2010 dragon 155 RMK electrical problems

[900sledhead]

I have a 2010 Polaris dragon that I am having some electrical problems that I need help with. It started with the voltage regulator going bad. The dealer figured that outand replaced it but I still have another problem.
About 6,000 RPM, the check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode. If I run it any where below that RPM, it runs fine. Not too good for climbing... Anyway, I shut it off and restart and it runs fine again, below 6,000 RPM. Also, the reverse only will catch abour 20% of the time, forward or reverse. I found out this weekend that if I go 0 to full throttle, the check engine light does not come on thus no limp mode. If would run fine as long as I held it wide open or went from 0 to WOT quickly. If I feathered the throttle, it went into limp mode. Made for an interesting ride. Also, occassionally when we stopped for a minute, the rpms would slowly drop until about 1,000 then it would stall. I had to open the throttle wide open to restart everytime.
I spent $425 on the last visit to the shop and I am looking for some advice.
Thanks a bunch for anything that will save me some money and get this thing going again.
et

 

[youngrider]

In some intances when the voltage regulator goes out the heat will damage the ECU. I believe some of the symptoms you desrcribe are controled by the ECU. Electronic reverse, possibly rate of fuel injected=(feathering problems). Could be somthing to have checked.

 

[Tuckitaway]

VR and Capacitor problems

My electrical problems started when i took my electric start out (shed 30-40lbs) ldash lights and instrumentation would go out below 3000RPM. Then the head light would go out, then the sled would shut off. Voltage regulator was burnt out (rubber on bottom was bubbly and soft, smelled like burnt electronics). The sled would still run for a few minutes at a time. bought the updated voltage regulator and had the same problems.

I hooked the battery back-up (without e-start system) and the stalling and light issue went away but the problem isn't fixed. If you ride the sled by lagging the throttle along and spend alot of time idling, it will eventually stall again,

i hear the issue is with the capacitor, it doesn't hold enough harge to keep-up with the electrical systems in the sled.

i changed my cluthing as well and now the machine generally runs at higher RPM's than stock. I want to ditch the super heavy battery and run without but haven't figured out how to keep the sled running yet.

just thought i would share some of my similar problems with the same sled 2010 800 dragon 155.

i'll keep an eye on the forum

UPDATE:

A buddy of mine suggested putting the battery back in and monitoring the voltage so i gave it a try. after i I took my headlight out and ran an air intake with one small light bulb from mountain fit hoods. When the light is turned-off, the battery voltage builds and the sled runs fine. When i turn the light on, you can watch the battery slowly drain. I have not had any issues since putting the battery back in (other than the weight of the battery). I'm thinking it must be a capacitor issue at this point???

Problem Not Fixed!!

Battery in or out, the problem is still there gonna try the stator and capacitor this season and a PCV.

 

[St0rm77]

any chance its the throttle position sensor? reverse and weird throttle response would occur if you have a dead spot on the TPS..... just a thought mind you...

 

[jerrydecoy]

If these problems started with the voltage regulator going out I would definitely look at the ecu

 

[754bigbore]

You can check the ECU by removing the screws holding it to the plate, flipping it over and checking for any bubbling in the epoxy. To me it sounds like a TPS has either gone bad or is out of adjustment.

 

[900sledhead]

I got a used TPS from ebay for $20 to try. If it does not solve the problem, it was cheaper than a new one....Thanks

 

[900sledhead]

I am dreading that but it is on my list. $400 for a new one or risk a used one for $200.
Thanks for your reply.

 

[900sledhead]

any chance its the throttle position sensor? reverse and weird throttle response would occur if you have a dead spot on the TPS..... just a thought mind you...

I got a used one from ebay for $20 to try, i agree it is worth a shot.
Thanks
et

 

[St0rm77]

400 beans for a new one?!?! holy toledo, i didn't know that...ouch!

 

[900sledhead]

I have a 2010 Polaris dragon that I am having some electrical problems that I need help with. It started with the voltage regulator going bad. The dealer figured that outand replaced it but I still have another problem.
About 6,000 RPM, the check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode. If I run it any where below that RPM, it runs fine. Not too good for climbing... Anyway, I shut it off and restart and it runs fine again, below 6,000 RPM. Also, the reverse only will catch abour 20% of the time, forward or reverse. I found out this weekend that if I go 0 to full throttle, the check engine light does not come on thus no limp mode. If would run fine as long as I held it wide open or went from 0 to WOT quickly. If I feathered the throttle, it went into limp mode. Made for an interesting ride. Also, occassionally when we stopped for a minute, the rpms would slowly drop until about 1,000 then it would stall. I had to open the throttle wide open to restart everytime.
I spent $425 on the last visit to the shop and I am looking for some advice.
Thanks a bunch for anything that will save me some money and get this thing going again.
et

Well, here is what I found out. The dealer pulled the engine apart and the pistons were scored like I have read about on this forum. They wanted $2,500 for the basic repair but I opted to fix it myself. I bought the "repair kit" ($425)which is a 3/8" spacer plate and longer Wisco pistons and rebuilt the motor. While I had it out, I put in a used TPS. The things runs like brand new. All the issues are gone. I never noticed it before but with the longer and tighter pistons, the engine is noticebly quieter.
I think the TPS was the source of the problem to begin with but the rings were almost seized up so the rebuild was in order.

 

[Boondocker82]

$425 for the fix kit? Where'd ya score that one? Just put it in mine and it was $615

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

 

[900sledhead]

$425 for the fix kit? Where'd ya score that one? Just put it in mine and it was $615

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

Reply,

Doctor crankshaft on e-bay. I did a lot of checking around and this was the best price. I Knew the quality of the Wiseco pistons so I was ok with that. Running good but time and a few thousand miles will tell the whole story, stay tuned.
Everett