2009 RMK 600 Air Box Removal?

[SaskRMK]

I have done some searches and still don't understand how to remove my air box. From my understanding you just remove the rubber strap as well as the sensors/fuel lines connected to the side and then it just pops backwards and up. Is there something i am missing? do the band clamps on the throttle bodies need to be undone? Some one please fill me in on what i'm missing out on here because i am unable to remove it.

Thanks in advance

 

[ktkaelin]

Not sure if the 09 600 is the same as the 09 800 but you do have to loosen the clamp around the boot on the throttle body between the air box and throttle body. After that it takes alittle"jimmying" around to get it out. I used alittle pry bar to gently work the boot off the throttle body. When i went to reinstall the air box, i added just a bit of grease around the inside off the boot so it would be easier to slide on. Hope this helps

Kraig

 

[SaskRMK]

I can imagine it would be the same for my engine. Those bands clamps seem like they are going to be VERY hard to get at. I realized there are a few holes in the alum by the clutches in order to get a screwdriver at the proper angle to under those clamps so hopefully i am able to get them undone in a timely manner.

Thanks!

 

[ktkaelin]

Ya, they're a pain, tho you can use a 1/4 in socket for those clamps and it seems to go better. I took off all the electronics and clutch cover to get to it all. Knowing now, after i did all that and saw the clamps and the holes in the cover it probably wouldn't have taken so long. All that just to get to the oiler.......but thats a whole other topic, thanks to my dealer!!!!(They don't seem to know how to route the oiler cable so when i turned my oiler cable hit the post, loosened and went fully open!!) Sorry, had too

 

[SaskRMK]

I am actually pulling my air box to replace my throttle cable so i will need access to the oilier as well. What do you suggest to do in order to route and replace the cable that runs to the oil linkage? what HAS to be removed?

thanks

 

[ktkaelin]

You may now all this but i will throw it out there!
I removed airbox, clutch cover, throttle body's(just enough to get out of the way and tied them to the steering post), and secondary clutch. Not sure all is necessary, but made more room for sure. The jamb nuts are hard to see but they are 10mm wrench. Loosen those and the one closest to the oiler needs to be undone all the way. Pull back on the cable housing to remove from the bracket. The bracket will have a slit in it for the cable to slid out. Now the fun part, getting the cable end out of the oiler arm/bracket. Its just like the gen II's, there is also a slit in the arm for the cable to slid out, a big pain and it takes a steady hand and patience. As far as routing, try to make a note of how it comes out. Mine from the dealer was outside the fuel rail and it hit the steering post and loosened the jamb nuts, it needs to be in between the fuel rail and the bottom of the cylinder/top of the crank case. Then make sure your oiler marks are aligned after putting on the new cable on(do that by adjusting the jamb nuts). It took alot of patience and a few beers but it is possible!!! Thank you polaris for making things soooooo easy!!
Hope this helps, it may sound confusing, but others can chime in on an easier way if there is one.

Kraig

 

[diamonddave]

24" phillps screwdriver makes it a breeze.

 

[SaskRMK]

Well i made some progress this evening by removing the airbox as well as the clutch cover but still do not understand the easiest way to access the Oiler. Would you suggest pulling the clutch for ease of access? Do i need a special tool to do this? Must i remove the throttle bodies? I honestly cant see anything in regards to the oiler at this point so all help would be appreciated. Earlier this season i had some puddling in my engine bay of fresh oil but the reservoir never went down, over the past few days i have noticed a puddle under my sled but the reservoir level still stays intact. The leak seams to be coming from the Right hand side of the sled and leaking under the chain case/Can area. Would the removal of the throttle bodies also make this easier to pin point?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[jcrjet]

Maybe your chaincase is leaking. I had the same problem on two of my iq's. Plastic cover has a mfg recall, the dealer will retrofit a metal bracket on top of the plastic cover. Or, just buy the aftermarket billet cover.

 

[SaskRMK]

My chaincase level has yet to drop and the fluid is darker in the reservoir. the amount of fluid on the ground is excess off what the chaincase could hold. Once the throttle boddies are removed is it easy to access all oil lines to pin point a leak?

 

[ktkaelin]

You also might check the exhaust? I would have some oil come out of the exhaust after riding on a day where my sled got loaded up or ran rich and i wasn't able to clear it out. I came to that conclusion after i put a small piece of cardboard directly under the exhaust where it exits the belly pan, sure enough the next day it was right below the exhaust. Not sure if there is a solution for this but alittle too much oil in those engines is way better then the alternative!!!

 

[SaskRMK]

well i actually had to zip tie my throttle cables back together to get 30km back to the truck from the silvermines in golden last week so i was over oiling the entire time. would it be normal for the oil to be completely clean? usually excess oil coming from the exaust is as black as diesel oil!

 

[diamonddave]

Why did you have to zip tie your cables for 30 KM? This might be helpful to hear why this had to happen? Remove your throttle bodies to get (somewhat) access to your oil pump.

To adjust, you need 2 stubby (short) 10mm wrenches or Polaris makes a special tool for this but sometimes if the adjuster nuts have been loctited, it's easier to just remove the motor for easy access.

 

[ktkaelin]

Correct, the oil i had comeing out was black as black can get!! You will definitly need to do some investigating once you are in there elbow deep for a leaky oil line if it looks like new oil on the floor. Good luck

Diamonddave....still in depressionville???? Hills look pretty white from my house!!!!

 

[diamonddave]

Diamonddave....still in depressionville???? Hills look pretty white from my house!!!!

I'm scared to remove that for fear of snowless depressionville returning. Superstitious

 

[SaskRMK]

Lots of progress tonight i have removed the throttle bodies, as well as the reeds and now have access to the oiler cable. I definetly have an oil leak near the oiler because because there is no oil in the line from the filter to the oiler and no oil leaking above the filter or on the filter. Would this most likely be the band clamp area on the oil the oiler or could the entire pump have some sort of leak? its pretty much impossible to tell at this point because absolutely everything is covered in oil.

few questions!

-What should i clean my reeds with and should i re oil them?
-I have noticed they use grease to seat the injectors, could i just use a little VES gold instead?

I have also notice that the underside of two sections of my reeds are lightly chipped. Whats your opinion on this? should i replace with the oem boyesen replacements parts? would anyone suggest carbon tech reeds in my stock cage? All i hear is that the V force reeds crack very quickly because they operate dry but they do have them in stock at the shop right now!

Any other tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated

thanks in advance guys!

 

[SaskRMK]

Why did you have to zip tie your cables for 30 KM? This might be helpful to hear why this had to happen? Remove your throttle bodies to get (somewhat) access to your oil pump.

To adjust, you need 2 stubby (short) 10mm wrenches or Polaris makes a special tool for this but sometimes if the adjuster nuts have been loctited, it's easier to just remove the motor for easy access.

Because I snapped the cable right at the 2-1 convert after catching it on a branch and had no choice but to limp my sled out of the mountains because i didn't want to have to spend the money on a helicopter ride out. The area we were riding in had a serious climb to enter and there was no possible way of towing my sled up the climb to get out.

 

[SaskRMK]

Little progress this evening i was able to replace the oil feed line that i had suspected of being the leaky.I am unable to figure out how to re attache the oiler cable back to the oiler arm. I remember taking it out was a bit of a puzzle but i fought it for half an hour and was unable to get it back into the arm. Do you pull the sphere on the end of the cable through the slit and then weave it through the arm? Pictures for reference(have yet to put the oiler line/oiler cable shrouds back on)

 

[ktkaelin]

If you take your oiler arm and push it down, you need to take your oiler cable from below and fish the plastic pin threw the slot in the arm. Big pain, but the arm needs to be pointing down to get the cable in. The plastic pin goes from the front pointing back.

 

[SaskRMK]

I psyched myself out and thought this was a lot harder than it actually was! Got my throttle/oiler cables back in and matched the thread count to the original cables, new oil feed line and new reeds. does one have to bleed all of the air out of the oil feed lines? how would you go about doing this?

Just have to reinstall my throttle bodies and air box at this point.