The sealed bearing is the one BDX sent me
2009-2011 Diamond Drive Bearing Failure
- Thread starter RickM
- Start date
Getting ready to do mine,
How much of a interference is there between the bearing and shaft. Does this require a full blown press, if so I need to pack mine along.
How much of a interference is there between the bearing and shaft. Does this require a full blown press, if so I need to pack mine along.
A bearing puller is needed to get the old one off, but I was able to tap the new one on easily with a hammer and a socket
Thats what I figured, Thanks
So whats our verdict on this? Sealed or non sealed bearing... Can this bearing get lubricated by the DD oil in the case? Putting a sealed bearing inside a gear case you have the risk of the oil getting in, and washing the grease out, but not having great splash lubricity with the seals in place. Obviously theres variables, just looking for a 100% sure answer here. Thanks guys
Brian
Brian
Well in many ways it makes sense. The high rpm and centrifical force will keep fluid out of a open bearing. Unlike say a auto trans, theres no pump to direct fluid to the critical parts.
Is it perfect, yeah no..............could I do it better for the same cost..........yeah no
Is it perfect, yeah no..............could I do it better for the same cost..........yeah no
Apples to oranges, but splash lubrication is used in lots of stuff, that spins quickly. Rear diffs, transfer cases, most all standard transmissions etc. That is why i ask about the sealed vs non sealed...
W
websledder
Member
Changed Mine Tonight
Glad that is over... given I am mechanically challenged! LOL. Sealed bearing, used a puller to get the old one off. Had a bit of a time getting the new one on, tapped in in aggressively then had issues getting the cover and gear back in - turned out I had dislodged the gear in its seat in the cover when I tapped the new bearing in. Called the neighbour in, he banged in a few times to seat it better and we got it in. Torque the cover screws to 12 ft lbs/ 144 in lbs.
The oil was quite dirty which surprised me as I had only put 600 miles on. Seemed to have a water stain like other people in the post have described (water ingress via the secondary spline I think).
I did not remove the DD. Elected to just take the cover off. Turns out the two bottom bolts are tough to get at but if you look underneath the portion of the bellypan directly under the DD is held with more bolts - just undo and pry and you will have enough room to get a ratchet in there. Also need to remove an aluminum plate held with four screws that covers the very top of the cover. No biggie.
Have fun (hope mine does not blow UP!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Glad that is over... given I am mechanically challenged! LOL. Sealed bearing, used a puller to get the old one off. Had a bit of a time getting the new one on, tapped in in aggressively then had issues getting the cover and gear back in - turned out I had dislodged the gear in its seat in the cover when I tapped the new bearing in. Called the neighbour in, he banged in a few times to seat it better and we got it in. Torque the cover screws to 12 ft lbs/ 144 in lbs.
The oil was quite dirty which surprised me as I had only put 600 miles on. Seemed to have a water stain like other people in the post have described (water ingress via the secondary spline I think).
I did not remove the DD. Elected to just take the cover off. Turns out the two bottom bolts are tough to get at but if you look underneath the portion of the bellypan directly under the DD is held with more bolts - just undo and pry and you will have enough room to get a ratchet in there. Also need to remove an aluminum plate held with four screws that covers the very top of the cover. No biggie.
Have fun (hope mine does not blow UP!!!!!!!!!!!!)
call them, there were real good and knew exactley what i was talking about. got it shipped out quickly
After reading this entire thread I'm still unclear as to weather I need to change this bearing on my 2010 "ZERO" mile HCR???
Sounds like it doesn't fit?
Sounds like it doesn't fit?
I'll email Jeff at BDX and find out about the 2010. He was supposed to dig into one this week and see why the double row wouldn't fit...
I contacted BDX today and they told me to remove the DD from the frame and see if I can get the cases to close. So I tried this and the cases still wouldn't close with the double row bearing. So I took a micrometer to the double row and the stock w/spacer bearing. The double row is 5 hundredths wider then the stock bearing w/spacer. I had no problems installing the double row in my 2009 M1000 so I wonder if the case has changed for 2010... Anyone else tried installing a double row bearing in a 2010 DD???? If you haven't please give it a try and let us know so I can see if I'm going crazy..
I found my stock bearing/spacer out of my 2009 M1000 and the spacer is thicker than the 2010 stock spacer thus allowing more space thus allowing the double row to fit in the 2009 models. So they had to have changed something up in the DD in 2010. I'm by no means a DD expert so if someone else with a 2010 wants to take a look and see where I'm coming from that would be great....
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