2010 dragon oil consumption?

[jzanc532]

So I have a brand new 2010 dragon, after my first ride, I noticed it was burning what seemed to be a lot more oil then it should. I thought maybe it just burned more in the break in stage. Yesterday when I rode, I burned 10.3 gal of gas and about 2 quarts of oil (this is a guess, they have a 3 quart reservoir right?). Anyways, do they burn more oil at first, or do I need to adjust my oil injection?

 

[sledsnowco]

That seems to be perfect.I wouldn't touch it.Useing a little more oil than normal is a good thing with that motor.

 

[Outlaw525s]

That seems to be perfect.I wouldn't touch it.Useing a little more oil than normal is a good thing with that motor.

Coundnt agree with you more!!

 

[Kraven]

So I have a brand new 2010 dragon, after my first ride, I noticed it was burning what seemed to be a lot more oil then it should. I thought maybe it just burned more in the break in stage. Yesterday when I rode, I burned 10.3 gal of gas and about 2 quarts of oil (this is a guess, they have a 3 quart reservoir right?). Anyways, do they burn more oil at first, or do I need to adjust my oil injection?

2 QTS of oil + 10 gallons fuel = 20:1 Ratio

That's WAT TOO RICH, I.M.O.

Mt 2007 D7 was 37:1 new, 57:1 now, and I'm comfortable with that.

That 20 point reduction required 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the 10mm jam nuts down by the oil pump.

I would recommend adjusting it

 

[MORSNO]

2 QTS of oil + 10 gallons fuel = 20:1 Ratio

That's WAT TOO RICH, I.M.O.

Mt 2007 D7 was 37:1 new, 57:1 now, and I'm comfortable with that.

That 20 point reduction required 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the 10mm jam nuts down by the oil pump.

I would recommend adjusting it

I agree, that is too rich. I burn just under a quart per tank of gas. Still running strong on its 5th season. I would adjust the pump setting.

 

[jzanc532]

Thanks

Thanks everyone for the help. I think I'm going to adjust the ration to about 40:1 to play it safe. One more question, on that adjuster screw, you turn it in (clockwise) to increase the ratio? Thanks again!

 

[Kraven]

Thanks everyone for the help. I think I'm going to adjust the ration to about 40:1 to play it safe. One more question, on that adjuster screw, you turn it in (clockwise) to increase the ratio? Thanks again!

You're going to LOOSEN the (2) 10mm jam nuts that attach the cable to the bracket (at the far right edge of the pic I posted above) to allow the cable to "shorten" up, as you want less oil.

Try going ONE FULL TURN, lock it down and re-test with both tanks full.

 

[theshadowrider]

What do you have to remove to get to these jam nuts, or can you get to them without removing anything?

 

[Kraven]

OIL PUMP RATIO & ADJUSTMENT

What do you have to remove to get to these jam nuts, or can you get to them without removing anything?

It's a P.I.T.A., so the more you can remove it gets easier but that's your call.

I deal with it with removing just the air box, and throttle bodies (leaving cable and lines hooked up) tied up out of the way.

Others go as far as to remove the seat and fuel tank and / or cut down the wrenches.

POLARIS actually sells special wrenches to perform this task

 

[Koog57]

I have a 2010 800 Dragon with a Boondockers pump gas turbo. I use about 3/4 of a tank of oil in one ride. My oil light comes on before I make it home on almost any ride. I have checked my ratio several times and come up with anywhere from 20:1 to 25:1. I have adjusted the oiler once. Does anyone have a picture they could send me of what the oiler arm should look like when it is properly adjusted in the factory position?

 

[Kraven]

OIL PUMP RATIO & ADJUSTMENT

I have a 2010 800 Dragon with a Boondockers pump gas turbo. I use about 3/4 of a tank of oil in one ride. My oil light comes on before I make it home on almost any ride. I have checked my ratio several times and come up with anywhere from 20:1 to 25:1. I have adjusted the oiler once. Does anyone have a picture they could send me of what the oiler arm should look like when it is properly adjusted in the factory position?

The short (1/4" long) on the pump arm @ 3:00 position is suppose to align with the short (1/4") horizontal line on the red dot (protruded boss from the case) as a STARTING POINT.

 

[Koog57]

The short (1/4" long) on the pump arm @ 3:00 position is suppose to align with the short (1/4") horizontal line on the red dot (protruded boss from the case) as a STARTING POINT.

Thank you for the picture. This is very helpful. Is this assumption correct: if the mark is at the 2 o'clock position than that is set to allow less oil? If the mark is at the 4 o'clock position than that is set to allow more oil?

 

[Kraven]

Thank you for the picture. This is very helpful. Is this assumption correct: if the mark is at the 2 o'clock position than that is set to allow less oil? If the mark is at the 4 o'clock position than that is set to allow more oil?

Correct on the towards the 2:00 position allowing less oil

Please keep in mind that you're not going to move the adjuster that much.

For example, on my 2007 D7, 1 1/4 -1 1/2 TURNS on the 10 mm JAM NUTS (located on the cable and bracket at the FAR RIGHT EDGE in the pic posted above) changed my ratio from 37:1 to 57:1

This picture and others are located on my TECH TIPS THREAD under INCREASING YOUR IQ (located at the top of the IQ section ) for future reference.

 

[Koog57]

Here are the before and after pictures since I adjusted the oiler tonight. It was several turns on the nut to even get it this close. It is a pain in the a$$ to adjust. Do this look far enough off to make me run about 20:1?? I have a little more room to adjust. These were taken with a mirror from above.

 

[Kraven]

OIL PUMP RATIO & ADJUSTMENT

Here are the before and after pictures since I adjusted the oiler tonight. It was several turns on the nut to even get it this close. It is a pain in the a$$ to adjust. Do this look far enough off to make me run about 20:1?? I have a little more room to adjust. These were taken with a mirror from above.

It's difficult to say what the ratio was at based on the alignment marks, other than you were definitely on the rich side.

As mentioned earlier, a little movement on the 10 mm adjuster nuts goes a long way, so, don't get too crazy all at 0nce.

1 1/2 turns or so from where you were at, and field check after that , I.M.O.

 

[xc6rider]

I'm going through this tomorrow as well. My indicator arrow is almost 1/4" below the cirlce on the pump. So 3/8's + off of lining up.

One thing to make sure while checking (which i still need to verify).... these lines are to be lined up with all slack out of the throttle cable etc... which means the oil pump alignment marks will begin to move at the same time the throttle plates in the TB's open. So you need to adjust throttle cable slack to your liking first, and then the idle, and then the oil pump. Depending on how much slack you adjust into your throttle, the marks may NOT line up sitting at idle.

And obvioulsy.....anytime you're testing oil consumption and making adjustments, just throw a quart of oil per 10/gal fuel and you will be safely mixed at 40:1 Incase you make too far of adjustment to the lean side.

 

[Polar Express]

Well, I pulled the motor. It's simple enough, and makes the job so much easier.

I think of it this way, the more I pull on the cable, and pull that arm towards the jam nut, the more oil gets pumped in. So, to lean out the oiling ratio, I moved the nuts higher up on the cable housing, and let the housing show more threads on the oil pump side of the bracket. Does this remove any doubt about what direction adds more and what direction adds less oil?


On my 98 700, there were two marks. One was a like a little beak jutting out, the other was a dimple, like a centerpunch. When that motor blew up, I was in a massive hurry to pull it, and figure out why, so I didn't take pics. Dumb me. I had to wait long enough for the new motor, I decide to put some bar risers on for my wife, and thus required a new cable.

anyway, the install was a marathon, lasting late into the night, and when it was time to hook up the oil arm, I now had no reference point. So, I went with the most conservative (most oil) of the marks that were on the arm. She was burning close to 12:1 for that trip. yikes! But, never fouled a plug and ran like a scaleded cat. I just finished pulling the motor to go to the other setting. gonna run premix until I calculate what the ratio is, just to be sure. Oil is cheap compared to a burndown!

PE

 

[Koog57]

If you look at the pictures I posted above of my oiler adjustment arm there is a small triangle protruding from the arm and a punch mark. Which one do I line up with the line on the crank case??? My oiler was originally set at the triangle mark and was running 14:1 and ran like crap. I have oil running out of my pipe and my exhaust valves are a mess. I bought a new oiler thinking mine was bad and when I pulled the old oiler out I noticed the punch mark. Is this what it should have been aligned too in the first place??

 

[xc6rider]

If you look at the pictures I posted above of my oiler adjustment arm there is a small triangle protruding from the arm and a punch mark. Which one do I line up with the line on the crank case??? My oiler was originally set at the triangle mark and was running 14:1 and ran like crap. I have oil running out of my pipe and my exhaust valves are a mess. I bought a new oiler thinking mine was bad and when I pulled the old oiler out I noticed the punch mark. Is this what it should have been aligned too in the first place??

Thanks to Polaris, it depends on what model/year you have. My '10 D8 calls for the pointer (external looking arrowhead) to be lined up with the mark on the oil pump case. NOT lined up sitting at idle though!

These two parts are to be lined up AFTER!!!!... Throttle body opening&&&&Idle is adjusted, and ONLY from this point! Once the slack is pulled from APPLYING throttle (and slack is removed). This means that your throttle bodies are synched, set to open with proper slack, and engine IDLE rpm's are adjusted properly. At this point, you'll see in which point the butterfly's or throttle plates BEGIN to open......is which point the Arrow pointer and oil pump alignment mark are to be matched up/aligned, AND also begin to move off of alignment.




EDIT: And like stated in other previous post's, this is your "starting point." Pre-mix your fuel tank for safety, record usage into a ratio, and make fine adjustments from there. Some guy's have been running very lean around 60:1, but I would recommend going no leaner than 40:1 You're call on that.

I hope that makes sense! Tried to be as descriptive as possible without a picture

 

[Koog57]

I guess I had mine adjusted correctly in the first place then. My oil pump must be faulty. I have a 2010 D8 and after the idle had been set the pointer on the arm was set to line up with the wire on the crank case. I was running about 14:1 at this setting. It didn't matter how far I adjusted it towards the punch mark it didn't make it any leaner.