different clutching.
My ported m8 will pull 72 gram weights with a stock black/orange spring, and a 38/34 helix at 10k elev.
The 10 ho motor with slp pipe isn't even close to the same clutching setup, and if I threw my older m8 clutch setup at it, I mind as well be riding a m5.
I rode in 30" of fresh today, and the 10 ho ran neck and neck with my mod m8 all day.
The 10 ho is still getting the octane code even after I've added 10 points of fuel at WOT over what slp mapped. I also got the ecu17 code which I have never seen on this 10 sled. The powercommander was a definite mistake.
different gearing, different torque curve, different fuel map, different clutching.
My ported m8 will pull 72 gram weights with a stock black/orange spring, and a 38/34 helix at 10k elev.
The 10 ho motor with slp pipe isn't even close to the same clutching setup, and if I threw my older m8 clutch setup at it, I mind as well be riding a m5.
I rode in 30" of fresh today, and the 10 ho ran neck and neck with my mod m8 all day.
The 10 ho is still getting the octane code even after I've added 10 points of fuel at WOT over what slp mapped. I also got the ecu17 code which I have never seen on this 10 sled. The powercommander was a definite mistake.
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I think the "magical" helix idea come from SLPs clutching recommendation chart.
Their instruction chart for their pipes and performance edition kits state the stock 36 degree heilx is "good" but, the 44/36 degree helix is "Best". I tried to copy and paste the chart but, the chart didn't come with the numbers so I deleted them.
dmkhnr, my SLP MTX weights weigh 1 gram less than that stated weight. I have MTX 74 weights weigh 73 grams without rivets. Maybe that's part of my problem with not being able to pull them?
Frist bite what kinda track speeds you pulling. see the multi angle helix you are only on 44 for short period of time. the sled has no problem with a 44. But when you hit the 36, you can practically feel it, the upshift is stalled as well the track speed. seriously with a pipe this sled should pull 45mph consistant and right now i am getting 40 or less. like i was saying earlier at 7800rpm the sleds speed just stalls.
yea i have the deto sensor kicking off too if i am not about 6-7000. Had to run Octane boost to make it go away. not sure if its just lean on the top end or what. I did get a new fuel map from slp, havent tried it yet.
G
geo
Well-known member
Slp piped 2010 M8, 5000 to 7000.
69 grs light tip Cat wieghts (lightened 70's) and 135 335 D&D white (engages at 3200 and shifts at 8250); 36 deg tortional set-up with Cat red white set at 17 lbs of pull (about 68 deg of twist) and RKT inside spring that adds about 0 to 70 lbs of side force through the shift ( helps hold the belt at static speeds, before it I couldn`t go down to the red-white). Belt temps are very good and track speed is the best I`ve had from any M8 I`ve owned.
SLP PC5 map was changed. Added 10 to 23% from 2750 to 5750 rpm in 2 to 40% throttle ( did it on the stand in the shop by ear, quickly lol, with the computor hooked up) to handle the load of the lower engagement and the load the red-white added. Stock below that, no accel added, back to zero on all the SLP negative numbers, left the -5 in the 8000 to 8300 full throttle but added 10 % at full throttle above that. One change that allowed me to go up to 69 from 68gr was adding 10% fuel at 80% throttle 7500 to 8000 rpm.
That is my loonies worth. This sled completes me LOL.
Next year Polaris just for a change and challenge and maybe less clutch work LOL. Any body want to buy some AC parts LOL.
Good luck fishing this summer!
Geo
69 grs light tip Cat wieghts (lightened 70's) and 135 335 D&D white (engages at 3200 and shifts at 8250); 36 deg tortional set-up with Cat red white set at 17 lbs of pull (about 68 deg of twist) and RKT inside spring that adds about 0 to 70 lbs of side force through the shift ( helps hold the belt at static speeds, before it I couldn`t go down to the red-white). Belt temps are very good and track speed is the best I`ve had from any M8 I`ve owned.
SLP PC5 map was changed. Added 10 to 23% from 2750 to 5750 rpm in 2 to 40% throttle ( did it on the stand in the shop by ear, quickly lol, with the computor hooked up) to handle the load of the lower engagement and the load the red-white added. Stock below that, no accel added, back to zero on all the SLP negative numbers, left the -5 in the 8000 to 8300 full throttle but added 10 % at full throttle above that. One change that allowed me to go up to 69 from 68gr was adding 10% fuel at 80% throttle 7500 to 8000 rpm.
That is my loonies worth. This sled completes me LOL.
Next year Polaris just for a change and challenge and maybe less clutch work LOL. Any body want to buy some AC parts LOL.
Good luck fishing this summer!
Geo
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Have you looked into the PC5 Maps from Racinstation?
All these clutching and mapping issues concern me, I know I only run 0-3000 ft, but I like to at least have a decent starting point to go from. I know Racinstation spends a lot of time working on their mapping, so maybe they could help you.
