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2009 rmk 700 dealer can't even fix it...

Hey guys ! First I would like to thank anyone who helps me with my frustrating issue...


Bought a 2009 RMK 700 last spring... Went for a ride and had a top end dead spot to it... Everytime I tried to full throttle it hits a dead spot... Goes up to full RPM 8150 at 3/4 throttle. But when I pin it to the handle bar it hits a dead spot and RPM comes crashing down.

Here is what I have done to try to fix this issue yet...



Through the summer I rebuilt the the top end to new pistons

Had VForce Reeds in there, put back the stock ones, they are not new but still sealing good. Changed the back throttle body rubber boot

1. Put in new gas filter

2. Brought it to the dealer so he could try to set my TPS. HE tried it with a special tool with a voltimeter and a 12 volt battery. Without starting it and going on the gas slowly it read like, 1.01,2.02,3.04 then came 4.02 but came crashing at 0.40 at full throttle... He got the sled to come back to normal idle which is 1750. Cause it would not come down. Before it was idling 2300 to 2400.

3. He put in a new clutch spring new weights cause the ones in there the 10-64 where for 2000 feet and more so put 10-66 weights for sea level to 2000 feet...

4. He cleaned ther Powervalves and tested my Power Valve solenoid and it tested ok.

5. Put in fresh 91 Octane gas... Ethanol Plugs are un plugged.

6. Got Sinto Performa Synthetic Oil...

7. Fresh Prestone cooler...

Got it back from ther dealer and the sled is still having a dead spot near full throttle...

What is there left to check ? You guys that had this issue what have you done to fix it ? Cause I can't spend another $600 at the dealer...

Thanks again for the help !
 
Can you check the tips with no voltage and see if the resistance changes with throttle position and then hits an open. If you have a voltmeter at home you might just be able to clip onto the pins of the tips and do a check yourself before you bring it to a dealer.

Making JIS screws into junk
 
Can you check the tips with no voltage and see if the resistance changes with throttle position and then hits an open. If you have a voltmeter at home you might just be able to clip onto the pins of the tips and do a check yourself before you bring it to a dealer.

Making JIS screws into junk

I'm sorry but what is tips ?
 
Anyways I'll buy a new TPS, get it to spec and then try it out ! I'm just confused because the dealer told me my TPS was in great shape and I saw on his Voltimeter that it had a high end stumble... Then the service guy kicked me out of the garage... That was pretty odd...
 
The TPS (throttle position sensor) has to read progressively low to high or high to low
If they stumble at all they are bad so a reading of 1.02 1.03 1.01 1.00 .40 is bad its just like counting 1 2 3 4 5 , 5 being wot so the .40 is bad the ECM thinks you just closed the throttle no fuel BOG
 
Tps is bad it should not drop at full throttle if it does it's telling the ecm that your letting off the throttle when your actually at full throttle. Do you have a way of testing the tps on your own?
 
Tps is bad it should not drop at full throttle if it does it's telling the ecm that your letting off the throttle when your actually at full throttle. Do you have a way of testing the tps on your own?

No I don't... I guess I'll be buying one on Ebay... I tested it with the dealer and for some funny reason he believes my TPS is ok... Probably wants to make me buy all sorts of parts I don't really need...

I'll buy a new TPS when I get the tool from EBAY... I got screwed bad at the stealership... Even contacted Polaris headoffice and there like, -

-Well can't you go to another dealer ???

I got so pissed I hung up the phone...
 
oh did your DLR lube you up good B4 he FRACKED you ?

Yeah he did... It's the last time I ever go to a dealer... He says to me,

-Well since the shop reopened with the new owner, you are actually the first IQ sled we have ever worked on.

Then he says,

-Too bad you came to get your machine cause we where so close on finding your issue... S.O.B... Yeah I am sucker and I'll keep giving you my money.
 
Anyways I'll buy a new TPS, get it to spec and then try it out ! I'm just confused because the dealer told me my TPS was in great shape and I saw on his Voltimeter that it had a high end stumble... Then the service guy kicked me out of the garage... That was pretty odd...

FYI..... Most quality meters are AUTO ranging, meaning you dont have to select a range of voltage that your going to measure. The first range on most meters is 0-4 volts. When you are slowly checking a 5volt signal on one of these meters your going to see the meter change ranges when you pass the 4.0 volt mark and its going to look like something dropped out.

I'm not saying thats what happened, just informing you that could be what you seen happen.

Also, If you truly want to check it correctly, you need to do it on a graphing lab scope, not with a DVOM. Eric
 
TPS... Dont let it intimidate you.

As said above... The TPS sounds like the most likely culprit.

IMO... most careful owners with some mechanical abilities will do a better job than many of the dealers that need to rush through the process to keep jobs flowing through the shop and keep the lights on.

As Eric (SRX) above points out... there are precise ways to calibrate the TPS... and that back probing using the sleds own ECU to power it up is the best... and most people have had very respectable results using the TPS tester from EBAY and a "decent" meter.... A Fluke brand meter is best if you can borrow one... but heck... get that thing running with what you have available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-or-Arctic-Cat-Tps-adjustment-tool-or-test-pigtail-/281234166843
s-l400.jpg


For me... I do an initial check with my old Simpson analog meter (the kind with a needle-pointer type readout on it). On the ohm scale, connect it to the TPS and check for smooth, continuous motion as I slowly move the throttle through its motions... if that has any dead spots or strange jumps... I know the TPS is bad right there. NOTE: this is a preliminary test and not a definitive diagnosis of a bad TPS as there are other things that can make it bad.

Also... moisture in the TPS socket or dielectric grease put in there by the mechanic can cause issues.
See this thread: CLICK HERE
Please read BOTH pages as there is relevant info on both... the connector internals are the same for the TPS all the way back to your sled.

If you have mechanical abilities... the TPS is easy to install and calibrate...

You should be aware, the BASELINE measurement is the most critical to do.

If you have the ability... pull the air box and the throttle bodies and do the TPS Change, baseline and idle settings with the throttle body assembly on the bench... makes things easier IMO.



.
 
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Also... Very important... check the condition of the wires going into the TPS and the connector for the TPS.





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Most likely the tps but make sure before replacing it that your throttle cable is not adjusted up to tight. This can also cause that issue.
 
Most likely the tps but make sure before replacing it that your throttle cable is not adjusted up to tight. This can also cause that issue.

When this happened the sled wouldn't come back down to idle... Now it does...

The question here is why is the Voltmeter stumbling back down at the very same place I am having a full throttle dead spot ? Example...

1.30V, 2.30V, 3.30V, 4.30V, then Full throttle 0.35V = *The Dead Spot* ?

I've checked clutches new primary spring and sea level weights, belt deflection is perfect. Even the dealer doesn't know what to do anymore... I am still 95% sure it has to do with my TPS.

When I'll get richer i'll buy the tool and the new TPS and try it out.
 
FYI..... Most quality meters are AUTO ranging, meaning you dont have to select a range of voltage that your going to measure. The first range on most meters is 0-4 volts. When you are slowly checking a 5volt signal on one of these meters your going to see the meter change ranges when you pass the 4.0 volt mark and its going to look like something dropped out.

I'm not saying thats what happened, just informing you that could be what you seen happen.

Also, If you truly want to check it correctly, you need to do it on a graphing lab scope, not with a DVOM. Eric


Well the dead spot occurs at the same spot the Voltmeter drops... What is the Voltage spec for a CFI 2009 RMK 700 at WOT on the TPS ?
 
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