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2010 m8 in Colorado new to cat !!!

Y

yetipolaris

New member
So I recently just purchased a 2010 m8 sno pro 153 with 400 miles on it and I am looking at getting a can and Moding it more and more each year. Have been doing a lot of reading of what guys have been doing to the sleds and looks like most guys will do I can first I have already re clutched for the high altitude some people claim you get a bog with a can and some do not. What have you guys seen that works well with the HO motors at high-altitude for gaining some more power, Reliability and weight loss thanks. Sled is all stock as of right now.
 
Yes, get rid of the stock exhaust can but, the 2.6 Powerclaw and the GEO mod will be the mods that yields the most tangible results.
 
Welcome to cat world.

The older m sleds would benefit most from the 2.6 PC track IMO, I wish I had that track on mine when I owned them. If you want some added power with out to much hassle I had the combination of the rk tek head and domes, Kelsey's porting, full jaws pipe, boon docker box, and boyesen reeds, oil delete. Don't need to do all that or could do it in phases but man did it wake that sled up. Clutching and gearing definitely needed fixing. I liked the torsional secondary for the m. I think cutler still makes em. One can find lots of weight to cut also. If you keep an eye on the swapmeets and the net, there's some good deals on quality used m parts for sale. Have fun

Bru
 
SLP can will save u 13# while greatly reducing underhood temps.

I haven't done this but I really believe new skis would help keep snow from being directed toward the exhaust and causing bogging in deep pow. All I can say is I rode with a guy who had USI (correct name?) tunnel skis and he had no bogging while I had much bogging in deep snow.
 
If I had a bone stock m8 in my garage I would do the following in this order:

Verify clutching
2.6 powerclaw
Powder pros
venting
SLP stage III(Ive heard a lot of good things about this kit)
 
Great answer above!

I prefer the SLP SLT skis over powder pro. Keeps the steering a little lighter.
 
What i've done on my 2011:

Already on:
2.6 track IS a must.
Mod Skis and 2" bracket on the pitman arm . It's like putting a power steering!
SLP air horn kit.
Vent kit.
BDX Anti-slop for steering post.(T'ill the original adjustable post!!)
Geo mod.
Super Q can(for the weight lost, not the sound!).
Handle bar and big a.. controls replaced by a Pro-Taper and custom throttle, switches and tether.
Clutching, well, i bought the MDS adjustable weights from Steve who did all the ****ty tuning for me 5 years ago.....and didn't touch it since!


This year mods:
Boyensen reeds(Didn't tried it yet, no snow here!).
SLP High Flow intake kit.
 
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I have a 2010 162 with the following:

SLP air horn
SLP SLT skis
Raptor shocks front and rear
2.6 Powerclaw
Polaris P85 clutch
B and M Fab tube boards
HPS can
Vanamburg rear bumper
Z-Bros A-arms

I don't get to ride near enough but it works very well.
 
Thank you guys I looked up the power claw track looks like that's the track that is already on my sled it's awesome. I found a cheap deal on pipe can and y pipe slp on eBay can I run pipe and can without A programmer. What does the geo mod do exactly? I like the stock intake all of the aftermarket and text don't make any sense for me just looks like it is pouring in hot air from the engine and I don't understand why you would ever want to do that or is it not a big deal on these sleds
 
All I have had befor is carb sleds. What call can I do with out a programmer also do you guys like power pro better then sly dogs?
 
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Can't run the pipe without a controller. I am running y pipe and can without one(forgot y in my list above).
 
All I have had befor is carb sleds. What call can I do with out a programmer also do you guys like power pro better then sly dogs?

I have had powder Pros on 3 M's now and they all seem to love them, in fact I've never heard really anyone disappointed by the powder pros. you said above that your sled already has a powder claw track, which it probably does(2.25inch)...but it does not have the 2.6 powerclaw...which comes on the newer proclimbs. Its an awesome upgrade from the 2.25
 
I didn't reclutch for them. I didn't see anything out of the can and the y just cleaned up throttle response.
 
Thank you guys I looked up the power claw track looks like that's the track that is already on my sled it's awesome. I found a cheap deal on pipe can and y pipe slp on eBay can I run pipe and can without A programmer. What does the geo mod do exactly? I like the stock intake all of the aftermarket and text don't make any sense for me just looks like it is pouring in hot air from the engine and I don't understand why you would ever want to do that or is it not a big deal on these sleds

You've got the 2.25 on the 10 m8. The 2.6 is the poor mans turbo. Do that before you do anything IMO.

The geo mod aka hrp relocation bracket is a set of brackets that raised the mounting point for the rear skid. I liked what it did to the skid. Felt like the sled got up on the snow better. I don't remember the progression in the rear skid if 10 changed that or not.

The stock intake on the m was decent but heavy. I ran the bdx in mine and got rid of all the hood plenum etc. plus I didn't have to worry about my jaws pipe heating up the plenum. Not sure if did much other than cut weight.

If you change y pipe down to the can I'd get a controller and add some fuel at higher rpm is all. If my mods require a controller I like to add in an afr gauge to help tune. That's just me tho. I have found most my cats have ran pretty rich mapping from the factory. It's easy to throw too much fuel at them and lose performance rather than gain.
 
You've got the 2.25 on the 10 m8. The 2.6 is the poor mans turbo. Do that before you do anything IMO.

The geo mod aka hrp relocation bracket is a set of brackets that raised the mounting point for the rear skid. I liked what it did to the skid. Felt like the sled got up on the snow better. I don't remember the progression in the rear skid if 10 changed that or not.

The stock intake on the m was decent but heavy. I ran the bdx in mine and got rid of all the hood plenum etc. plus I didn't have to worry about my jaws pipe heating up the plenum. Not sure if did much other than cut weight.

If you change y pipe down to the can I'd get a controller and add some fuel at higher rpm is all. If my mods require a controller I like to add in an afr gauge to help tune. That's just me tho. I have found most my cats have ran pretty rich mapping from the factory. It's easy to throw too much fuel at them and lose performance rather than gain.

The only problem I have about doing that is I don't have a pc to hook up the programmer 2 only a Mac and from everything I have read says it is not compatible with Mac laptop. The 2.6 track just help in deeper pow or why is it so good. So basically if I do anything but a can I will need to get a programmer.
Thank you for all the good info
 
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I prefer to run an afr gauge and a boondocker box. I like the newer style box that lets you pull some fuel as well as add fuel. No need to lug a PC or Mac around. Just plug and play in the field.

The 2.6 PC is pretty good in deep pow but man does that track hook up on trail and packed snow conditions. I get more spin on trail with my x3. My 2.6 just lifts the skis and grabs like a mo fo. My x3 does better in deep pow tho. The 2.6 is IMO the best all around track made. I've had the 2.5 ce also. Would rather have the 2.6 PC.
 
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